Other Dorset Ring Buttons

Hontytomb pattern

Swarm on tr/ Maron Hawttl

Dorset knob irvvin.j

The Dorset high cop .1 talK conical version of the IVirnct knob was ihe fir« needle lace bull on io be produced in southern Lngland The buttons were uny. about 9mm in diameter at the base High tops were used cm mens waistcoats, including the one that King Charles 1 wore Io his execution- Queen Victoria owned a gown lavishly trimmed with Dorset knobs

When the Dorset button industry cuUapscd around i860, the construction method for the Dorset knob was kxt In the 1970* Elisabeth Gilbert of Wincamon. Lngland. experimented with reproducing the knob. She finally resorted to picking apart a valuable an iJquc lo unravel its secret> Originally, the mold was made of j wad of cloth held in j hall shape with glue.

A small disk of horn resembling a modern-day sequin served as a base for the button

The charm ol the Dorset knob i* in the ridges formed by the stitching Use a relatively small thread for the size of the mold to achieve intricately plaited ridge* You can vary the number of ridges, but use enough so that the thread never travels more than tt in between ridges The version described below uses ;• stuffed mold Because it is difficult «o stuff a Urge mold firmly, try to keep this button small. If you need a large knob, substitute a fabric-covered. high-doractl *wd mold for Mimpli in tan on p i9. voull need.

  • I v-ln circle of fabric lo make a Vm stuffed mold
  • 4 It. 30 3 topslitching thread
  • cmbniidcrv needle ro QJ

cn cl o

Use ihc I Vrin circlc oi fabric to make a sfullcd mold (see pp 0-10) Thread the needle and knot the end of ihe thread. Make 12 blanket stitches anmnd the closing of the stuffed mold, as shown in the drawing above. This wjU be the base, or back, of the button Work one dctachcd buttonhole sttlch in each blanket saiich Pull back on each detached buttonhole stitch so that ibe loop is aligned over the corner where two adjacent blanket stitches jncet. Continue working de-

  1. 12 Winter ilKtha m txilf.
  2. Work dciùChed txitlonhaJc mthts over moid
Thread Woven Tapestry

Pass though ric/7 dctAchect txAtOfyfote sfitc/i.

DORSET KNOB

  1. 12 Winter ilKtha m txilf.
  2. Work dciùChed txitlonhaJc mthts over moid

Pass though ric/7 dctAchect txAtOfyfote sfitc/i.

tached buttonholestitchesaround the mold placing one in each stitch af the previous round Again, pull kivk ail tlie stitches so tlut the loops line up cm top cvf each other. The stile lies will form a tidge that spirals toward the cenier front War the center front you will run out of room to work more stitches s» pass the needle through each detached buttonhole stnch. then from (he from ceruri thlough the mold to the center back, .and ne olT If jmi would like a slunk, make a wo ven shank (see how on p H) across ihe bac k

Grindle

S3S3SD

(,runfle in an old njrnr lor a stone Although in terms of icdinique this button h in thr satnc family as the Dorset; buttons, there *.s no v\ idem* tlut this partuular Style was made In the l>orsct button cottage i ndustry Tlie original that I haw is I mm early this century and has a paper mold (remember, paper was mjsde from 100% cotton then J I have included it here because of the similarity of technique^

The Mir fan of lite grimlle is worked ihr sarin as ihe cenier for a Dorset crmswhccl- spokes coveted with backstitches As with the Dor^rt ring buttons, you can change the mold size, the number of spokes and the weight fiber content and color of the thread to create a variety of buttons You mtglvt also weave or embroider other threads over the hackstItches. II you change mold or thread, begin with enough thread so that you dim t have to add more It s impossible to gtf a nom ckanjom lor the mold. I u>e a -in axle cap made lor lo\ wooden vehicles nap sires range Irom • in to in in dlamrter—the cap sues also .ire available tn different heights) I sir ill a hole In the trip ol the cap sir that I can pass the needle mil thread through bo/ saniple in whiif on y 19. von II need

