Articles

Knitting Domino Squares

Knitting Counters Chain Style

Learn just how easy it is to take the mystery out of mitering. Follow our simple rules and helpful instructions for success. iters arc usually worked in knitwear to produce a slope, either inside the fabric or at the edges of two pieces that are later joined together. For example, we use miters in V necks or for the corners produced for square necklines, socks, cardigan bands, shawls, blankets, or afghans,glove and mitten fourchettes, hat crowns, and so many more projects. Miters are made by...

The four main types of transfer stitches

Loop Transfer Bed Knitting Machine

There are four main types of transfer stitches 1 Plain needle loop transfer stitches, produced by transference of a loop from one needle to another in the same bed. 2 Fancy lacing stitches, produced by modification of the plain loop stitch. 3 Rib loop transfer stitches, produced by transferring a loop from one needle bed to the other. 4 Sinker loop transfer stitches Needle loop transfer on plain fabric is most commonly achieved on straight bar frames using specially-shaped, rackably-controlled...

How To Attach A Patch Pocket

Straight Pocket Pocket Knit

Knit and block the pocket you want to sew on. The sample here is a 4-inch square. Have ready a tapestry needle, straight pins, and yarn to sew the pocket. 1 Pin the pocket in place exactly where you want it to be and thread a tapestry needle with the appropriate yarn. 2 Insert the tapestry needle from back to front through both the knitting and the upper-right corner of the pocket. Loop the yarn around from front to back to front once more to reinforce the corner. 3 Sew on the pocket as shown,...

Dialcylinder Knitting Machines

Recorder Chart Paper Sentinel Rototherm

On dial-cylinder circular knitting machines the cylinder is considered the front needle-bed while the dial is considered the rear needle-bed. Both needle-beds feature grooves guiding the needle movements. The needles used for dial-cylinder circular knitting machines are mainly latch needles some manufacturers however use compound needles. Large-diameter dial-cylinder knitting machines can be divided into different categories according to the knitted good they manufacture - circular knitting...

The Best Yarns For Felting

The best yarns for felting are 100 wool or other animal fibers, such as alpaca, angora, mohair, and llama. You can also try using blends of these fibers. (Superwash wools have been treated so that they will not shrink, so don't use them.) Synthetics are not good felters, but you can try to felt a wool synthetic blend, as long as it isn't more than 10 -15 synthetic. Fibers that have been bleached, such as bright whites, and bright colors that have been treated with bleach to take the dye are...

Two Drop Stitch Patterns Drop Stitch Honeycomb and Parenthetical

Knitting Rib Patterns

Patterns of this kind tend to scare the novice knitter, who often labors under an impression that a dropped stitch is a catastrophe. But a little practice with these patterns will demonstrate that it is a legitimate knitting technique that can be fun to use. above Drop-Stitch Honeycomb bf.i.ow Parenthetical Rib above Drop-Stitch Honeycomb bf.i.ow Parenthetical Rib The usual fear is that the dropped stitch will unravel too far. Actually it is much less prone to do this than the beginner might...

How To Make A Sweater Frog Closure

Make Your Own Frog Closure

All kinds of commercial buttons work with frog closures, and many of the buttons in this book will work, as writ. Knotted braid buttons see pp. 56-61 and beads are the most traditional buttons used with frog closures. But be creative A variety of objects can Ik sewn or tied onto a garment. 1 once saw a twig used for a button with a free-form frog. The frogs in this chapter can be made wuh a variety of kraids, cords, or fabrics. The stiffness of the material determines the style of frog gt u can...

How To Sew Pocket Lining To Knit Sweater

Cast Stitch Round Loom

Sew the open stitches oi the hem to the body by inserting a sewing needle into part of one body stitch to prevent the stitching from showing on the right side and through one stitch on the hem as shown. Keep the hem even by sewing through stitches along the same horizontal row of the sweater. You must work rapid increases on either side of the neck opening. Mark the three corner stitches. Work a make one increase on either s de of these stitches on every round. This will allow the hem to lie...

Slip stitch and passing slip stitch over

Pass Slip Stitch Over

There are several ways to vary the basic knit and purl stitches for decorative purposes. These variations include slip stitch, passing slipped stitch over, yarn over, long stitch, and crossed stitch. This variation of knit and purl slipped stitches is used to decrease number of stitches. The method may differ from slip stitches above in how stitch is slipped onto right needle. When you knit, your yarn stays in back of the work when you purl, it stays in front. 2 Pass slip stitch over double...

Knitting or Knotless Netting

Dating the first knitted fabrics presents basic difficulties. Let us discard the undocumented conjectures about the knitted and not sewn robe of Christ mentioned in the Bible, or the reference to Penelope as a knitting woman. The oldest relics of the history of knitting are the socks and other small items of Coptic origin from the first centuries A. D. Nevertheless, D. K. Burnham has established on the basis of technological analysis that the collection of Coptic relics kept in the Royal...

The Stoll CAD pattern preparation system

Technical Data Stoll

The Stoll SIRIX is a complete design, patterning and programming system originally specially developed from Apple II PC software. It caters for every application in V-bed flat knitting. It uses icons and windows to graphically support the generation and development of knitting programmes for Stoll CMS electronic flat machines. SIRIX has a hierarchy of files holding folders. These can be opened by a double click of the mouse on an icon. It simplifies pattern drafting and speeds-up the processes...

Automatic toe closing on the knitting machine

Many novel methods have been devised for closing toes during the knitting operation. Generally, they have been restricted to single-cylinder sock machines, in coarser gauges, and not double-cylinder sock machines or seamless stocking and tights machines. They have achieved only limited success against conventional toe closing during post-knitting operations where automated seaming and handling techniques have considerably reduced labour content, time, and costs involved. The main disadvantages...

The RTR garmentlength machine

Interlock Knitting Stitch

This fully-automatic garment-length rib machine was introduced in 1938 by Wildt Mellor Bromley as a replacement for their RSB model of 1936, which had no facilities for rib loop transfer. Its anti-clockwise revolving cylinder and dial cam-box has cam sections of equal size whether they are for knitting feeders or rib loop transfer. A unit set in advance of the section can select the cylinder needles for the knitting or transfer action. The original RTR has six cam sections, four for knitting 2...

