Cross Stitch Pattern In 5 Minutes
When a chart is used to represent a textured stitch pattern, each square is either empty or contains a symbol. Symbols vary from pattern to pattern. For simple knit-and-purl patterns, an empty square means, knit on the right-side rows and purl on the wrong-side rows. A square that contains a dot means, purl on the right-side rows and knit on the wrong-side rows. More complex stitch patterns, such as cable patterns, contain many symbols representing different techniques. Socks, mittens, gloves, and some hats and sweaters are worked from the top down. If you work color patterns directly from a stitch pattern chart that is meant for an item that is knit from the bottom up, the pattern or motif will be upside-down. To work one of these motifs or patterns properly, turn the chart upside-down.
Choosing the right decrease for the stitch pattern is vital for shaping garments successfully. The single decreases shown on page 24 reduce the width of the knitting one stitch at a time, but sometimes it's necessary to take more stitches together. A double decrease takes in the knitting more rapidly. In knit one, purl one rib, it can be placed so that the pattern is nor interrupted on the next row. And in many stitch patterns, double decreases are used with double increases to create beautiful lacy effects. All these methods of decreasing can be adapted to make multiple decreases by taking more stitches together. As with all decreases, it's very important to be aware of the position of the stitch that lies on top. Always pair a left-slanting and a right-slanting decrease when shaping a garment or working a stitch pattern. The dominant center stitch of the balanced double decrease makes a design feature of shaped darts and gives a clean line to lace patterns.
Stitch pattern also affects yarn choice. If you're working an item in seed stitch, intricate cables, lace patterns, or detailed color work, you'll probably want to choose yarn that has crisp and clear stitch definition. All that detail will be lost in an overly fuzzy yarn. However, using a fuzzy yarn is a good opportunity to work in a basic stitch, like garter or stockinette, to let the yarn carry the show. Inelastic yarns-containing nylon or linen, for example can be difficult to work in textured stitch patterns that use decreases to create bobbles and knots choose a fiber that has a fair amount of stretch for that purpose. Stitch patterns can also get lost in space-dyed or multicolored yarns, so save such novelty yarns for simpler stitch patterns. Always test your stitch pattern on the yarn you plan to use before jumping into the project.
A designer will establish the number of stitches and rows needed to obtain a given measurement in the chosen yarn usually 4 inches or 10 centimeters - and stitch pattern, and use that information when calculating the size and shape of a garment. So it is vital for the knitter following the instructions to work to the same gauge, otherwise the garment simply won't measure the same.
These three swatches are all made from the same yarn and using the same needles, over 20 stitches and 30 rows, but with different stitch patterns. You can see how varied the sizes of the final results are. That's why it's important to knit up a swatch in the stitch pattern you want to integrate into a master pattern. In some cases, the gauge may be just slightly off and easily remedied by blocking to measurements. INCORPORATING STITCH PATTERNS To substitute a stitch pattern for plain stockinette stitch without rewriting the pattern or doing a lot of calculating, you can choose a stitch pattern that works to exactly the same gauge as specified in the pattern. It is also easiest to incorporate a stitch pattern with a repeat that divides evenly into the initial stitch count. For example, diagonal rib has a 4-stitch repeat, so it should be worked over a stitch count that is divisible by 4 (for example, 24, 28, 32, 36, and so on). The simplest approach is to find a stitch pattern that...
Make 2 small bags of pellets from large bag of pellets and insert one into each leg, stuff remainder of legs with toy stuffing. Join arm seams. Make 2 small bags of pellets from large bag of pellets and insert one into each arm, stuff remainder of arms with toy stuffing. Join body back and body front leaving an opening for stuffing. Make a medium bag of pellets from large bag of pellets and insert into base of body, stuff remainder of body with toy stuffing and close. Join head seam. Insert toy stuffing. Attach head, arms and legs to body. Sew ws of ears tog (one each of M and C). Sew ears to head. Using oddments of yarn and bullion stitch for eyes and cross stitch for nose embroider facial features as picture.
Even though the master patterns provided in the previous pages cover numerous sizes, gauges, and styles, you will most likely want to make further adjustments to suit your own personal design sense. You can add color, adjust the length, work in a new stitch pattern, and even change the body shape. You can use the master patterns as stepping-stones to designing your own knits. Working with Stitch
You may have seen a cookbook that presents a master recipe, followed by ways to change the recipe to create whole new dishes. In this book, the master pattern functions in the same way. Materials specifications, stitch counts, and, in some cases, shaping instructions appear in the master pattern, and alternate shaping, finishing, edging, and stitch patterns accompany it. You can easily design your own knits by choosing the various options you'd like to put together. For example, you start with the same basic pattern to create a pair of mittens or a pair of gloves. You choose a size, find the appropriate directions for the yarn you're using, and then select from a number of cuff options, stitch patterns, and embellishments to make your mittens or gloves uniquely yours. The master patterns allow you to learn to create your own unique styles without having to tackle too much complicated math. Each master pattern contains instructions and specifications for at least three gauges. The...
Rib is the most commonly used stitch for borders It creates an elastic flexible fabric which is part
If the main garment is worked in either a colour pattern or a stitch pattern that will pull in the work more tightly than usual, it is even more crucial that the rib is not loose as the contrast between the limp, non-elastic welt and the more dense fabric of the rest of the
In the Double Herringbone Faggot the pattern is expanded to five stitches, the rib reduccd back to the narrow one of Half Herringbone Faggot, and the herringbone design formed twice in every pattern repeat. Of coursc one could go on indefinitely playing around with these patterns, producing also a six-stitch pattern with a double herringbone and a double rib, and so on but a few samples of the many possibilities are enough for general purposes.
Embroidery can also be used within the knitted stitch patterns. I have a cupboard full of old 1940's and 1950's knitting patterns that often include variations on Tyrolean designs where embroidery is used within the cable patterns. On the swatch below, I have used a simple cross stitch within a subtle Fair Isle pattern in duck egg blue, cream and a soft brown.
You can add many different types of stitch patterns to the leg of your sock - textured stitches, lace, and cable patterns are all fun to work and add interest. The number of stitches in the stitch pattern repeat should divide evenly into your total number of sock stitches for a seamless pattern. You can also increase or decrease the number of stitches in the leg to fit your stitch pattern. You can greatly change the look of your socks by adding an interesting stitch pattern to the cuff. If you simply bind off a stockinette sock, you will get a rolled edge great for casual socks, but it might not hold the sock up on the leg. Aside from the suggestions here, the cuff also lends itself nicely to lace edgings or other stitch patterns.
