Design by Pam Allen

Originally published Lace Style (Interweave, 2007)

A longtime fan of the traditional feather and fan stitch pattern, Pam Allen worked it on a grand scale for this classic jacket. The structure of this lace pattern-groups of yarnovers alternating with groups of decreases-creates decorative scallops that are preserved in the cast-on edges. To keep this project simple, Pam added very little shaping (the roll-over collar is simply an extension of the fronts) and worked the sleeve increases in panels of stockinette stitch that border the lace motif.

FINISHED SIZE: 33 (36, 39, 45%, 48%)" (84 [91.5, 99, 115.5, 123] cm) bust/chest circumference with center front edges overlapping about 1" (2.5 cm). Sweater shown measures 33" (84 cm).

Yarn: Chunky weight (CYCA #5 Bulky). Shown here: Tahki Kerry (50% wool, 50% alpaca; 90 yd [82 m]/50 g): #5009 green, 9 (10, 11, 12, 14) balls.

Needles: Body and sleeves—size 10% (6.5 mm): straight. Edging—size 10 (6 mm): straight. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions: Markers (m); stitch holders; tapestry needle.

Gauge: 14% stitches and 19 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch with garter ridges using larger needles; 25 stitches (1 pattern repeat) = 6%" (16 cm) and 19 rows = 4" (10 cm) in feather and fan pattern using larger needles, after slightly stretching, blocking, steaming, and being allowed to relax.

Skill Level: Intermediate.

Back

With smaller needles and using the long-tail method (see Glossary), CO 66 (72 (78, 91, 97) sts. Knit 4 rows. Change to larger needles. Row 1: (RS) Knit. Row 2: Purl.

Row 3: K2, [k2tog] 2 (3, 4, 2, 3) times, [yo, k1] 2 (3, 4, 2, 3) times, place marker (pm), work center 50 (50, 50, 75, 75) sts for feather and fan patt as *[yo, k1] 4 times, [ssk] 4 times, k1, [k2tog] 4 times, [yo, k1] 4 times, pm; rep from * 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) more time(s), [yo, k1] 2 (3, 4, 2, 3) times, [ssk] 2 (3, 4, 2, 3) times, k2—2 (2, 2, 3, 3) marked full 25-st reps of feather and fan patt at center, 6 (9, 12, 6, 9) sts for partial patt rep on each side of main patt, 2 edge sts at each end of needle. Row 4: Knit.

Cont in patt until Rows 1-4 have been worked a total of 20 times, ending with Row 4—80 patt rows total; piece measures 17" (43 cm) from CO for all sizes, measured straight up along a single column of sts at center back.

Shape Armholes

NOTES

When working armhole shaping, discontinue the partial patt rep at each side; instead, work the partial rep sts and edge sts as St st on patt Rows 1-3, and knit them on patt Row 4 to form a garter ridge to match the feather and fan patt. BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 7) sts at beg of next 2 rows (Rows 1 and 2 of patt)—58 (64, 68, 81, 83) sts rem; 4 (7, 9, 3, 4) sts on each side of marked full patt reps at center. Cont as established, dec 1 st each end of needle every RS row 3 times, ending with Row 3 of patt—52 (58, 62, 75, 77) sts rem; 1 (4, 6, 0, 1) st(s) on each side of marked full patt reps at center. Work 3 rows even, ending with Row 2 of patt. Reestablish patt on next row as foll: (RS, Row 3 of patt) K1 (1, 0, 0, 1) for edge st, k2tog 0 (1, 2, 0, 0) time(s), [yo, k1] 0 (1, 2, 0, 0) time(s), work center 50 (50, 50, 75, 75) sts for feather and fan patt as *[yo, k1] 4 times, [ssk] 4 times, k1, [k2tog] 4 times, [yo, k1] 4 times; rep from * 1 (1,

1, 2, 2) more time(s), [yo, k1] 0 (1, 2, 0, 0) time(s), [ssk] 0 (1,

2, 0, 0) time(s), k1 (1, 0, 0, 1) edge st—2 (2, 2, 3, 3) marked full 25-st reps of feather and fan patt at center, 0 (3, 6, 0, 0) sts for partial patt rep on each side of main patt, 1 (1, 0, 0, 1) edge st(s) at each end of needle. Cont as established, until armholes measure about 8 (8/, 9, 9, 9/)" (20.5 [21.5, 23, 23, 24] cm), ending with Row 2 of patt.