Typical structures knitted on flat machines

Sweater Full Cardigan Racked

Cardigan stitches are two-course repeat tuck rib knitwear structures, widely used in the body sections of heavy-weight stitch-shaped sweaters. The tuck stitches cause the rib wales to gape apart so that the body width spreads outwards to a greater extent than the rib border. The tuck loops increase the fabric thickness and make it heavier in weight and bulkier in handle, although the rate of production in rows of loops will be less than for normal 1 x 1 or 2 x 2 rib. The greater the proportion...

Integral garment knitting

An integral garment is one whose various parts have been knitted and knit-assembled by the knitting machine. It thus requires minimal make-up attention on leaving the knitting machine. Integral garment knitting lowers make-up costs including cutting , shortens throughput times, reduces work in progress and provides the opportunity to introduce new styling features. The knitting machines, however, are more complex and expensive and may be more restrictive in their operation and patterning scope....

Diamond Eyelet Pattern

Diamond Eyelets Knitting

This lovely eyelet pattern could be called a type of lace. But note that the openings are divided not by a single strand, but Row 1 Right side K2, yo, ssk, kl, k2 tog, yo twice, ssk rep from to last 5 sts, kl, k2 tog, yo, k2. Row 2 and all other wrong-side rows Purl. Throughout rows 2 and 10, purl into the front and back of every yo twice of previous row. Row 3 K2, k2 tog, yo, k6, yo, ssk rep from , end k2. Row 5 K3, k2 tog, yo, k4, yo, ssk, k2 rep from , end kl. Row 7 K4, k2 tog, yo, k2, yo,...

Takedown and Winding Motions

Feeder Dubied Machine

The fabric take-down and winding motions have been designed to facilitate stitch knock-over and fabric take-down procedures. The take-down and winding functions are kept separated in order to allow a smooth running of the machine and avoid possible fabric distortions. The take-down motion consists of 2 or 3 rollers placed beneath the cylinder. In the simplest system configuration i.e. the two-roller the fabric passes between two rollers that stretch it by rotating in opposite directions....

Individual stitch selection

Knit Tuck Float

Individual stitch selection is the most versatile and widely-employed method of knitting designs in colour, or different types of stitches in self-colour. It is based on the relative positioning of an element during a knitting cycle determining which stitch, from a choice of two or more, is produced in its corresponding wale at a particular feeder course of a machine revolution or traverse. Latch needle weft knitting machines are especially suitable because their individually tricked and butted...

The Whole Garment knitting technique

Shima Seiki launched their patented WholeGarment technique at ITMA'95 with two different V-bed models, each having unique features. These involve integrally and seamlessly knitting a complete tubular garment on a V-bed rib machine. A new feature of this technique is the ability to knit tubular rib with a high wale density and therefore improved extensibility and appearance. WholeGarment knitting removes or reduces the need for subsequent making-up and in some cases cutting operations,...

Calculate The Fashioning Sequence For A Kintted Panel

Integral Knitted Garments

Fig. 16.9 Integrally shaped rib garment pieces. The machine has an additional bed containing the transfer points Shima Seiki . 2 Convert the width dimensions at the start of each section to total numbers of needles by multiplying the width measurement by wpi. Thus, 16 x 16 256 18 x 16 288 8 x 16 128 needles. 3 Calculate the total number of needles increased or decreased from one section to another by taking one total from the next. 4 Divide the totals obtained by 2 in order to obtain the...

Adjusting Sleeve Length

Teach Yourself Magic

One way to lengthen a sleeve is to simply knit a longer cuff. By the same token, knitting a shorter cuff, or omitting the cuff altogether, is an easy way to shorten a sleeve. To add length to a sleeve above the cuff, you use your row gauge to determine how many additional rows are needed to reach the desired length and then work those additional rows, evenly spaced, between increase rows. To subtract length above the cuff, you use your row gauge to determine how many rows need to be eliminated...

The Mayer Jacquardtronic multibar lace raschels

Machine Textronic

The traditional mechanical verdol jacquard control, previously described, is slow, cumbersome and time-consuming when changing designs. On the latest electronic machines, the jacquard head has been replaced by a computer control that is simply linked by a cable to the combined selection element and jacquard guide, which are one unit. There are no jacquard harness cords for lifting and guide displacement which would restrict the use of the conventional guide bar swinging movement. At first, Karl...

French Toe Socks Patterns

A French Toe is worked over a relatively few number of rounds work the foot for a few more rounds before you begin this type of toe. This toe is used on the Yarrow Ribbed Sock page 28 . Begin by dividing the stitches equally among 3 needles so that the center stitch of the bottom of the foot is the first stitch on needle 1. Decrease as follows Rnd 1 On needle 1, kl, sl 1, kl, psso, knit to last 3 sts on needle, k2tog, kl rep from for needles 2 and 3 6 sts decreased. Rnd 2 Knit. Repeat Rnds 1...

Cloverleaf Eyelet

Eyelet Cable Stitch

Left Cloverleaf Eyelet Rib right Cloverleaf Eyelet Cable left Cloverleaf Eyelet Rib right Cloverleaf Eyelet Cable The Cloverleaf Eyelet is beautifully adapted to vertical patterns, such as the Cloverleaf Eyelet Rib and Cloverleaf Eyelet Cable. In this Rib variation, the pattern could be widened by working on a multiple of 7 sts plus 2, inserting 2 purl sts between ribs instead of one. Rows 1, 3, and 5 Wrong side Kl, p5, kl rep from . Row 2 Pi, kl, yo, si 1 k2 tog psso, yo, kl, pi rep from . Row...

Highbutt Needles and Lowbutt Needles

Butt Needles

The latch needle can have two different butt heights which make it a high-butt needle or a low-butt needle picture 27 . The assembly of high-butt needles and low-butt needles on the knitting machine allows different selection and different manufacturing work ways, according to the positions of the tucking and looping cams picture 28 . Picture 28 - The different positions of the raising cam

Mecmor Variatex machines

The Mecmor Variatex machines are a range of circular cylinder and dial, garment-length machines that knit garment-lengths in open-width on 300 degrees of the machine's circumference. The revolving cam-box model '180' has a diameter of 28 inches, providing a maximum knitting width of 70 inches 180 cm . The remainder of the machine's periphery consists of a command sector containing a multi-track Mylar film loop with insertable plastic studs and a master control drum to control each knitting or...