  • in.-diameter, in high domed wv*kJ mold
  • quot;1 >d * id crochel cotton
  • 2-m. cirde o! lining fabtrtc to cove* mold
  • 24 lapestrv needle

Cut a 2-in. circle ol lining lahnc. Line thr mold ac-4.«»ding co instructions on pp 10 II. l ie off tlm-ad thread *30 crochet ootl<>n onto the tapesirv needle knot thread and takr two or three stitches through the lining near the center back to anchor the thread. Use the clock wrap (sec drawing on p 17) xo make 12 spokes for weaving With thread, cwss stitch over the spokes where they meet at the center hack t enter the ctnswiti h and knak hut don t tut the thicjd To anchor vpokes on ihe front go frotn the hack through the cen let hole ami aoss-stttdi cn*r the spokes wlicrr they tnect in thr front center Pull tight but do not cur II the spokes are not evenly spaced, the button will look lopsided, so pick up the spokes on from with the tip ol your needle and align i hem io weave the panetn tiaikstMrh around all 12 spokes until the mold i« ftdly covered, as diown in ihe drawing on p 20 Check spoke spacing each round and adjust il necessary Push thr haricvUtchcs along the spokes toward the center it the lining shows between rounds Knot ihe thread on back ouul cm Sew through the center hack ol ihe butt«»n and through ihe garment fabric to attach ihe button to clothmg. or add a woven shank (set p 11»

Cl O

Button Thread Back

4. Wr.ip \6 spoklt, two fpoto m c*ch ofck'M <fr*afonx.

B Wor* overeat: tsneim ever jcfKer* jpote;.

to center.

c. Wonr reverse frjcksWcfcei

Dorset Buttons

0. Work top SOtCh ovw reverie bjckttrtthei to hold nVm in plKc

VICTORIAN STAR

4. Wr.ip \6 spoklt, two fpoto m c*ch ofck'M <fr*afonx.

B Wor* overeat: tsneim ever jcfKer* jpote;.

to center.

c. Wonr reverse frjcksWcfcei

Son* inroi^r

0. Work top SOtCh ovw reverie bjckttrtthei to hold nVm in plKc t°ntss .11 ihc icrtiei hack To anchor the spoke* on the front. bnn£ the needle and cord 10 ihc from of the button through ihc center hole. Come out in the V between two pjtr* of spokes. Count Around lour prirs of Spokes Crossover the center to this V and pass the needle and cord through the center hole to the hack. Pass the needle and cord up to the from again, coming out in any V. Puss the needle under one of a pair of spokes to weave the pattern, work overcast sotchcs around one spoke from each ol iwo adjacent pans 10 times from the center out (drawing II) I'ull the ovrrcaM stitches tighi so that the two spokes look like one Move back to the center. The cord will lie to one vule of ihc 10 overran sutchc< you just made Use tlic lone spoke and one spoke from the next pair and overcast these tuo spake* 10 timc-v Cxmtinur atotmd the hui ton until all eight pairs of Spoke* have been omtttt lo make the outer paitern. move to the edge by placing the silk cord aJong one spokc of the last paii ovvrcas*. Work a reverse backstitch ovej a pair ol the original *poki %-otu %pokc from each ol mo itdjaccni overcast paus (drawing C >. Continue around the button three times. Then *ork loop studies to hold the re verse backstitches in place (drawing [» I he loop smch starts by taking a small siitch on the back of the button through the lining directly under a spoke I oop the cord to the from of the button o\rr the ihrrc reverse backstitches, under the spoke, and over the three teverse backs(Uchr> on the other side of the spoke Complete ihc loop Mitch b> taking another stitch through ihc lining i n the <imc place as the fust stitch Move to the next spoke on the back of the button and rtp« a< When ibi !«K>p Mm h<s 4fV (Qmpfcttd, tie off the cord Work a woven slunk, il desired, arul cut i he cord

Shirtwaist Buttons

Lace shirtwaist

Shirtwaist buttons arc often confused with Dorset buttons. though they originated in a different place and time I he buttons were used on Edwardian shirtwaists, coordinating well with the lightweight fabrics, and lace trims popular between 1901 and 1910. As cleanliness begin to assume more tmpooanct to people's lives buttons I mil to stand up to "modem" cleaning methods of boiling and blcaching. and to new equipment such as wringers. Because they were made on heavy. Rat metal rinRs. shirtwaist butions could withstand t he ngors of modern cleaning.