Shape Shoulders and Back Neck

Work short-rows (see Glossary) as foll:

Short-row 1: (RS) K13 (16, 18, 24, 25), BO center 26 (26, 26, 27, 27) sts, k7 (8, 9, 12, 13), wrap next st, turn.

Short-row 3: K13 (16, 18, 24, 25) to end, working the wrapped st tog with its wrap.

Place the last 13 (16, 18, 24, 25) sts just worked on holder for left back shoulder. With WS facing, join yarn to sts for right shoulder at neck edge.

Short-row 1: (WS) K7 (8, 9, 12, 13), wrap next st, turn.

Short-row 3: P13 (16, 18, 24, 25) to end, working the wrapped st tog with its wrap.

Place sts on holder for right back shoulder.

Right Front

With smaller needles, CO 35 (38, 41, 48, 51) sts. Knit 4 rows.

Change to larger needles.

Row 2: Purl to last 2 sts, k2 (center front sts; work in garter st).

Row3: Establish patt for your size as foll:

Sizes 33 (36, 39)" only: K2 (center front sts), pm, work next 25 sts for feather and fan patt as [yo, k1] 4 times, [ssk] 4 times, k1, [k2tog] 4 times, [yo, k1] 4 times, pm, [yo, k1] 2 (3, 4) times, [ssk] 2 (3, 4) times, k2—2 sts at center front edge,

31/4 (4, 4/2, 6, 61/4)" 41/ (4'/2, 414, 43/4, 43/4|" 8.5 (10, 11.5, 15, 16) cm 11.5 (11.5, 11.5, 12, 12) cm

1.3 cmT

8 (8/2, 9, 9, 912)" 20.5 (21.5, 23, 23, 24) cm"

17" 43 cm

Right Front

31/4 (31/4, 31/4, 31/2, 31/2)" " 8.5 (8.5, 8.5, 9, 9) cm

5 (534, 6, 6, 6/2)" 12.5 (14.5, 15, 15, 16.5) cm "

19 (19, 191/2, 1912, 20)" 48.5 (48.5, 49.5, 49.5, 51) cm

834 (91/2, 101/4, 12, 1234)" 22 (24, 26, 30.5, 32.5) cm

31/ (4, 41/2, 6, 614)" 8.5 (10, 11.5, 15, 16) cm

8 (814, 9, 9, 914)" 20.5 (21.5, 23, 23, 24) cm "

17" 43 cm

Back

161/ (18, 191/2, 2234, 2414)" 42 (45.5, 49.5, 58, 61.5) cm

19 (19, 191/2, 1912, 20)" 48.5 (48.5, 49.5, 49.5, 51) cm

91/ (934, 1014, 11, 111/2)" 23.5 (25, 26.5, 28, 29) cm

1 marked full 25-st rep of feather and fan patt, 6 (9, 12) sts for partial patt rep, 2 edge sts at side seam edge.

Sizes (45V2, 48V2)" only: K2 (center front sts), pm, work next 25 sts for feather and fan patt as [yo, k1] 4 times, [ssk] 4 times, k1, [k2tog] 4 times, [yo, k1] 4 times, pm, work next (19, 22) sts for partial patt as [yo, k1] (2, 3) times, [ssk] (2, 3) times, k1, [k2tog] 2 times, [yo, k1] 4 times, [ssk] 2 times, pm, k2—2 garter sts at center front edge, 1 marked full 25-st rep of feather and fan patt, (19, 22) sts in partial patt, 2 edge sts at side seam edge.

All sizes:

Rep Rows 1-4, working 2 sts at center front in garter st, until Rows 1-4 have been worked 14 times total—56 patt rows total; piece measures about 12" (30.5 cm) from CO for all sizes, measured straight up along the center st of main patt.