Great Grandmothers Edging

Cockleshells Knitting Pattern

This is the edging that goes with the famous antique bedspread pattern called Great-Grandmother's Bedspread, otherwise known as The Garden-Plot Square. The bedspread is knitted in squares, each square being worked diagonally from one corner to the opposite corner, with a single embossed leaf at ihe start and a row of embossed leaves across the widest diagonal. The squares are sewn or crocheted together with four of the single leaves adjoining, and thus can be made any size, depending on the...

Timing and control of mechanical changes on circular hosiery machines

Air Brake Compressor Cut Away Picture

The application of microprocessor controls has removed the need for mechanical timing chains and control drums on the latest electronically-controlled hosiery machines. The machine's microprocessor memory can accommodate a range of sizes and styles that can be quickly recalled when a change is required. On mechanically-controlled machines, the changes are timed by the links of a timing chain that also control the racking of a control shaft to which are attached the control cam-drums and wheels...

The direction of lapping at successive courses

Open Pillar Stitch

When using either open or closed laps there are three possible arrangements of lapping at successive courses, which may be used alone or in combination 1 The pillar stitch. In the pillar or chain stitch, the same guide always overlaps the same needle. This lapping movement will produce chains of loops in uncon nected wales, which must be connected together by the underlaps of a second guide bar. Generally, pillar stitches are made by front guide bars, either to produce vertical stripe effects...

Little Mock Cables Classic Mock Cable Tamerna Stitch and Mock Wave Cable

Mock Cable

These two-stitch twist patterns have a multitude of uses. On either side of a large cable, or any other panel pattern with a purled background, they make very nice borders to give the panel a fancy finish. Repeated continuously all the way across a fabric, they make beautiful ribbings. Used as accents in a plain fabric, with varying numbers of knit stitches between panels, they give a cable effect without the use of the cable needle. The method of twisting the stitches to the right given here...

Tuck Stitch Formation

Needle Formation Miss Cam

Two consecutive strokes of the carriage are necessary to form the tuck stitch picture 30 . During the first stroke, the tucking cam of the cam is out and the looping cam is not working. Therefore the needle only raises as high as the tucking plane the loop cannot slip on the stem, and therefore remains inside the hook after having completely opened the latch, in this way allowing the yarn to be fed. During the second stroke both the tucking cam and the looping cam are activated the needle rises...

Basic Structure of a Largediameter Circular Knitting Machine

Circular knitting machines include a number of fundamental elements, based on similar mechanical principles with some small changes according to the different models - The machine base. The most recent trend among circular machine manufacturers is to build knitting machines with a solid yet smaller base and an architecture that facilitates access to the machine components for routine operations to be carried out during setting up procedures and production - The core of the machine, which...

The double needle bar raschel

Waffle Knit Diagrammatic Notation

The double needle bar raschel, as designed by Redgate, later developed into a general-purpose machine, mainly knitting shawls and scarves. At first, the needle bars were arranged back-to-back alternately, as on rib weft knitting machines, but they were soon placed exactly behind each other for convenience of guide bar swinging. Between six and eight guide bars were employed, together with various attachments such as a fall-plate, a crepeing motion which could disengage one needle bar for a...

Classification of Warp Knitting Machines

Raschelmachine

Warp knitting machines can be divided into flat warp knitting machines and Raschel machines. They can have a single or a double needle-bed. Flat warp knitting machines are equipped with spring beard needles or compound needles, while Raschel machines incorporate latch needles or compound needles. The sinkers of flat warp knitting machines feature a nose, a throat and a breast, and pull the fabric perpendicularly to the needle direction. Raschel machines incorporate sinkers with nose only as the...

Knitting in Switzerland and in the Netherlands

Swiss knitting developed in the seventeenth century. The information that the first stockings knitted with five needles were produced about 1560 is untrue because this technique had been known 200 years earlier.34 Hand knitting developed first on the borderland with Alsace, about 30 workshops functioning in Basle and vicinity. Rules for journeymen from Freiburg date from 1591. Producers of knitted leggings were organizationally connected with clothiers, while a journeyman's pay was fixed at one...

Structural modifications commonly used in weft and warp knitting

Practicle Movement Example

Certain techniques are possible during the knitting action that can radically change the physical appearance and properties of a knitted construction without seriously affecting the cohesive nature of the loop structure. These techniques may be broadly divided into four groups - laying-in, plating, open-work and plush pile. Although these techniques can be achieved on most knitting machines, slight modifications are often necessary and the more sophisticated versions of these techniques may...

Stitch Formation Motions

Mayer Sinker Plush Knitting

Circular knitting machines, both the single or double-bed types according to our initial classification, can incorporate various stitch formation motions depending on the machine's technical features. The Main Components of a Single-bed Machine Single-bed circular knitting machines are equipped with only one series of needles sliding in the grooves of a circular needle-bed. The needles are usually latch needles but some manufacturers have designed machines equipped with compound needles. The...

The bipartite compound needle

Knitting Slide Needle

Compound needles Fig. 3.5 consist of two separately-controlled parts - the open hook and the sliding closing element tongue, latch, piston, plunger . The two parts rise and fall as a single unit but, at the top of the rise, the hook moves faster to open the hook and at the start of the fall the hook descends faster to close the hook. It is easier to drive the hooks and tongues collectively from two separate bars in warp knitting than to move each hook and tongue individually, as in weft...

Loopwheel Circular Knitting Machines

Loop Wheel Circular Knitting Machine

Loop-wheel circular knitting machines, or mailleuse in French picture 123 , incorporate a circular needle bed in which spring beard needles are arranged horizontally. Loop-wheel circular knitting machines, or mailleuse in French picture 123 , incorporate a circular needle bed in which spring beard needles are arranged horizontally. Picture 123 - A loop-wheel circular knitting machine During the stitch formation cycle picture 124 the needle moves close to the looping wheel. The corresponding...

