Toggle Jacket

This Toggle Jacket, which you can see featured in the color insert, is cozy on autumn walks or when the thermostat doesn't kick in. You can forget the pockets if you don't want to bother with them.

^ We provide the instructions for this pattern in the standard way, with lengths measured in inches. But we also tell you the number of rows to knit for each ■ ■ 1 piece because if you knit by the row method, you don't have to figure out where to put the buttonholes — we've already done that for you. (Of course, if your row gauge is different from ours, your sweater and sleeves may be a bit shorter or longer than the length given in the pattern.)

We also include charts of the left and right neckline shapings. If you find it comforting to work from a graph, you may want to chart out the right front piece so that you can track where you are and when to work each buttonhole. Figure 18-3 shows the schematic of the jacket pieces.

-22 (23 1/4, 24 1/2)"-

Figure 18-3:

Schematic of the Toggle Jacket.

Materials and Vital statistics

I Size: Women's small (medium, large). If only one figure is given, it applies to all sizes.

  • Finished chest circumference: 42 (45K, 49) inches
  • Finished length: 26 (27, 28) inches
  • Finished width at upper arm: 17 (18, 18) inches

I Yarn: Tahki Soho Bulky Tweed; 110 yards per 100 grams; 8 (8, 9) skeins; Color: 373; also need 1 skein or partial skein of medium-weight yarn in a color close to the main color for seaming

I Needles: One pair each of size US 10 (6 mm) and US 10% (7 mm) needles

I Other materials: Several yarn holders or scrap yarn to hold stitches; stitch markers or scrap yarn; five toggle buttons

I Gauge: 12 stitches and 16 rows per 4 inches over stockinette stitch using the larger needles

Directions

The following sections break down the instructions for creating this jacket piece by piece.

Back panel

Using size US 10 needles, cast on 66 (70, 74) sts.

Starting with a RS row, work 8 rows in garter st (knit every row).

Next row (RS): Switch to size US 10K needles, and knit.

Next row: Purl.

Cont in St st (knit RS rows, purl WS rows) until back measures 26 (27, 28) inches or 104 (108, 112) rows from beg, end with a WS row.

To separate shoulders:

Work 22 (24, 26) sts, bind off the center 22 sts, and knit the remaining 22 (24, 26) sts. Place the shoulder stitches on holders or thread the stitches onto scrap yarn so they're ready for the three-needle bind-off.

Pocket linings

You need to have your pocket linings ready to go when you work the front panels of the sweater, so it's best to make them in advance.

Using size US 10% needles, cast on 23 sts.

Work in St st until pocket measures 7 inches (28 rows) from beg, end with WS row.

Next row (WS): Bind off 1 st, work to end (21 sts). Place sts on holder. Make another pocket lining the same way.

Left front panel

Using size US 10 needles, cast on 36 (38, 40) sts.

Starting with RS row, work 8 rows of garter st.

Next row (RS): Change to size US 10K needles, and knit.

Next row: K6, pm, purl to end of row. The 6 sts between the edge and the marker make the front border. While you work the rest of the sweater front in St st, you'll be working these 6 stitches in garter stitch.

Cont as established (working 6 border stitches in garter st and the rest of the stitches in St st) until piece measures approximately 9 inches (38 rows) from beg, end with WS row.

Add a pocket:

Next row (RS): K5 (6, 7), place next 21 sts on holder (you'll finish them off later), slide the 21 pocket lining sts from holder to LH needle with RS facing. Knit across these 21 sts, and then knit the remaining 10 (11, 12) sts in the established pattern.

Cont as established until piece measures 23>4 (23%, 24/4) inches or 93 (95, 99) rows from beg, end with RS row.

Count garter stitch ridges up the center front border, RS facing. You're ready to start the neck shaping when you have 46 (47, 49) ridges up the center front (not counting the cast-on ridge at the very bottom edge).

Left front neck shaping (decreases) always takes place on the wrong side of the piece. Right front neck shaping always takes place on the right side of the piece.