The advantages of this method are many, lr works in any stitch pattern. I here is no abrasion on the yarn since there's no presrringing. I he bead is very secure since borh legs of a stitch the two strands hold it. Lcss-than-smooth yarn maybe used. If you desire varying colors or types of beads, they do not have to be strung in exact order beforehand. Thus, one may add beads spontaneously even whimsically during the process. When you're working wiili more than one strand of yarn, each of the different yarns need not be prestrung. Furthermore, it is easy to add another color to a colorwork partem without having to deal with more strands of yarn just change the bead color I use this method to attach shank buttons on buttonbands and to avoid sewing burtons on (Can you tell 1 really like this method )
Continue working straight, in the round, in the stitch pattern of your choice for the cuff and leg. The leg is where many sock patterns incorporate different types of stitch patterns, such as cables, lace, or color work. The patterning may then continue down the front of the sock to the toe. To incorporate a stitch pattern, figure out how many stitches the pattern requires. A lace pattern that has a 4-stitch repeat will fit nicely over any cast-on number from the chart, but it would be difficult to incorporate a 13-stitch repeat. For more on adding stitch patterns to your basic sock pattern, see Chapter 2.
Prepare the frame and canvas as for cross stitch, only not quite even, but inclining the contrary way to the slant of your st itch. This is necessary, as tent stitch always twists a little but when taken out of the frame, the work will appear tolerably straight. Canvas (coarse) eighteen threads to the inch. Work in cross stitch with double wool. This is proper for a foot-stool, sofa-pillow, &c. Canvas (very coarse) ten threads to the inch. Work in .cross stitch, over one thread, with single wool. If used for grounding, work in two threads. This will accclerate the work, and look equally well. - Colours. An attention to shades is of the utmost consequence, as on this, in an eminent degree, depends tho perfection of the work. The shades must be so chosen, as to blend into each other, or all harmony of colouring will be destroyed. The colours must be more distinct in tent stitch than in cross stitch, or rather moie strongly contrasted, especially in the* dark shades of flowers without...
2 Lightly steam to block, if necessary and if your yarn's care instructions allow. Lace patterns benefit from blocking. Be sure to open the stitch pattern up a bit as you block and take care not to mash delicate stitch patterns. Using Other Stitch Patterns for a Triangular Shawl You can adapt the triangular shawl to new stitch patterns. You need to perform increases every other row and work new stitches into your pattern as you go along. It's a good idea to make a practice triangle first to ensure that your stitch pattern can be adapted to the shape. To make a triangular shawl using a two-row stitch pattern that is worked over any number of stitches or over an odd number of stitches, follow the instructions for the easiest lace shawl through row 6. Then follow these steps 1 Next row (RS) K2, yo, work row 1 of desired stitch pattern up to the last 2 sts, yo, k2. 2 Next row (WS) K2, work row 2 of desired stitch pattern up to the last 2 sts, k2. To make a triangular shawl using a two-row...
Many knitting patterns have a stitch pattern that's repeated. So, in addition to directions like Cast on 24 stitches or Work until your piece measures 12 inches, you may have directions that repeat over a set number of stitches in a row (using asterisks to show you what to repeat) and over a set number of rows (the pattern will tell you which rows to repeat, such as Repeat Rows 1-6 until the piece measures 12 inches. ).
The stitch that the bead sits on top of is not knitted bui slipped instead. Always slip as if to purl. The bead sits on top of the unknitted stitch on the floated strand of yarn. Thus, on the wrong side of stockinette stitch (or die purl side), bring the yarn to the back when a bead is desired, slip the stitch, bring the bead up to the needle and keep it to the back of the work (or the right side), then bring the yarn to die front again to purl. On die right side of stockinette stitch (or the knit side), bring the yarn to the Iront when a bead is desired, slip rhc sritch, bring the bead up to the needle and keep ic to the front of rhc work (or the right side), then bring the yarn to rhe back again to knit. This method may be employed in any stitch pattern, as long as rhe yarn is to rhe right side of the slip stitch(es).
You can work any of the three stitch patterns provided on page 20 for this shawl. Or you can substitute a stitch pattern that is 5 Continue working st patt as established, knitting first and last 2 sts of every row for garter stitch for border, until shawl measures approx 52 inches, or width desired. End with row 6 for stockinette drop stitch pattern, any WS row for ridge and eyelet stitch, and row 1 for peacock stitch.
I would like to make hand warmers using the master pattern, but I want to substitute a stitch pattern that is written for working back andforth in rows. Is there a way to convert it so I can knit it in the round Yes, you can substitute a new stitch pattern as long as the pattern repeat is compatible with the stitch count. Some stitch patterns can be a little tricky to convert, but with some experimentation, you should be able to adapt a lot of patterns.
If you work your vest neatly in a stitch pattern that lies flat, you can get away with omitting the edgings. This vest is knit in a garter stitch stripe pattern that consists of six rows of stockinette stitch alternated with eight rows of garter stitch. If you're knitting a cardigan like the one shown, one change you will have to make to the master pattern is to cast on about an extra 'A inch worth of stitches to each front piece. This allows the front pieces to overlap for buttoning, as the buttonholes are worked directly into the front piece rather than on a knit-in band. Before you work the front piece that will have the buttonholes, simply place markers for buttons on the opposite front piece and work the buttonholes 2 or 3 stitches in from the front vertical edge, opposite the markers. In addition to working the master pattern in a compatible stitch pattern, you can work it in a color pattern that works with your stitch count. This easy vest is knit in several colors but uses...
For the Knits Summer 2006 staff project, then-editor Pam Allen chose a simple lace stitch pattern and asked each of us to create something different with it. Cyrene Slegona designed this easy-but-elegant scarf, alternating several lace repeats with blocks of stockinette stitch, in a silky yarn that is to die for. Treat yourself or someone special with this quick-to-knit scarf that will give pleasure for years to come.
