Authentic fair isle sweaters were worked as circular knitting so the right side of the knitting was always facing the knitter. This meant that the pattern was always visible and only knit stitches were used.
Because the knitting was circular there were no seams; armholes and the front openings of cardigans were cut after the knitting was finished. Extra stitches were added for this purpose and they were called steeks; the extra stitches were turned back after cutting and sewn down to prevent the stitches unravelling. Sleeves were picked up around the armholes and knitted down to the cuff, and shoulder seams were grafted.
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