Flat Knitting Machines

Manual Flat Knitting Machine

The flat knitting machine is a two-bed machine (picture 20). The most important mechanical features of a flat knitting machine are - two needle-beds made up of flat grooved plates - a carriage provided with cam-locks for needle control 1. Inclined by 90 -100 with respect to one another, with a staggered arrangement of the grooves accommodating latch needles or compound needles. The two flat beds are the front needle-bed (indicating the needle-bed closer to the operator) and the rear needle-bed...

The compoundneedle warp knitting machine

Compound Needle Knitting

After its introduction in 1946, the two guide bar British-built FNF tricot machine with its tubular compound needles Section 3.16 became, for 10 years, the pacemaker of the industry, with its speed of 1000 courses per minute being more than twice that of contemporary bearded needle machines. It also incorporated many new features such as double eccentric element drive, positive warp let-off, light spring warp tension rails, and carefully-balanced machine parts. However, it required precise...

The three classes of weft knitting machines

Vintage Hosiery Machinery

The three main groups of weft knitting machinery may broadly be classified as either straight bar frames, flats, or circulars, according to their frame design and needle bed arrangement. Straight bar frames are a specific type of machine having a vertical bar of bearded needles whose movement is controlled by circular engineering cams attached to a revolving cam-shaft in the base of the machine. The length of the machine is divided into a number of knitting heads 'sections' or 'divisions' and...

Three Cables with Irish Knots Hollow Oak Crazy Maypole and Lorgnette Cable

Crazy Knitting Patterns

Though these three cables are quite diverse in appearance, all three are decorated with Irish Knots, single or in clusters. Hollow Oak and Lorgnet te Cable are fairly straightforward patterns, with no tricks about them except their own special brand of novelty. But the knitter who uses Crazy Maypole must watch what she is doing. It is an off-center, free-swinging sort of pattern incorporating knots, twists, and an inside-out cable cross in which one knit stitch is crossed in front of two purl...

Simple tuck and float stitch singlejersey fabrics

Lacoste Notation Knitting Structure

Figure 13.1 illustrates the notations of some simple single-jersey fabrics, whilst Fig. 13.2 illustrates a loop diagram of hopsack, a single-jersey inlaid fabric. In order to tie a lay-in yarn into the back of a single-jersey structure, selected needles are raised to tuck height to receive the lay-in yarn at a point in advance of the ground knitting feeder. The needles are then raised to clearing height prior to receiving and knitting the ground yarn. Fig. 13.2 Single jersey hopsack structure...

Garter stitch blanket

Garter Stitch Blanket Squares

A soft blanket in a cashmere mix is the perfect way to envelop a small baby. By working the squares in different shades you can create a patchwork of colour without having to worry about tackling complicated colour techniques. As with the scarf, tension is not as important as it usually is, as any alteration made in measurements won't be a problem on a blanket because it does not need to fit a particular size. However, with this pattern you are now being introduced to another knitting...

Weft knitted fabric relaxation and shrinkage

Changes of dimension after knitting can create major problems in garments and fabrics, especially those produced from hydrophilic fibres such as wool and cotton. Articles knitted from synthetic thermoplastic fibres such as nylon and polyester can be heat-set to a shape or to dimensions that are retained unless the setting conditions are exceeded during washing and wearing. In the case, of wool fibres, dimensional changes can be magnified by felting shrinkage. When untreated wool fibres are...

Diagonal front jacket

Knitted Diagonal Dot Stitch

This casual jacket's unusual structure is created by simply increasing and decreasing to form diagonal ribbed fronts. 21 4 24 in Sleeve seam with cuff turned back 16 18 50g balls of Debbie Bliss cotton dk in Pale Blue Pair 4mm US 6 knitting needles Long 4mm US 6 circular needle 19 sts and 28 rows to 10cm 4in square over patt using 4mm US 6 needles. cm centimetres cont continue dec decreas e ing foil following in inches inc increas e ing k knit ml make one by picking up loop lying between st...

Reverse stockinette stitch stripes

Reverse stockinette stitch rev St st is just one example of how to make textured stripes see Figure 10-1 . This stitch pattern uses rows of reverse stockinette on a plain stockinette background. Try the following pattern for a basic reverse stockinette stitch stripe Cast on any number of stitches. Rows 1, 3, and 6 Knit. Rows 2, 4, and 5 Purl. Here's what's happening As you work Rows 1, 2, 3, and 4, you create your stockinette stitch the smooth background . Then at Row 5, because you purl again...

Bias And Chevron Knitting

Use increases and decreases to shape within the fabric of your knitting to create bias and chevron effects. If you increase and decrease one stitch at opposite ends on alternate rows so that the stitch count remains constant, the knitted fabric will slant while the direction of the stitches remains vertical. Decreases at the beginning and increases at the end of a row lilt the fabric to the left, increases at the beginning and decreases at the end tilt the fabric to the right. Although often...

Aran Diamonds with Moss Stitch

Moss Stitch Aran

More than any other pattern, this one typifies Aran knitting. It is pure, classic Aran a fully developed design, symmetrical, clean, and refined by generations down to a deceptive simplicity. Sometimes it is worked on a panel of 15 stitches, with the borders of the diamonds made of two knit stitches instead Row 1 Wrong side K5, pi, kl, pi, k5. Row 2 P5, si next 2 sts to dpn and hold in front, kl-b, then si the purl st from dpn to left-hand needle and purl it, then kl-b from dpn p5. Row 4 P4, si...

Course length and runin per rack

In weft knitting, the term 'course length' refers to the measurement of a straight length of yarn knitted by all or a fraction of the needles in the production of a particular course. It consists of the stitch length multiplied by the number of needles knitting that stitch length. It may be measured at a yarn feed during knitting or after unroving the yarn from a knitted fabric, either as a complete course length or from the counted wales between two vertical cuts in the fabric. In Fig. 6.1,...

Knit Purl Combinations

Rib Patterns With Similar Two Sides

Of all types of knitting patterns, knit-purl combinations are the simplest in technique though not necessarily naive or crude in design. On the contrary, many knit-purl patterns are highly sophisticated. The fancier ones require just as much care and patience on the part of the knitter as do the intricate figures in lace or cable stitches. However, because of the simplicity of technique, most knit-purl patterns work very quickly. The new knitter will find them useful as an introduction to...