Note The cast-on numbers in Table 5 include the 2 edging stitches at each end (4 sts total). If you are substituting a different stitch pattern from those provided, be sure to add 4 to the number of sts needed to arrive at the new cast-on number. Note The cast-on numbers in Table 5 include the 2 edging stitches at each end (4 sts total). If you are substituting a different stitch pattern from those provided, be sure to add 4 to the number of sts needed to arrive at the new cast-on number. To apply any stitch pattern to this shawl, you just need to add or subtract the appropriate number of stitches to or from the cast-on number. For example, to use a stitch pattern that is a multiple of 5 sts, you can change the cast-on number indicated above to the closest multiple of 5. To include a 2-stitch border like the one here, add 4 sts to that number. A difference of a few stitches won't make a big difference in the finished size. You can also experiment with the size of and stitch used for...
Fair Isle charts read like stitch pattern charts. Each square represents a stitch, and the symbol or color given in each square represents the color in which to work the stitch. The pattern chart includes a key listing the symbols used and the colors they represent (for more information on reading charts, refer to Chapter 3). Beyond these basic rules, here are some points specific to Fair Isle charts i If the design uses a stitch pattern other than stockinette, the symbol will represent the color used and the type of stitch to make. For example, an x may tell you to purl with red on right-side rows and knit with red on wrong-side rows the symbol y may tell you to knit with red on right-side rows and purl with red on wrong-side rows.
Cable stitch is a traditional hand-knitted stitch pattern incorporated into fishermen's sweaters in the islands of Jersey, Guernsey and particularly Aran, where it is one of a range of stitch patterns (Fig. 18.8) that includes ladder, blackberry stitch and honeycomb 2 .Traditionally,the yarn is partly-scoured wool in its ecru (undyed and unbleached) colour. The cable stitch is a three-dimensional design of cords of face loop wales, centred in a panel of reverse loop stitches bordered on either side by rib wales of face stitches. Each cord is usually three wales wide these move as a unit when they are crossed (twisted) over another cord. The direction of twist of the cords is always the same relative to the surface of the design.
To make a gauge swatch, you need to use the yarn and needle size, and in some cases the stitch pattern, that the pattern calls for. It's not a bad idea to have handy three pairs of needles the size called for, the next size smaller, and the next size larger. (If you don't use them for this project, you will need them someday for another project.)
To make your shaping symmetrical, or to shape while maintaining a particular stitch pattern, you sometimes need to decrease two stitches at a time. For example, if you're working seed stitch or single rib, you can keep the stitch pattern correct by knitting or purling 3 stitches together. Some patterns ask you to increase or decrease a certain number of stitches evenly across a row when the knitting needs to quickly become substantially wider or narrower. You should use whichever increase or decrease method is best suited for your stitch pattern. Some patterns ask you to increase or decrease a certain number of stitches evenly across a row when the knitting needs to quickly become substantially wider or narrower. You should use whichever increase or decrease method is best suited for your stitch pattern.
In Coptic knitting or Nalbinding, an upside-down looped structure is produced using a single-eyed needle (like a sewing needle) containing a short length of yarn. Normally, crossed loops are formed. The technique can achieve fashioning, closing, circular knitting and stitch patterning. Leicester's Jewry Wall Museum possesses a sock of cross stitch construction from the Antinoe site in Roman Egypt dating from the fifth century AD 1 .
So, you can't pryyourteen out of her hoodie even inthemiddleofsummer. What do you do Knit a cool alternative Knitted from a cotton linen yarn, this is one hoodie that will be wearable on even the hottest days and its bold colour is ideal fbrteens who love to stand out from the crowd. Teens who are good knitters could knit it themselves. This is an easy project to knit as it doesn't have a complicated stitch pattern and has quite simple shaping, says designer Ruth Maddock,
Cable - a method of moving a group of stitches across the fabric, or crossing one set of stitches over another, to make a pattern like a rope. Cable needles - short, double-pointed needles used when moving groups of stitches in cable or twisted stitch patterns Slipping stitch - a stitch that is passed from one needle to another without being worked. Split ring marker - little clips that can be attached to knitting to mark the beginning of a round in circular knitting, or for marking points in a stitch pattern.
Gauge varies depending on the yarn, the needle size, and the stitch pattern you use. i Stitch patterns and stitch size The same yarn knitted on the same needles but in different stitch patterns will have different gauges. For example, cables and ribs pull in, requiring more stitches to make a square inch lace and slip stitch or garter stitch patterns spread the fabric out, so they require fewer stitches to make an inch. Figure 3-5 compares the gauges of two different patterns that use the same number of stitches. Gauge on different stitch patterns. Gauge on different stitch patterns.
Work the slip-stitch pattern that creates the Fair Isle look by combining knit and slip stitches on RS rows. Continue the slip-stitch pattern up the leg section. Here, row 15 is being worked using yarn D, while stitches of yarn C from the previous row are slipped. Continue the slip-stitch pattern up the leg section. Here, row 15 is being worked using yarn D, while stitches of yarn C from the previous row are slipped.
Remember, always knit the first and last 3 stitches of every row (even the purl rows) if you're working in stockinette stitch or some other stitch pattern that tends to roll at the edges. This creates a narrow garter stitch border and makes measuring easier. 2. Work 4 inches in stockinette stitch (or the stitch pattern that your pattern calls for). 4. Switch to needles one size larger US 5 (3.75 mm) needles and then work 4 more inches in your stitch pattern.
What's really cool about the stitch patterns that I show you how to make in this chapter (and the jaw-dropping number of other stitch patterns that you can find in other books and online) is that they're often interchangeable. And swapping one stitch pattern for another is an easy way to create something that you can truly call your own. Altering the stitch patterns you use not only inspires your creativity, but it also keeps knitting interesting and fun, even if you want to rely on a set of tried-and-true patterns. Here are some suggestions to get you thinking about substitutions Be aware, though, that different stitch patterns can behave quite differently. For example, using two-stitch twist miniature cables rather than 2 x 2 ribbing may result in a rib that pulls in slightly more. It's a good idea to swatch the different stitch patterns you're considering to see how they'll behave and to prevent unpleasant surprises. If you're substituting stitch patterns, verify that you're...
N couture Knittinq Techniques are translated from dressmaking The result more professionally finishe
Think through all aspects of the garment before beginning and plan the edges accordingly. Various selvages should be swatched with the main stitch pattern and their behavior analyzed. Above all, the selvage must not interfere with the main stitch pattern. A selvage must clearly distinguish itself from the main stitch pattern. Gauge is as crucial to the choice of selvage as the main stitch pattern. The selvage must match the main stitch pattern in row gauge, otherwise it will distort the edge. All shaping should be executed within the main stitch pattern, not the selvage. Additional selvage stitches need nor he added to stitch patterns that already incorporate an edge stitch. Here, the edge stitch itself may be treated as a selvage and additional pattern stitches added to compensate for lost width. If the edge stitch creates too much bulk when turned to the inside for seaming or stitch pick-up, a multiple-stitch selvage that lies flat may be preferred. To produce a firm edge that can...