I be wrapping method for shirtwaist buttons differs significantly from the wrapping method of Dorset bunons. On shirtwaist buttons the spokes arc formed first, and the ring is covered last I hese butions used several variations on the theme to create different window* and star patterns The patterns require differing tensions on the thread as different pans of the pattern are wrapped, so shirtwaist buttons arc more difficult to master.

These buttons attach to a garment by sewing tip through the spokes, across the center cross-stitch, and back down through ihe spokes on the other side.

The most popular pattern for shirtwaist butions, lace shirtwaist buttons were made in a variety of color* lining the new coiorfast aniline dyes, and in two-tone thread The two-tone buttons had the inner spokes worked in while, and the outer blanket stitches in col or. Cotton, silk, and linen threads wen: all used for this button style for the sampk m champagnc <n right. you'll need;

  • gt;-in. brass ring
  • 30/3 topsiiiching thread
  • 24 tapestry needle.

Lb jy v

First, cut Vh yd. of thread Tie the thread on the ring. Wrap the thread around the ring tightly, crossing center 10 times, and space the spokes evenly around the ring End at center back (see drawing A on p. 32). I his creates 20 spokes

Next, form the circular window in the center using the spokes to anchor the wraps in this round. Counting the last spoke formed as spoke I, count clockwise seven spokes (one-third the number of spokes, more or less) and WTap thread foosely from back to front, anchoring it on the far side of this spoke (see drawing B) Now go back (counterclockwise) one spoke past spoke 1. On the front of the button, wrap lovsdy on the far side of t his spoke (see drawing C).

Tip: If you can't get the thread to anchor on the spokes, move down one or two more spokes (one-tluid the number of spokes plus one. or one-third

Shirtwaist button*; star shirtwaist (in gokj) and lace shirtwaist (in champagne).

Beaded Dorset ButtonsHeirloom Buttons Instructions

Star shirtwaist KVSA.f\t 1

These instructions arc for »1 six-potm star, but you can use this method to work an eight-point *tar. too for iImt fcimpfe in ¿¡old on p. JJ. you'If nerd

  • Mn. brass ring
  • W/J topstiu lung thread
  • 91'I utpcMn needle.

Cui I yd of thread and tie the thtead onto thr ring. Thread the needle onto the long end of the thread about I ft Use the clock wrap 10 wrap throe spokes lightly in each of three positions 12 to 0. ft 10 2. and 10 to -4 o'clock, as shown in drawing A irigh 1)

form the sides of the star next t smg the spokes as anchors, loosely wrap thtee times from ft to 4 o'clock, then three times from 10 to to o'clock, and continue around, making three wraps from 1210 8.2 to 10,4 to 12 and t\ to 2 o'clock lsee drawings R and CV Complete the pattern by passing the thtead tinder the spoke and «dc at 0 o'clock when wrapping the lavi Mdc Io finish the button, work five blanket stitches ovet the ring between two star points, and secure the angle wrap*, by working one blankei stitch over the intersection of the spokr and star sitlrs, as in drawing D. Continue working blanket stitches around the button until completed Tie thread off at center back

Brass Rings For Dorset Buttons

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  • clara young
    How to make dorset buttons?
    8 years ago
  • leonie
    How do shirtwaist buttons attach to a garment?
    9 years ago
  • Rahel
    How to make dorset knob button?
    9 years ago
  • elsa
    How to make dorset buttons designs?
    8 years ago
  • belladonna
    How to make knob dorset buttons?
    8 years ago
  • lillian uy
    How to make beaded dorset buttons?
    8 years ago
  • sago
    How to make woven button?
    7 years ago
  • eugene
    How do you make woven buttons?
    6 years ago
  • alyx russell
    How to make heirloom buttons?
    6 years ago
  • ALBERTA
    How to make basket weave dorset button?
    4 years ago

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