Fabric machines and garmentlength machines

Weft knitting machines may be broadly grouped according to end product as either circular machines, knitting tubular fabric in a continuous uninterrupted length of constant width, or flat and circular machines, knitting garment-length sequences, which have a timing or counting device to initiate an additional garment-length programming ('machine control') mechanism. This co-ordinates the knitting action to produce a garment-length structural repeat sequence in a wale-wise direction. The garment...

Your First Sweater Easy Top Down Raglan

Sweater Chart Diagram

This Easy Top-Down Raglan sweater pattern simply couldn't be any more basic. In fact, it's probably one of the easiest sweater patterns you'll ever follow. You don't even need to worry about gauge. If you can knit in the round and do increases, you can make this sweater. Figure 18-1 shows the schematic for this top-down sweater.

The development of the straight bar frame

Straight Bar Frames Knitting Machine

The straight bar frame is, with a number of later improvements and developments, recognisable as a direct descendant of William Lee's hand frame. Credit for the development of the first acceptable power-driven rotary frame is given to Samuel Wise who, in 1769, replaced the foot pedals with a power-driven rotary shaft whose tappets caught against arms and levers to move the working parts. To increase productivity it was necessary to simplify the knitting action and introduce automatic mechanisms...

Nonjacquard doublejersey structures

Rib Interlock Machine Dial Cams

Most interlock variation structures have six- or eight-feeder sequences, as only alternate needles in one bed are in action in a course. Single pique or cross tuck interlock Fig. 13.3a was one of the first to be produced, by placing tuck cams in the dial at every third feeder. The tuck stitches throw the fabric out approximately 15 per cent wider than normal interlock to a satisfactory finished width of over 60 inches approximately 1.5 m for a 30-inch diameter machine. They break up the surface...

Jacket with Knitted Sleeves

Cardigan Sewing Pattern Dowl

Photo page 64 Design and Instructions by Anne Deval and Mette Olsen. Pattern for the sleeves is from the Dalarna Museum. Size XS 12 years S 34-36 M 38-40 L 42 child 4-6 years 90 97 103 cm 333 4 35V2 38 40V4 in Width child's size 65 cm 251 5 in 59 61 64 cm 211 2 231 4 24 251 4 in Length child's size 37 cm 14VSin The jacket has sleeves knitted in the round which are sewn onto a lined cloth body. Sewing Instructions Begin by drawing the pattern to full scale on paper and cut it out. The neck...

The Shima Seiki electronic selection system

Bed Knitting Machine Stitch Diagrams

Figure 19.2 illustrates the front F and back bed B cam systems of a Shima Seiki two knitting system model SEC. It is indicated that the cam carriage is traversing Fig. 19.1 Mechanical jacquard selection on a V-bed flat machine. Fig. 19.1 Mechanical jacquard selection on a V-bed flat machine. from right-to-left so that the butts of the knitting elements enter from the left, passing through four systems 1 From the left, the first system is transferring loops from the back bed to the front bed....

Imparting shape during knitting

Needle Bed

In addition to facilities for garment-length sequence knitting, weft knitting provides unique opportunities for width-wise shaping during knitting, with the sequence being initiated and co-ordinated from the same central control mechanism. The three methods of width shaping are 1 varying the number of needles in action in the knitting width, 2 changing the knitting construction, and Wale fashioning is the normal manner of shaping symmetrically or asymmetrically on straight bar frames Figures...

Electronic needle selection

Moratronic Needle Selection

Electro-magnetic needle selection is now available on many types of knitting machines this was first commercially used on circular rib jacquard machines Fig. 11.11 . The electronic impulse that energises an electromagnet is usually assisted by the field of a permanent magnet, and the minute selection movement is then magnified by mechanical means. If all the needles, or a block of needles, were to be simultaneously selected, each would require its own actuator. It is much cheaper to select the...

The Tsudakoma TFK machine

Tensioner For Yarn

The first automatic V-bed machine to operate without cam boxes, the model TFK, was demonstrated by the Tsudakoma Corporation at the 1995 ITMA exhibition. The Asahi Chemical Industry Co. supported its earlier development. The model TFK has a working width of 122cm 48 in in gauges 7,8,10 and 12, with a maximum variable speed of 1.2m sec. Individual linear electric motors drive the needles in their tricks Fig. 19.13 The computer and control system regulate the linear motors to simulate the...

The five basic overlapunderlap variations

Over Lap Knitting

All guide bar lapping movements are composed of one or more of the following lapping variations (Fig. 23.5) 1 An overlap followed by an underlap in the opposite direction (closed lap) (Fig. 23.5a). 2 An overlap followed by an underlap in the same direction (open lap) (Fig. 23.5b). 3 Only overlaps and no underlaps (open laps) (Fig. 23.5c). 4 Only underlaps and no overlaps (laying-in) (Fig. 23.5d). 5 Neither overlaps nor underlaps (miss-lapping) (Fig. 23.5e). Movements 4 and 5 require the...

A comparison of latch and compound needles

Compared with the latch needle, the compound needle is more intricate and expensive to manufacture. Each of its two parts must be separately and precisely controlled during knitting. In circular knitting, yarn feeding is very critical because, if the yarn lands on the tongue, it will not enter the open hook, whereas in latch needle knitting the closing latch will flick the yarn into the hook. It is particularly a problem when knitting multiple tucks. Adjustment of a machine setting is therefore...

Basic Technology General Remarks

Loop Length Knitted Fabric

A discussion about knitting technology must be dealt both as an analysis of the technical cycles of knitting as regards the machines used and the mechanisms involved in the process, and as an analysis of the technology of knitted fabrics in terms of their structures and their physical and mechanical properties. In its simplest form, a knit fabric picture 1 is made by the longitudinal and vertical repetition of the same element, the loop, which is the basic element of the fabric. The loop...