This pattern is just a big rectangle, so you can work it in any yarn and in any stitch pattern. Here is a chance to showcase an unusual yarn a luxurious hand-dyed wool or a novelty yarn like ribbon or tape. With no shaping to keep track of, you have the freedom to explore something out of the ordinary. The shawl is knit from one side edge to the other. Instructions are given for six gauges in three stitch patterns, but these are just general guidelines. You can play around with needle size and the final size of the shawl to get the look you want.
I If you're knitting in stockinette or a straightforward stitch pattern, a slippery needle makes sense. The fastest ones are nickle-plated brass and call themselves Turbo. Use these and watch your stitches fly by before your eyes. (Also watch for more easily dropped stitches.)
In order to make the gauge swatch, gather up the exact yam and needles that you plan 10 use for your project (e en small differences like yam color and needle brand can affect your gauge ). Cast on a number of stitchcs that will give you at least four inches across, and then work in stockinette stitch 01 the specified stitch pattern until
Knit 22 sts and 36 rows 4 x 4 (10 cm x 10 cm) in Slip Stitch Pattern Stitch Crochet 1 square 5 * 5 (12.5 cm x 12.5 cm) Slip Stitch Pattern Stitch Slip Stitch Pattern Stitch ROW 1 Work Row 1 of Slip Stitch Pattern Stitch. ROW 2 Work Row 2 of Slip Stitch Pattern Stitch. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures QW. Bind oil in pattern stitch.
Ideas for edgings can sometimes be informed by the pattern on the main part of the knit you are designing - such as matching a particular stitch pattern like moss stitch or garter stitch - but sometimes inspiration can come from seeing an eyelet edging on a beautiful linen pillowcase, or a broderie anglaise border on a crisp cotton tablecloth.
Some knitters like to follow patterns down to the last detail, without making any changes. Many other knitters like to alter patterns They choose a different yarn than a pattern specifies, omit a collar, use an alternate stitch pattern, or add embellishments. This book provides a wealth of modifiable knitting patterns and helps you understand how to create your own unique knit designs. A large part of knitting design is math this book does most of the math for you, allowing you to focus on the fun of choosing colors, stitch patterns, and embellishments. Once you've followed a few of the master patterns through, you'll have a good understanding of how hand-knits are designed and constructed. When you're ready to depart from the master pattern and do your own math and invent your own hand-knits, you can consult Chapter 10 for design guidance. Pretty soon, the only things you'll need to start a knitting project will be a few balls of yarn, a pair of knitting needles, and your imagination.
Picking up stitches is relatively simple when you get the hang of it. The rub comes when you painstakingly pick up a cardigan border or neckband according to your pattern instructions. You pick up the exact number of stitches called for, knit the correct number of rows given in the stitch pattern, and bind off the last stitch. Then, after all your effort, you find that your otherwise lovely cardigan has a stretched and droopy button band or that you can't squeeze your head through the neck of your pullover. Your pattern tells you how many stitches to pick up around the neck, but it may or may not tell you how to distribute them so many along the back neck, and so many along the left and right front neck edges. It may be up to you to figure out how many stitches to pick up where. Also, if the gauge on your border pattern is different from the sweater designer's, or if you alter the pattern in any way, your border may not fit as planned. Use your pattern as a guide, but keep a critical...
The best blocking method for your project depends on the fiber of your yarn, the amount of time you have, and the stitch pattern you've used. You can wet block just about anything that's colorfast with superb results. Steam blocking is faster than wet blocking and is fine for sweaters in stockinette stitch and that were worked in a yarn not susceptible to steam damage. But don't use it on acrylics or for stitch patterns with texture you want to highlight especially cables. Read the following list to identify your blocking options for different kinds of yarn, and then go on to the appropriate sections later in this chapter to find out exactly how to steam or wet block.
All the garments so far have had a dropped shoulder, which is a shoulder line that comes down over the top of the arms because there is no shaping at the armhole. On baby designs there is no real need to have complicated arm or sleeve shaping but a good alternative to the dropped shoulder is the square set-in sleeve where stitches are cast off on the body and then the top of the sleeve slotted in and sewn to those cast-off stitches. It is a really simple shape but sometimes the instructions can be confusing to new, or even to more experienced knitters who have not tried them before. Because of this, I have shown the garment with the side and sleeve seams sewn up and before the sleeve has been sewn in (see detailed photograph on page 106). The stitch pattern used is a simple but pretty diamond pattern that shows up well in cotton.
Once youve chosen your yarn the route is clear It goes from sketching to stitchandrow gauge swatchin
Next, make a mental or written notation of all your pertinent body measurements to ensure the best possible fit. And it you plan to make an intricate colorwork or stitch pattern design, you will have to make a chart detailing your stitch or color patterns. The more you knit with varieties of yarns, the more you realize that different yarn types and yarn weights give a distinctly different look and hand when knit. This is why substituting yarns of the same weight may not work when the yarns are of different types. The best way to learn about yarn types and weights is to knit mounds of swatches for your own swatch library. It is helpful to use a good stitch dictionary with a variety of stitch patterns. Tag each swatch with yarn, needle sizes and gauge information. This will be an enormous help when you begin your design selection. Experiment with a yarn knit on various needle sizes until you are satisfied with the results. gauge over the cables and the gauge in reverse or stockinette...
The appearance of a buttonhole has a lot to do with how it fits into the background stitch on which it's worked. A buttonhole that looks great on stockinette fabric may look clumsy on a ribbed band, for example. Take the time to practice a buttonhole in the stitch pattern you're using. Aim to make the buttonhole and stitch pattern work together. If you plan ahead and buy your buttons before working your buttonholes, you can test your buttons in your practice buttonholes to guarantee a good fit.
There are many combinations of knit and crochet stitches that create an almost infinite number of looks. These are called stitch patterns. Sometimes a pattern will instruct you to measure your gauge over a specific stitch pattern. If you see those instructions please follow them, as they're as important to the final size of your project as gauge itself. If the instructions don't specify, test your gauge by making a swatch of stockinette stitch (knit one row and purl the next) if you're knitting, or over single crochet if you're crocheting.