Shape the neck (Figure 18-4 shows the chart for the left front neck shaping): Next row (WS): Bind off 9 sts, purl to end.

Next row: Knit.

Next row (WS) dec row: Purl 2, p2tbl, purl to end. Cont to dec at neck edge on WS rows 4 more times (22 [24, 26] sts).

Cont in St st until front is same number of rows as back.

Thread the 22 (24, 26) shoulder sts onto a piece of scrap yarn to secure them.

Figure 18-4:

Chart of Bind off-the Toggle on wrong Jacket's left side front neck shaping.

Right front panel

You work the right front panel the same as the left front panel with these changes: You work buttonholes along the center front border as you go, and you work the neckline shaping on RS rows instead of WS rows.

Using size US 10 needles, cast on 36 (38, 40) sts.

Beginning with a RS row, work 8 rows of garter st.

Next row (RS): Change to size US 10/2 needles, and knit.

Next row: P30 (32, 34) sts, pm, k6 (these 6 sts make the front border).

Cont as established (6 border stitches in garter st, the rest of the sweater front in St st) until piece measures approximately 4K (5, 6) inches or 18 (21, 25) rows (9 [10, 12] garter st ridges from beg), end with a WS row.

Next row (RS) beg buttonhole: K2, make double yo, k2tog, knit to end of row.

To work a double yarn over (double yo), bring the yarn to the front, wrap the yarn over the top and under to the front again. When you knit the next 2 stitches together, the yarn crosses the needle, making two wraps on the needle.

298 Part IV: Making Garments w!_k

A note on counting your rows

The easiest way to count rows in stockinette stitch is to count the purl bumps on the wrong side. They're clearer to see than the Vs on the right side. When you're counting rows on the Toggle Jacket, you can easily identify the first 8 rows of garter stitch border. Start counting the stockinette rows beginning with Row 9.

Use safety pins to help you keep track of the number of rows you've worked. Pin the first stitch you want to count from; then, as you knit, stop every once in a while to count 20 rows and place a safety pin. If you mark as you go, you don't have to count from the very beginning each time.

SjABE/?

SjABE/?

Next row: Purl to marker, knit next 6 sts, including yo.

As you knit into the yo wraps, you'll catch one yarn over and the other will simply slide off the needle.

Next row (RS): K2, knit into hole made by yo (go into the hole as if it were a stitch), knit to end of row.

As you continue to work the right front panel, work the buttonholes on the rows listed, depending on the size of your jacket:

I Size small: Buttonholes on Rows 37, 55, 73, 91 I Size medium: Buttonholes on Rows 39, 57, 75, 93 I Size large: Buttonholes on Rows 43, 61, 79, 97

For all sizes, continue as established until the piece measures approximately 9% inches or 38 rows, ending with a WS row.

Next row (RS): K10 (11, 12) sts, place next 21 sts on holder, slide the 21 pocket lining sts to LH needle with RS facing, knit these sts, knit the remaining 5 (6, 7) sts.

Cont in St st and garter st patterns as established until piece measures 23% (2334, 2434) inches or 94 (96, 100) rows from beg, end with a WS row.

When you have 47 (48, 50) garter ridges up the front, begin the neck shaping:

Next row (RS): Bind off 10 (9, 9) sts, knit to end.

Next row: Purl.

Next row (RS): K2, k2tog, knit to end of row. Cont to dec at neck edge on RS rows 3 (4, 4) more times (22 [24, 26] sts).

Cont in St st until front is same number of rows as back. Thread the 22 (24, 26) shoulder sts onto a piece of scrap yarn.

Sleeve

Using size US 10 needles, cast on 32 (34, 34) sts. Beginning with RS row, work 8 rows in garter st. Next row (RS): Change to size US 10K needles, and knit. Next row: Purl.

Increase row (RS): K2, m1, knit to last 2 sts, m1, k2 (34 [36, 36] sts).

Continue as follows:

For size small: Cont to work in St st, working inc row every 6 rows 9 more times (52 sts).

For size medium and large: Cont to work in St st, working inc row every 6 rows 7 more times, and then every 4 rows 3 more times (56 sts).