Corn on the Cob Stitch

This fabric, knitted in narrow vertical stripes, is nubby and very dense. It is well suited to heavy knitted coats and jackets calculated to keep the wind out and it can be done also in fine yarn for such articles as gloves. Cast on with Color A and knit one row. Row 1 Right side With B, kl, kl, si 1 wyib rep from , end kl. Row 2 With B, kl, si 1 wyif, kl rep from , end kl. Row 3 With A, kl, si 1 wyib, kl-b rep from , end kl. Row 4 With A, kl, kl, si 1 wyif rep from , end kl. Work Pin Stripe...

Weaving Pattern For Diamond In A Square

Wrapped Knotted Button

Wrjp four rounds of seven twe wraps. The firs two re shown. Make two more rotxxte on trte d gomL B. Make rounds of two wraps txrween Cvise wraps D.Movcdjck to center nd overcast next par of wraps. D.Movcdjck to center nd overcast next par of wraps. A. Wrjp four rounds of seven twe wraps. The firs two re shown. Make two more rotxxte on trte d gomL B. Make rounds of two wraps txrween Cvise wraps Next, moke wo wr pi of gimp across the tenter between two round of seven, as in drawing B at left...

Crocheting Over A Ring

Crochet Bullion

Pns Us B. tmcrt hook thnxjgfr center coring, C PoQ hod through toqps on hook. tvtcfi of wcri through ccnrcr of Wr p thr d ovtr hook And pu fron1 r Kk to front. Insert hook tn Mdk through center of On ou amp de of On oot amp de of r,wr p t rejd jroof J nog. , rjp itmzsd tntr Aoo . For sa ripU in gold cut p. 71. you'll need sire 36 commercial hall round button mold covcml with fabrii 14 steel crochet hook UK. 7 . fiml I ch y. si si in slipknot 4 umcv ch . u In first ch of...

Balanced double decrease

Knitting Increases For Ribs

Working a decrease that takes one stitch from each side and leaves the center stitch on top has lots of potential for shaping and for working beautiful stitch patterns. l Insert the right needle into the second and first stitches as if to knit two together, and slip these stitches onto the right needle. l Insert the right needle into the second and first stitches as if to knit two together, and slip these stitches onto the right needle. 2 Knit the next stitch, then lift the two slipped stitches...

Is Knitting Losing Popularity

As far as the catwalk is concerned, knitting is back in fashion. Over the past few decades, knitting changed from being utilitarian to fashionable, before losing popularity at the end of the last century. Now, however there is a newfound interest in this versatile craft, and knitwear is once more a favorite of clothes designers. Until the late 1950s. most everyday clothing items could and would have been knitted, from socks and underwear to hats and swimsuits, and every other item of clothing...

Classification of Knitting Machines

Warp Knitting Machines

The machines used for the manufacturing of knit fabrics can be divided into machines with individually driven needles and needle bar machines. The former type of machine incorporates needles which are moved individually by cams acting on the needle butt they are used for producing weft knits and are subdivided into circular knitting machines and flat-bed knitting machines. The needles used can be latch needles or compound needles. The needle bar machines incorporate needles which move...

Jacket with moss stitch bands

Leaf Baby Sweater Pattern

This neat little cardigan has button and buttonhole bands that are worked in one piece with the fronts. This means that you do not have to pick up stitches along the front edges. As there is a shaped neckline, stitches do need to be picked up across the front bands, up the right side neck, across the back neck stitches and down the left front neck to work the neckband. The moss stitch borders on the hem of the cardigan sleeve cuffs and neckband are knitted on smaller needles to make a neater...

Vneck cardigan with contrast ribs

Often front bands such as buttonbands are worked after the garment has been completed. This is because stitches such as ribs need to be worked on a smaller needle to create the neatest finish. There are two main types of front bands one where the band is knitted and sewn on separately, and the other where stitches are picked up down the front edges. I prefer the latter as a sewn-on band can look messy. The rib pattern is created by alternating knit and purl stitches in the same row and is often...

Diamond Clematis Strip

Knitting Crochet Patterns

Before going to Australia, Tasmania and New Zealand in 1978,1 spent a great deal of time knitting counterpane swatches from books in my collection and from the library. This particular pattern I found in the nineteenth-century publication The Young Ladies Journal. During my trip, I was delighted to find this pattern used in a counterpane in the Van Dieman Museum in Hobart, Tasmania. That version had the double-cable panel worked on either side of the clematis strip. Later, in the Canterbury...

Embossed Twining Vine Leaf

Knitting Leaf

T his is perhaps the most graceful of all the embossed-leaf patterns. It gives a lovely effect either in a single panel or all over the fabric. When a rib of one or two knit stitches is inserted between panels of Embossed Twining Vine Leaf, as shown, the knit rib receives a slight but definite wave that adds to he beauty of the pattern in general. Sweaters are delightful when done with this pattern, and matching skirts can be made by placing plain knit panels between pattern panels, and working...

Symmetrical decreases

Decreasing Within Edges Stitches

IMake left slant by knitting a uniform number of stitches 2 or 3, as shown at edge, then knit 3 stitches together in a twisted manner through back . 2 Make right slant by knitting to within 3 stitches of edge stitches, then knit through front 3 stitches together as one knit edge stitches. ICnitting is generally finished by binding off the stitches following the pattern of the piece knit stitches are knitted and purl stitches are purled and working just loosely enough to keep the elasticity of...

Herringbone Faggoting

Although the interlocking strands of plain Faggoting form a herringbone design, this design becomes more pronounced when some extra stitches are added to make vertical ribs between the openwork. These ribs also give a little added firmness to the fabric. Half Herringbone Faggot adds one stitch for a small rib. HALF HERRINGBONE FAGGOT OR FAGGOTING RIB STITCH Multiple of 3 sts. Kl, yo, k2 tog rep from . Repeat this row. When two stitches are added, the rib is more pronounced and obviously dual....

Rib and Braid Pattern

Knit Aran Braid Pattern

Tired of that dreary old k2, p2 in a ribbed pullover Try this beautiful contemporary German pattern instead You'll have a much more interesting sweater, and enjoy working it. Notes FC Front Cross si 1 st to dpn and hold in front, pi. then k 1 from dpn. FKC Front Knit Cross same as FC, but knit both sts. BC Back Cross si 1 st to dpn and hold in back, kl, then pi from dpn. BKC Back Knit Cross same as BC, but knit both sts. Rows I and 3 Wrong side K3. p2, k2, p2, k3 rep from . Row 2 P3, BKC, p2,...