In this example, to switch needles you work to the end of the change row and knit the next row using one of the larger needles. Essentially, you're knitting from the smaller needle to the larger one. At the end of this row, the stitches are now on the larger needle, and the smaller needle is empty. Put aside the smaller needles and continue on in the stitch pattern(s) given in your pattern with the larger needles.
WORKING THE CROSS STITCH The letters and numbers shown on the chart fit into an area 69 stitches by 106 rows. To work the complete alphabet as shown, use tacking thread to outline the stitches and rows indicated by the dotted line on the chart, then tack a base line for each row ot letters. Use a blunt-pointed needle and work the cross stitch from the chart, placing each cross stitch over a knitted stitch, taking care to make all the top diagonals of the cross stitches lie in the same direction. To cross stitch a name and date, plan your design on graph paper. The maximum area that lettering can comfortably be fitted into is 79 stitches bv 110 rows. Mark this area on graph paper, then draw in dotted lines horizontally and vertically to cross at the centre. Place an equal amount of letters at each side of the centre vertical line and aim for no more than five or six letters on each line, with a maximum of six lines. Plan the lettering on the graph paper, adjusting the space between...
Each pattern in this book specifies a tension - the number of stitches and rows per centimetre inch that should be obtained with the given needles, yarn and stitch pattern. Check your tension carefully before commencing work. Use the same yarn, needles and stitch pattern as those to be used for the main work and knit a sample at least 12.5cm 5in square. Smooth out the finished sample on a flat surface, but do not stretch it.To check the tension, place a ruler horizontally on the sample and mark 10cm 4in across with pins. Count the number of stitches between the pins.To check the row tension, place a ruler vertically on the sample and mark 10cm 4in with pins. Count the number of rows between the pins. If the number of stitches and rows is greater than specified, try again using larger needles if less, use smaller needles.
Scarves and shawls, though simple in shape, can encompass many styles. They range from practical warmth-providing garments to decorative accessories. The possibilities are endless You can showcase a special novelty yarn, experiment with a complicated stitch pattern, or simply knit a plain scarf or shawl in the warmest, softest fiber you can find. You can experiment with edgings, pompoms, tassels, and fringe to create your own unique design.
You can knit scarves the long way, casting on a lot of stitches and working back and forth in rows on a long circular needle. This method is good for simple stitch patterns that are easy to keep track of while knitting or for stripes that run the length of the scarf. It is not recommended for lacy yarn-over patterns or complex stitch patterns If you make a mistake, it can be difficult to count back to the problem over so many stitches per row. To work a scarf this way, you first determine the length of the scarf. You check your gauge in the desired stitch pattern and then multiply the scarf length by the number of stitches per inch you achieved in the gauge swatch. You cast on that many stitches and work until the scarf is the desired width. The three scarves pictured in this chapter are worked in different stitch patterns, with instructions included for each in three gauges. If your gauge doesn't match exactly to one of the choices here, don't worry. Simply cast on the number of...
When you work certain patterns you need to keep track of information such as where to increase or when to repeat a particular stitch pattern. Stitch markers are little rings of plastic you use to mark a specific spot in a piece. They are also used to mark the right side or the wrong side of die fabric.
Even the most experienced knitter makes the odd mistake, but there are a few things you can do to try to avoid them, or to make sure you see the error before you have worked too many more rows. First, try out the stitch pattern in some spare yarn beforehand, so you become familiar with the feel of the pattern before you get going. While working the garment, check back frequently to make sure the pattern has been worked correctly. It is far easier and less frustrating to unravel just one or two rows than to have to repeat half a dozen
Another way of checking is with a knit gauge tool (tension gauge). You may be asked to mark a certain number of rows or stitches on the sample. Placing the graduated tool over the sample tells you how many there would be in 4in (10cm). This helps when stitches are too small to be seen properly, or when the stitch pattern makes them difficult to count. A way of counting complex stitch patterns is to measure one or more complete repeats. Knowing, as you do, the number of stitches in each repeat (the stitch pattern instructions will tell you this), you can work out the number of stitches in 4in (10cm) Stitch patterns Together with yarn texture, stitch patterns are the means of obtaining fabric texture. Yarn and pattern go hand in hand Choice of yarn affects the character of stitch patterns. Never decide on a pattern without first knitting up a sample swatch in the yarn you intend to use to check you like the look of it. Character is determined by the structure of the stitch pattern. A...
Begin knitting in the stitch pattern specified. My example calls for stockinette stitch (see Chapter 5 for more about this stitch), but if the directions specify 2 x 2 rib or garter stitch, you must knit your swatch in that stitch pattern instead. Whenever you make a swatch in stockinette stitch or some other stitch pattern that tends to roll, always knit the first and last 3 stitches of every row (even the purl rows) to create a garter stitch border. This makes measuring your swatch easier. Make sure you cast on a few extra stitches to accommodate this border, and measure the gauge between the borders.
Note Be sure your stitch count is compatible with the stitch pattern you choose. Most of the leg patterns are worked on a multiple of 4 sts and will work with all the stitch counts in Table 3. However, there are a few that can be worked only on a multiple of 8 sts. Note Be sure your stitch count is compatible with the stitch pattern you choose. Most of the leg patterns are worked on a multiple of 4 sts and will work with all the stitch counts in Table 3. However, there are a few that can be worked only on a multiple of 8 sts.
The yarn-over increases along the edges of the shawls provide built-in buttonholes. If you are using a bulky yarn, you need large buttons finer yarns require smaller buttons. You probably don't want buttons sewn permanently onto your shawl because they can get caught up in a lacy stitch pattern. Instead, you can make a double-sided button, which works like a cufflink, to hold your shawl closed. You can close your shawl loosely with just one or two double-buttons like the ones shown or space them at even intervals along the edge for a firm closure.
Slip stitch patterns are simple to knit but very effective. This is called a slip stitch pattern. There is a form of slip stitch knitting called mosaic knitting, invented by Barbara Walker, where you work each row twice, first knittlngthe stitches In onecolour and 5fippingtheothers, then the reverse. This is supposed to make iteasierto do colour work with textured stitches. You can knit slip stitch patterns on any type of needle. We featured three designs in ourstltch library in issue 54 and Stitchionary 3 Color Knitting (ISBN 978-1933027029, order from bookshops or www. amazon.co.uk) has a section devoted to slip stitch patterns. Slip stitch patterns crop up in many designs and are not often advertised as such. Try knitting a few samples and you'll soon learn to spotthem.