After you finish making the increases, work even (that is, without increasing or decreasing) until the piece measures 18 inches from beg.

Bind off stitches if you want to sew the tops of the sleeves to the sweater. Or, if you want to graft the sleeve stitches to the sweater body for a smoother join (see Chapter 16), thread the stitches onto a piece of scrap yarn instead of binding off.

Finishing

Steam block the sweater pieces.

Join the shoulders using the three-needle bind-off shown in Chapter 16. Adding the collar

Using size US 10 needles and with the right side of the jacket facing you, start at the center of the front band and pick up 18 sts to shoulder, pick up 22 sts along back neck, pick up 18 sts to center of front band (58 sts). (For a refresher on picking up stitches, turn to Chapter 17.)

Work in garter st for 12 rows (6 ridges), change to size US 10K needles, and continue in garter st for 12 more rows.

Work 1 more RS row. Then bind off loosely.

Adding pocket trim

Slide the 21 pocket sts placed on holders when you made the left and right front pieces to the LH needle from left to right with the RS facing.

Turn your work so the WS is facing. With the yarn you'll use to knit the trim, make a slip knot on the RH needle, knit the 21 sts, turn work, and cable cast-on 1 more st as follows: Insert RH needle into first st, wrap and pull through a loop, leaving old loop on LH needle. Bring new loop to the right and put it on the LH needle (23 sts). (Chapter 4 covers the cable cast-on.)

Work in garter st for 5 more rows (3 ridges). Bind off in knit sts from the WS for a final garter ridge.

Using your knitting yarn or a smooth medium-weight yarn in a similar color, sew the sides of the pocket trim to the jacket front using the mattress stitch.

Rep these steps with the pocket stitches on the other front.

Sew the pocket linings to the inside of the jacket. Use a strand of the knitting yarn for this task, and work a version of the mattress stitch, going back and forth between running threads on the sweater body and the pocket.

Sewing it all together

Measure down 8K (9, 9) inches on either side of the shoulder seam and mark the armhole with safety pins or yarn markers. Sew or graft the tops of the sleeves to the front and back between the markers.

Sew up the side and sleeve seams using the mattress stitch.

Sew the buttons to the left front jacket band opposite the buttonholes.

Use a smooth medium-weight yarn in a similar color to work the seams. It will be much less bulky than a heavier yarn.

Variations

Try some of the following variations to redesign the Toggle Jacket into a garment all your own:

I Work the entire sweater in garter stitch or the stitch pattern of your choice. See Chapter 5 and Appendix A for ideas.

I Use different buttons — a matching set or five different buttons.

I Make the jacket shorter for a cropped version or longer for a coat.

I Make it in stockinette stitch with "self" edges that roll in a casual fashion, and forget the collar.

Getting to know Elizabeth Zimmerman

There are many ways to knit a sweater (or a hat, or a mitten, or a sock). Knitting legend Elizabeth Zimmerman, in her words, "unvented" many a technique for knitting garments. Her innovative use of circular knitting, her common-sense approach to knitting garments and accessories, and her incomparable wit have earned her a strong following. Look to her books for knitting ideas and basic patterns that allow ample room for your own creative variations:

1 Knitter's Almanac (Dover)

1 Knitting Without Tears (Simon Schuster)

1 Knitting Workshop (Schoolhouse Press)

i Work the sweater without pockets, or add patch pockets instead of hidden ones. For patch pockets, complete the sweater and then knit two squares the size you'd like your pockets to be. Sew them onto the fronts unobtrusively with the mattress stitch, or use a decorative blanket stitch in a contrasting color.

i Make patch pockets and the collar in a different color. Then add 4 or 5 inches to the sleeve in the same color as the pockets and collar, and turn up the sleeves for contrasting color cuffs.

1 Work a little embroidery on the pockets and collar.

Part V

The Part of Tens

heck out this part for exercises to help unkink your knitting muscles, fun gift ideas that you can knit up in a flash, and tips on creating pleasing color combinations.

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