Flat Doublebed Warp Knitting Machines and Doublebed Raschel machines

Double Bed Flat Knitting Machine

The stitch formation cycle on double-bed machines is similar to single-bed machines. The difference is that these machines incorporate two needle beds with their hook turned outwards, two grooved plates supporting the fabric and a single group of bars working alternatively with both the needle-beds, forming the stitch first with the needles of one bed and then with the needles of the other. Double-bed machines can incorporate spring beard needles picture 135 , in this case they Picture 137 -...

Reverse Cross Stitch Ribbing and Mock Cable

Left Side Knit Rib

These two ribbings combine well, because the Mock Cable Rib tends to be a little flat and the Reverse Cross-Stitch, in high relief, compensates for this and gives the combination more Row 1 Right side P2, k2, p2 rep from . Row 2 K2, skip 1 st and purl the 2nd st, then purl the skipped st, then si both sts from needle together k2 rep from . Rows 1 and 3 Wrong side K2, p3, k2 rep from . Row 4 P2, skip 2 sts and insert needle knitwise into front of 3rd st, then taking point of needle in front of...

Spoke point ruffle collarcuff

Knitting Ruffle Collar Pattern

First ruffle Work rows 1 10 of spoke point ruffle pattern. Cont in St st for 10 rows. Place sts on a holder. Second ruffle Work rows 1-10 of spoke point ruffle pattern. Join ruffles Place 2nd ruffle over first ruffle and join using 3-needle joining technique Cast on 95 sts. First ruffle Work rows 110 of spoke point ruffle pattern. Cont in St st for 10 rows. Place sts on a holder. Second ruffle Work rows 1-10 of spoke point ruffle pattern. Joining ruffles Place 2nd ruffle over...

The two methods of yarn feeding

Knitting Mechanism

As mentioned in Section 4.3.2, yarn feeding involves either a moving the needles past the stationary yarn feed or b moving the yarn past the stationary needle bed. When the yarn moves past the needles, the fabric will be stationary because the loops hang from the needles. This arrangement exists on all warp knitting machines, and on weft knitting machines with straight beds and circular machines with stationary cylinders and dials. On straight machines of both weft and warp type, the...

Vertical dropstitch collar

Bold Baroque Cable And Cord Collar

Work in vertical drop-stitch pattern for one repeat. Next row WS P3tog across to last 2 sts, p2 64 sts. Work in St st for 172.5cm for facing. Bind off. Fold facing to wrong side along turning ridge and sew to inside edge. Sew a pearl in each dropped stitch along row 1. beg with a multiple of 8 sts plus 4 Preparation row RS K1, p2. kl, yo, kl. p2. k2 rep from end p2,k1. Rows 1, 3. and 5 WS PI, 'k2. p2, k2, p3 rep from end k2, pi. Rows 2 and 4 Kl. p2, k3. p2, k2 rep from , end p2, kl. Row 6 Kl,...

Waffle Stitch or Rose Fabric

Waffle Stitch

In all four versions of this pattern care must be taken not to cast on too tightly or too many stitches, because the pattern spreads laterally to make a wider piece than might be expected. Check gauge. Note For all four versions, odd number of sts. Row 1 Wrong side K2, pi, kl rep from , end kl. Row 2 Kl, k next st in the row below, kl rep from . Row 3 Kl, pi, kl rep from . Row 4 K2, k next st in the row below, kl rep from , end kl. Repeat Rows 1-4. II. REVERSE SEED STITCH VERSION Row 1 Wrong...

The reverse loop stitch

This is the opposite side of the stitch to the face loop-side and shows the new loop meshing away from the viewer as it passes under the head of the old loop. It is referred to as the left side on the mainland of Europe. Reverse stitches show the sinker loops in weft knitting and the underlaps in warp knitting most prominently on the surface. The reverse loop side is the nearest to the head of the needle because the needle draws the new loop downwards through the old loop Figures 4.4 and 5.8 ....

Knitting action of the plain straight bar frame

Knitting Motion Straight Bar Frame

Figure 17.2 shows the cross-section of the knitting head containing the following elements A Bearded needle, having a cranked end for location in the tricked and drilled needle bar. B Sinker - only one between every other needle space - with a reinforced back and, at the front, a 'catch' to sink the yarn around the needles, and a 'neb' to separate the old and new loops until knock-over. C Divider, occupying each remaining space, usually having the same shaped front as the sinker but with an...

The Shima total design system

Since developing the Micro SDS pattern preparation system, Shima have introduced a series of systems with improved hardware and software according to industry's needs. The Shima Total Design System is a totally-integrated knit production system that allows all stages - planning, design, evaluation, production, and sales promotion -to be integrated into a smooth work-flow 1 The designer, using computer-graphic paint software and a pressure-sensitive airbrush, creates concept drawings. Scanned-in...

Aran Diamond and Bobble

Knitting Patterns Diamond

Left Aran Diamond and Bobble center Clustered Braid right Cluster Cable left Aran Diamond and Bobble center Clustered Braid right Cluster Cable Notes Front Cross FC si 2 sts to dpn and hold in front, pi. then k2 from dpn. Back Cross BC si 1 st to dpn and hold in back, k2, then pi from dpn. Rows 1 and 3 Wrong side K6, p2, kl, p2, k6. Row 2 P6, si next 3 sts to dpn and hold in back, k2, then si the purl st from dpn back to left-hand needle and purl it, then k2 from dpn p6. Row 4 P5, BC. kl, FC,...

The evolution of hand knitting

The term knitting describes the technique of constructing textile structures by forming a continuous length of yarn into columns of vertically intermeshed loops. It relies heavily on the availability of fine, strong, uniformly spun yarn. The term 'knitting' dates from the mid-sixteenth century, earlier words such as the Saxon 'cnyttan' and the Sanskrit 'nahyat' being less precise, indicating that knitting probably evolved from sources such as the experience gained by knotting and Coptic...