When designing an Aran sweater (see Cable Panels Class on page 42) a knitwear with large colour motifs, I usually prefer to use a dropped shoulder line rather than a set-in sleeve. The flat 6leeve top and the straight edge of the garment allow me to carry stitch patterns and colourwork knitting straight up the sides without them being interrupted by the decreasing required for armhole and sleeve top shaping. The simpler the shape and the stitch pattern, the more important it is that your techniques fa sewing up are of a really high standard. The seams on simple shapes will show more, and where the shaping has been used to be decaative, as in the Raglan Sweater on page 34, the seams must be as perfect as possible.
Worn together or separately this set can be xvom to he smart or casual with jeans. I he jacket is knitted in moss stitch to give a lovely texture and the fringed edges, which are added after the knitting is complete, add extra style. The sleeveless top is created using a finer yarn in a two-colour slip stitch pattern and also has fringing round the neck.
In the same way that stripes add interest to simple stitches it is possible to enhance a finished knitted piece with embroidery by using cross stitch or working duplicate stitches over the knitting. There is nothing to stop you using knitted fabric as a base for whatever design takes your fancy, but don't get too carried away and remember that simple is generally best. Row 8 knit - this is the start of the garter-stitch pattern.
Cuff stitch pattern, 79, 99 edging stitch pattern, 127, 166 2x2 ribbing cuff stitch pattern, 80, 99 edging stitch pattern, 126, 166 stitch pattern, hand warmer, 117 alternating dotted rib stitch pattern, techniques, 280 balls, hat embellishment, 33, 43 bar increase, techniques, 246 bell rib stitch pattern, techniques, 281 bell sleeves, sleeve shape adjustment, 227 big cable panel stitch pattern, techniques, 285 blanket stitch, embroidery, 274 blends, yarn selection factor, 6 blocking, 146, 252 bobble border stitch pattern, hand warmer, 118 bobbled border, techniques, 287 books, as a source of inspiration, 230 borderless stitch patterns, rectangular shawl, 21 borders, 18, 22, 287 bound-off edge, picking up stitches, 262 braided cable handles, bags, 63 braided handles, bags, 62 bramble (trinity) stitch pattern, scarf, 14 brims, hat treatments, 32, 35-36, 40-41 broken rib stitch pattern, hand warmers, 117 button bands, 147, 158, 208-209 buttonholes, 260-261 buttons, 43 cable handles,...
Stitch Patterns thread around the outer neck edge. Basting is not necessary for edges knitted in ribbing. Stitch patterns are on p. 88. Stitch Patterns Over the next several pages, you will see a wide variety of two- and three-color stitch patterns. They include lattice stitches and brick stitches that change dramatically when felted. These are slip-stitch patterns, in which you use only one color in each row, carrying the nonworking color or colors up the side of your work. When choosing color patterns for felting, try to achieve good color contrast and carefully consider the yarn weight you'll be using. A Potpourri of Stitch Pattern The stitches most commonly used for knitted fabrics that are to be felted are stockinette stitch and garter stitch. After all, why waste time knitting complicated cables, lace or colorwork when felting blurs stitch definition But I've experimented with hundreds of stitch patterns that hold their integrity very well in the felting process and allow you to...
Some designs, particularly Aran styles, are made up of a combination of separate stitch panels which are often given as pattern panels at the beginning of the pattern. This is because the pattern cannot be set out in full for some reason, usually because the row repeat of each individual stitch pattern is not the same. I find it much easier to follow the patterns
Each pattern in this book specifies a tension - the number of stitches and rows per centimetre inch that should be obtained with the given needles, yarn and stitch pattern. Check your tension carefully before commencing work. Use the same yam, needles and stitch pattern as those to be used for the main work and knit a sample at least 12.5cm 5in square. Smooth out the finished sample on a flat surface, but do not stretch it. To check the tension, place a ruler horizontally on the sample and mark 10cm 4in across with pins. Count the number of stitches between the pins. To check the row tension, place a ruler vertically on the sample and mark 10cm 4in with pins. Count the number of rows between the pins. If the number of stitches and rows is greater than specified, try again using larger needles if less, use smaller needles. The stitch tension is the most important element to get right.
Two special terms -wyif and wyib have been coined by the author to clear up a certain ambiguity previously associated with slip-stitch patterns. The plain, bald si 1 so often encountered in other knitting directions usually implies with yarn in back (wyib) on a right-side row, and with yarn in front (wyif) on a wrong-side row. But quite a few patterns require a reversal of this procedure. Therefore the directions in these chapters have no reference to the right or wrong side of the fabric at all. Front is the side that is facing the knitter at the moment when the stitch is slipped, whichever side it may be back is the side that is away from the knitter. With this distinction clearly in mind, you should have no difficulty in working a large variety of delightful slip-stitch patterns. Most of these patterns make dense, firm fabrics. Slip-stitches tend to draw the rows more tightly together than plain knitting, and so in most cases more rows will be required to reach a given length. Some...
Garter stitch is the simplest stitch pattern because it is created by either knitting or purling all the stitches on every row. The fabric it produces is springy and dense in texture and when pressed remains flat. This makes it ideal for use on edges. Stocking stitch is the most well-known stitch pattern and is created by alternating knit and purl rows. This produces a more noticeable difference between the front or knit side, which is smooth, and the back or purl side, which has a more ridged appearance.
Here is a drop-stitch pattern with purled rows on the right side, giving an impression of rough-hewn rectangular blocks set in a wall or pavement. The wrong side of the fabric is attractive, showing deeply indented Color B knit stitches outlined by purl in the manner of the Two-Color Dip Stitch. (See also Four-Color Blister Stitch.)
Stitches between single asterisks are worked in more than one place in a given row or round. When * - * appeal's in a-line of instruction, repeat the stitch pattern previously written between asterisks. Stitches between double asterisks are worked in more than one place in a given row or round. When ** - ** appears in a line of instruction, repeat the stitch pattern previously written between asterisks.
Knit the cuff as you would for top-down socks (see p. 65), in ribbing or another stitch pattern, turning your work at the end of each row. If you are following a pattern that is designed to be knit in the round, you need to convert the stitch patterns to flat knitting on wrong-side rows, stitches that are knits will be purled, and vice versa (purls are knitted).
