V To work out the stitches and rows per inch (cm), divide the gauge (tension) by 4 (10). For example, 18 sts and 24 rows to 4in (10cm) = 4.5 sts and 6 rows to I in (1.8 sts and 2.4 rows to I cm).

y It is important to work in only imperial or metric measurements, do not use both together y If you find the maths too daunting, chart the garment on to graph paper. Chart the sleeve as per the instructions and then you will be able to see how many increases are made up each side. Chart any side shaping on the front or back. It is always easier to see the shape of the garment rather than try to visualize it from written instructions.

To make the sleeve longer...

simply work more rows after the shaping until the sleeve measures the correct length.

is trickier. A sleeve is increased evenly up its length to get to the required width at the top to fit into the armhole. If you follow the instructions but stop when you reach your required sleeve length you may not have increased enough stitches and your sleeve will be too narrow to fit into the armhole.

Calculate the required increases as described below.

Charting a shorter sleeve Chart your sleeve on graph paper to work out how to space the increases to fit them into your shorter length. On graph paper, one square represents one stitch. Draw a line centrally at the bottom of the sheet, the number of stitches after you have worked the cuff and any increase row. Mark the centre. To work out how many rows you have to work the increases over take the length of the cuff from the sleeve length and multiply this by the number of rows per inch (cm). For example, if your sleeve length is 21 in (53.5cm) with a cuff of 2m (5cm) the length of the sleeve without the cuff is I9in (48.5cm). Multiply this by the row tension, for example, 6 rows to I in (2.4 rows to I cm) =114 rows (I 15.2 rows). Round any fractions down to an even number. Count I 14 rows from the cuff line and draw a line for the top of the sleeve. Draw a vertical line from the centre of the cuff line to the top line. Count out half the number of stitches after ail the increases each side from this central line.

Take the number of cuff stitches (56) from the sleeve top stitches (98) making 42 stitches which means 21 stitches have to be increased at each side of the sleeve. Divide the number of rows by the number of increases, I 14 divided by 21 = 5.4. rounded down to 5.

Mark the first increase on the fifth row and then on every following fifth row until the width is reached.Then draw a straight line from the last increase to the top.There should be at least I in (2.5cm) straight after the last increase. Work from this chart to knit the new shorter sleeve length.

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