Rules governing two guide bar structures

Stitches Tricot Structures

1 As the guides swing through the needles to start their next overlap, the back guide bar is first to lay its underlap on the technical back Fig. 25.2 and the front bar is the last, so its underlaps lie on top on the back of the fabric Fig. 25.3 . 2 The front bar thread is the first to strike the needle on the return swing after the overlap Fig. 25.4 and as its bar swings furthest to the front of the machine, it tends to occupy a lower position on the needle. If this position is retained it...

Two Victorian Leaf Patterns Double Rose Leaf and Tracery Pattern

Leaf Patterns

Both of these patterns are relatives of the classic Beech Leaf, with the Double Rose Leaf bearing the nearest resemblance. Neither pattern maintains the same number of stitches throughout. In Double Rose Leaf, the stitches are immediately reduced to 15 in Row 2, and not restored to 17 until Row 8. In Tracery Pattern, 2 stitches arc increased in Row 4, and removed in Row 6. Row 2 Kl, yo, kl, ssk, pi, k2 tog, kl, pi, kl, ssk, pi, k2 tog, kl, yo, kl. Row 3 P4, kl, p2 twice, kl, p4. Row 4 Kl, yo...

Old Knitting Catalogue

Gossamer Crocheted Wedding Veil

Researching a book can be more exciting than writing it. The people, cups of tea and home-bakes, and the very special pieces of knitting I was shown helped in this task. Descriptions and photographs will never recreate the charm of seeing and handling a rare shawl or allover and hearing first-hand of its creation and the special details that make it totally unique. Much of the old knitwear has left the isles, for the folk had to sell their work. The smart allovers seen today show the affluence...

Sunburst Check Pattern

Austrian Baby Blankets

Eisner, Aldan, Pennsylvania This beautiful pattern comes from Austria, and lends itself to a multitude of uses. It is informal enough for ski sweaters, yet disciplined enough for fascinatingly embossed coatings. It will also make delightful afghans and baby blankets. Notes Front Cross FC si 1 st to dpn and hold in front, p3, then kl from dpn. Back Cross BC si 3 sts to dpn and hold in back, kl, then p3 from dpn. Row 1 Right side K4, p6, k6 rep from , end p6, k4. Row 2...

Dancer S Discipline

Knitwear For Toddlers

Vladimir Teriokhin confesses that his greatest design challenge is staying focused. 1 want to design a lot of things at once, and it often gets me into trouble, he laughs. In ballet, you learn to stay away from a certain spot on the stage because it's slippery and I need to remember that Vladimir frequently mentions dance and design in the same sentence, and it is no coincidence. In 1969, he was among 20,000 9-year-olds who auditioned for the prestigious Bolshoi Ballet Academy School in Moscow...

Terry Knitting Machines

Knitted Terry Stitch Formation

For the manufacturing of terry cloth, it is necessary to use single-bed circular knitting machines equipped with special sinkers featuring a longer nose than standard sinkers and special thread guides which feed simultaneously two yarns, one called ground yarn and the other one called face yarn, into the same needle. During the stitch formation, the sinkers move forward and position themselves between the two yarns. The ground yarn fits under the sinker nose, inside the throat, and carries out...

Bias Band for Necklines

Welted Ruffle

A new type of increase occurs here, which is useful in making a two-sided bias binding for an inside curve such as a neckline. Most increases will show small holes when worked continuously on every other row, but this one is fairly tight and solid. The bias band will draw up to an inside curve and fold naturally down its center. The edges can be stitched to the front and back of the neckline just like a piece of bias tape. Make the band as wide as you wish. Use smallish needles, in proportion...

Other Dorset Ring Buttons

Brass Rings For Dorset Buttons

The Dorset high cop .1 talK conical version of the IVirnct knob was ihe fir needle lace bull on io be produced in southern Lngland The buttons were uny. about 9mm in diameter at the base High tops were used cm mens waistcoats, including the one that King Charles 1 wore Io his execution- Queen Victoria owned a gown lavishly trimmed with Dorset knobs When the Dorset button industry cuUapscd around i860, the construction method for the Dorset knob was kxt In the 1970 Elisabeth Gilbert of Wincamon....

Circular Knitting Machines Introduction

All over the world, the majority of knit fabrics are manufactured on circular knitting machines. The high performance level of these machines, the different materials and the range of yarn counts that they are able to process, the wide variety of designs and stitches are some of the reasons which have granted circular machines the market leadership in the knitting sector. The variety of knit fabrics that can be manufactured with these machines can meet the needs of a very large end user market...

Tilting Block Pattern

Here is an easy-to-work lace check with an absolutely fascinating appearance. The garter-stitch blocks which seem to be tipped at precarious angles arc not worked that way at all they are simply worked straight across. Small areas of bias lace trellis pull them this way and that, to create a most unusual pattern. If a smooth-surfaced fabric is desired, instead of the garter-stitch ridges as contrast to the trellis, then all wrong-side rows may be simply purled across. The shapes of the pattern...

Triple petite bell ruffle cuff

Knit Bell Ruffle Pattern

Bottom layer Work rows 1 to 12 of petite bell ruffle pattern, then rep rows 11 and 12 for 377.5cm. Place 43 sts on a spare needle. Middle layer Work rows 1 to 12 of petite bell ruffle pattern, then rep rows 11 and 12 for 2 5cm. Place 43 sts on a spare needle. Top layer Work rows 1 to 12 of petite bell ruffle pattern, then rep rows 11 and 12 for 172.5cm. Place 43 sts on a spare needle. Join layers Work sts of all three layers tog, using 3-needle joining technique see page 152 . beg with a...

Icelandic Stitch Knit

Lopi Knitting

Pattern-knitted mittens from the western fjords are called laufaviSarvettlingar. leary-wood mittens which evokes vegetation tr s and leaves. Both dyed and undyed yams were used in the wavy patterns which are similar t those in the old pattern books. SigriSur Halldorsdottir, rector of the han- -craft school in Reykjavik, reports that sa I r f mittens had a cross on them for protection - hue they were at sea. Wavy patterns have been use for mittens since the middle of the nineteenth century and...