By the sixteenth century, printed pattern books from Germany and Italy were available in Scandinavia. Even though the patterns were originally designed for embroidery in cross stitch or petit point, they were also suitable for knitting. Weaving patterns were also adapted for knitting, although it was most common to copy directly from a colored fabric or a sampler with many patterns knitted in a strip. many different sources. By the sixteenth century, printed pattern books from Germany and Italy were available in Scandinavia. Even though the patterns were originally designed for embroidery in cross stitch or petit point, they were also suitable for knitting. Weaving patterns were also adapted for knitting, although it was most common to copy directly from a colored fabric or a sampler with many patterns knitted in a strip.
When starting to design an Aran knit, I begin by sketching out simple shapes and then filling them in with linear details of stitch patterns. I like to instil a harmony in the design, and feel that the best way to achieve this is to choose stitch panels that link in some way. It may simply be that a moss stitch centre to a diamond-shaped cable is carried over to moss stitch welts and selvedge borders, or that all the cables and ribs are created by knitting into the back of the stitches, giving them mae definition. The swatches here show the design process behind the Lace Denim Tunic that appeared in my book Family Collection. First I chose a denim cotton yam that does not fade like the blue version, but that shows up textured stitch patterns beautifully- It is a heavy yam, however, so to create a mae delicate openwork look I decided to introduce lace stitches in the design. For me, the design process always begins with knitting up each of my selected stitch patterns in a separate...
This most basic of hats is nicely shaped for just about every head size. Add any stitch pattern you like after knitting the first 5 rounds. If you stop the stitch pattern just before the decreases, you don't have to worry about adjusting the decreases to the pattern. I Method one Pick up 30 stitches on one side of the hat. Decrease at the beginning and end of each row until you're left with 3 stitches. Bind off. On the opposite side of the hat, repeat. If you're adding earflaps to the ribbed cap, you can continue the ribbing on the flaps if you like, or use seed stitch or some other stitch pattern.
Also called Flecked Stitch, Diaper Stitch, Threaded Cross Stitch, etc. This pattern gives a charming diagonal-weave texture, the stitches being drawn upward to right and left crossing under and over one another. There is one preparatory row which is not to be included in subsequent repeats.
Measuring tension over garter stitch is different from over stocking stitch as it is a unique stitch pattern where the rows compress so that it takes two rows to create the distinctive wavy garter stitch ridge. To count the number of rows, count the ridges and multiply by two.
Throe rows are to he worked downwards of Cross Stitch leaving four threads. Three rows more of Cross Stitch arc then to be executed and so proceed till it is finished. Over the space that is left, work (over strips of whalebone) w ith four threads, Economic Stitch double crossed at each end, and cut down the centre with a pen-knife. This has the effect of velvet in lines, and is very elegant.
With a little bit of imagination, you can transform the appearance of a sweater or other knitted garment. Add a simple figure embroidered in duplicate stitch or cross stitch, for example, surrounded by small delicate beads. Choose the monogram desired and determine its position on the garment Then embroider it in duplicate stitch or cross stitch. Following the chart, note that each square on chart represents I knitted stitch in width and 2 rows in length.
The above embroidery stitches have been used in this boook. But there are a multitude of different embroidery techniques that you can apply to your knitting to create different effects. Whether it is a simple blanket stitch edging or pretty flowers, you can let your imagination take hold. If you are wanting a complicated design, draw it out first on tissue paper and pin this to your piece of knitting. Work the embroidery using different stitches such as cross stitch, stem stitch, chain stitch and satin stitch or a combination of stitches. Use yarns in different colours and textures. Be as creative and inventive as you like. You can add in beads by slipping them onto the yarn in between every stitch which creates a lovely sparkle. To add interest to a plain piece of knitting and finish off the edges, you can also use blanket stitch. Worked in a contrast colour, this is a very effective way of finishing off a design. To keep your embroidery neat, use the stitches and rows of knitting as...
.flV When you suspect that your stitch count is changing, it probably is If the yJJL stitch pattern doesn't say anything about the stitch count changing on r l different rows and you suspect that it does, you can sort it out by checking the instructions. Add up the number of yarn overs and decreases (don't forget that double decreases take out 2 stitches) in each row of a written or charted pattern to see if they're the same.
1 Safety pins You can use safety pins to remind yourself which is the right side of your work by pinning them through the fabric on that side (this is particularly helpful when your stitch pattern looks the same on both sides). This way, when the instructions read Decrease at each end every right-side row you know that if you can see the safety pin, it's a decrease row.
Cotton Cotton yarn, made from a natural plant fibre, is an ideal all-seasons yarn, as it is warm in the winter and cool in the summer. I particularly love to work in cotton because it gives a clarity of stitch that shows up subtle stitch patterning, such as a moss stitch border on a collar or cuffs. buying yarn Always try to buy the yarn quoted in the knitting pattern. The designer will have created the design specifically with that yarn in mind, and a substitute may produce a garment that is different from the original. For instance, the design may rely for its appeal on a subtle stitch pattern that is lost when using a yarn of an inferior quality, or a synthetic when used to replace a natural yarn such as cotton will create a limp fabric and the crispness of the original design will be lost. We cannot accept responsibility for the finished product if any yarn other than the one specified is used.
This is a very fancy slip-stitch pattern that does well as a border, though it may be placed in any other context the knitter pleases. Rows 31 and 32 can be repeated indefinitely, to continue the rib lines ail the way up to the top of a garment after the border is completed or, these ribs can lead into another pattern that is worked on a multiple of 9 sts plus 5. Before working this pattern.
The general term used to cover eyelets, faggoting and lace is lace knitting. These form categories on their own, but many stitch patterns overlap between two or even three of them. Lace is the most open variation where the holes and decreases are arranged to form patterns. A lace stitch pattern can be repeated as an all-over fabric or worked as an insertion on stockinette (stocking) stitch. The stitch and row repeat can vary from simple patterns of less than ten stitches and two rows up to complex patterns of 20 or 30 stitches and as many rows. Knit a trio of lace sachets to hold pot pourri or lavender and practise three lace stitch patterns. Knit a trio of lace sachets to hold pot pourri or lavender and practise three lace stitch patterns.
Once you complete the toe, you can add any patterning you like. See Chapter 2 for more information on how to choose stitch patterns to incorporate into your socks. Many stitch patterns appear the same when knit in a different direction ribbing, for example, looks exactly the same if knit from the top down - compare the ribbing on the Basic Top-Down Socks (p. 82) and the Basic Toe Up Socks (p. 134). However, other types of stitch patterns do not appear the same when knit toe-up instead of top-down. If you follow a top-down pattern exactly, cable patterns appear to cross in the opposite direction than intended once you complete the sock. When working from a chart, you can adapt a top-down stitch pattern by reading the chart in the opposite direction simply turn the chart upside-down to read. However, depending on the type of stitch, this might not work because stitches often depend on the preceding stitches when working the chart upside-down, the rounds are in the opposite order as...
If you need to go back a few stitches or even a few rounds to fix an error, you can do so by unknotting, which is when you work backward and take out each new stitch and place it onto the left needle. This method minimizes the risk of dropping or losing stitches, especially in a complex stitch pattern.
Now comes the fun part. What patterns to use There are dozens of traditional Aran patterns, all of them very beautiful, but you need not restrict yourself to these. Any cable or cable-stitch pattern is yours to create with. Leaf through this book and pick out half a dozen that you like. Other patterns not in the cable sections (such as Jacob's Ladder, Twist-Stitch Diamond Pattern, Trinity Stitch, Bobbles, etc.) are also traditionally used for fisherman sweaters but you need not stick to these either. So many hundreds of stunning combinations are possible The only thing that puts any limit at all to your choice is the matter of vertical gauge. For instance, slip-stitch patterns are usually unsuitable because they will require more rows than cables do for a given length. Of course all patterns that you consider using should be tried out first in test swatches.
A seam, or join, has to fit in with the overall design. It can play a decorative role, a functional one, or both. In each case it has to relate to the adjoining stitch pattern(s). In merely functional seams, the fabric should look unbroken. Add selvedge stitches, and plan the pattern repeats to match once the selvedges have been taken in by the seam.
Each symbol indicates rhe way a stitch or group of stitches will b-- worked, the arrangement ol the symfcols on rhe chart determ nes the stitch pattern Usually the symbols resemble the way the stitches appear once knitted The symbol lor a knit stitch for example, is a blank box mimicking the flat appearance oi the knit stitch, the dot symbol for a purl slrtch depicts he bumpy appearance ol a purled stitch
In order to calculate stitch counts and row counts, you need to measure your gauge, as you would for any other knitting project. Using the yarn you've chosen for your sweater and the appropriate needles for that yarn, you knit a 4- or 5-inch gauge swatch in the stitch pattern you plan to use for the sweater. Then you write down your per-inch stitch gauge and your per-inch row gauge. Now you adjust the numbers, if necessary, to suit your stitch pattern. Neck and shoulder stitches should add up to the same number of stitches at the width of the sweater after armhole shaping. To calculate armhole shaping, refer to the master pattern and calculate the new numbers based on your stitch gauge.
Counting Rows in a Stitch Pattern Selvages are edge stitches that are worked differently from the body of a piece of knitting. They create a stable, even edge that makes seaming easier, or that forms a firm, attractive finished border. Selvages also help when you don't want part of your stitch pattern to disappear into the seam.
You should always bind off in pattern, unless the instructions say otherwise. Binding off in pattern is simply working the stitch pattern and binding off at the same time. Your finished project will have a more refined look, and your ribbings will remain elastic. As an example, here is how to bind off in 1 X 1 rib.
Cable needles - are short, double-pointed needles used when moving groups of stitches in cable or twisted stitch patterns. They come in a smaller range of sizes than ordinary needles and those with a kink or bend are easier to use. Split ring markers - these are little clips that can be attached to knitting to mark the beginning of a round in circular knitting, or for marking points in a stitch pattern.
Combine alternating rows of knit and purl stitches to make this fun and funky scarf. Used also in Instant Succcss (see page 52), this thick-and-thin yarn is very forgiving of the occasional mistake. Enjoy the fast-paced thrill and mind-relaxing rhythm of learning the most popular stitch pattern in knitting.
2 Beg with row 1, work in chosen stitch pattern until shawl measures approx 52 inches, or width desired. End with any row for garter rib, row 1 for pillared knot, and row 2 or 6 for seafoam pattern. Just add or subtract a few stitches to come up with a cast-on number that works for your stitch pattern. For instance, for a stitch pattern that is a multiple of 5 sts, change the cast-on number above to the closest multiple of 5.
Here are a few basic cuff options that work well for either mittens or gloves. The ribbed cuff is the most common, probably because the elasticity of the stitch pattern helps keep the mitten on the hand. For this master pattern, you can work the ribbed cuff in single (lxl) rib, or, if your stitch count is divisible by four, in double (2x2) rib. You can double the cuff length if you prefer to fold it over for added warmth or a different look.
Continue the slip-stitch pattern on row 6 by slipping the same stitches from the left to the right needle without working them. This creates a Fair Isle effect. Continue the slip-stitch pattern on row 6 by slipping the same stitches from the left to the right needle without working them. This creates a Fair Isle effect. Rows 5-6 set the slip-stitch pattern as on the upper pieces. Continue in pattern as set the following instructions specify shapings and first row of slip-stitch band only. Row 7 Pattern mik at each end for S only (9 13,11,15 sts). Row 8 Pattern.
Many stitch patterns work beautifully without edgings. You can always crochet or knit a border onto the shawl later if you change your mind. If you want to knit a shawl without a knit-in border, it's a good idea to use a stitch pattern that lays flat. On the other hand, knitting the border right into the shawl allows you more freedom in choosing a stitch pattern without the bother of added finishing later. Garter stitch, seed stitch, ribbing, and even loop stitch are all good border stitch choices.
Patterns describe how to knit a garment, piece by piece, and how to put it together. A photo, materials required, overall measurements, gauge, list of abbreviations, stitch pattern instructions plus special features are also included. Double and treble asterisks (**, ***) may be used to pinpoint sections to be repeated, if single asterisks are being used for the stitch pattern. They could be used, say, for a sequence of raglan shapings on the back, when this is to be repeated on the sleeves.
Easy Still uses basic stitches or easy stitch pattern repeats, easy color work (like stripes), and easy shaping and finishing. Intermediate May include a few different stitch patterns, or simple lace, cables, or intarsia. Might involve using double-pointed needles or circular knitting. More advanced shaping and finishing than the previous level. Experienced Includes more complicated stitch patterns, sophisticated techniques, intricate color work (like fair isle), complex cables, lace, or intarsia, complicated or short row shaping.
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