Shape Collar

Next row: (RS, Row 1 of patt) K2, yo, slip marker (sl m), work Row 1 of patt as established to end—3 sts in marked center front garter st section. Work 3 rows even in patt, ending with Row 4 and working new st in garter st. Next row: (RS, Row 1 of patt) K2, yo, knit to m, sl m, work Row 1 of patt as established to end—1 st inc'd in center front garter section. Cont in patt, rep the shaping of the last 4 rows 1 more time—38 (41, 44, 51, 54) sts total; 5 sts in garter st at center front. Cont in patt until 19 reps have been completed from CO, then work Rows 1-3 once more to end with a RS row—79 patt rows completed; piece measures about 17" (43 cm) from CO for all sizes measured straight up along center st of main patt.

Shape Armhole

Notes

As for back armhole, discontinue the partial patt rep at side; instead, work the partial rep sts and side seam edge sts as St st on patt Rows 1-3, and knit them on patt Row 4 to form a garter ridge to match the feather and fan patt. BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 7) sts at beg of next WS row (Row 4 of patt)—34 (37, 39, 46,

47) sts rem; 4 (7, 9, 16, 17) sts on side seam edge of main patt. Work Row 1 of patt even. Cont as established, dec 1 st each end of needle on next 3 RS rows, ending with Row 3 of patt—31 (34, 36, 43, 44) sts rem; 1 (4, 6, 13, 14) st(s) on side seam edge of patt. Work 3 rows even, ending with Row 2 of patt. Reestablish patt on next row (Row 3 of patt) as foll for your size:

Sizes 33 (36, 39)" only: K5 (center front sts), work next 25 sts for feather and fan patt as [yo, k1] 4 times, [ssk] 4 times, k1, [k2tog] 4 times, [yo, k1] 4 times, [yo, k1] 0 (1, 2) time(s), [ssk] 0 (1, 2) time(s), k1 (1, 0)—5 garter sts at center front edge, 1 marked full 25-st rep of feather and fan patt, 0 (3, 6) sts in partial patt rep, 1 (1, 0) edge st at side seam edge. Sizes (45V2, 48V2)" only: K5 (center front sts), work next 25 sts for feather and fan patt as [yo, k1] 4 times, [ssk] 4 times, k1, [k2tog] 4 times, [yo, k1] 4 times, work next (13, 14) sts as [yo, k1] (2, 3) times, [ssk] (2, 3) times, k1, [k2tog] (2, 0) times, [yo, k1] (2, 0) times, k(0, 4)-5 garter sts at center front edge, 1 marked full 25-st rep of feather and fan patt, (13, 14) sts in partial patt. All sizes: Cont as established until armhole measures about 8 (8%, 9, 9, 9%)" (20.5 [21.5, 23, 23, 24] cm), ending with Row 2 of patt.

Shape Shoulder

Cut yarn. Work short-rows as foll:

Short-row 1: (RS) Place first 18 (18, 18, 19, 19) sts on holder for collar, rejoin yarn with RS facing, knit to last 7 (8, 9, 12, 13) sts, wrap next st, turn—13 (16, 18, 24, 25) sts rem. Short-row 2: (WS) K6 (8, 9, 12, 12), turn. Short-row3: K13 (16, 18, 24, 25), working the wrapped st tog with its wrap. Place sts on separate holder for right front shoulder.

Left Front

With smaller needles, CO 35 (38, 41, 48, 51) sts. Knit 4 rows. Change to larger needles. Row 1: (RS) Knit.

Row2: K2 for center front sts (work in garter st), purl to end. Row 3: Establish patt for your size as foll: Sizes 33 (36, 39)" only: K2 (edge sts at side seam), [k2tog] 2 (3, 4) times, [yo, k1] 2 (3, 4) times, pm, work next 25 sts for feather and fan patt as [yo, k1] 4 times, [ssk] 4 times, k1, [k2tog] 4 times, [yo, k1] 4 times, pm, k2 (center front sts)—2 edge sts at side seam, 6 (9, 12) sts for partial patt rep, 1 marked full 25-st rep of feather and fan patt, 2 garter sts at center front.

Sizes (45V2, 48V2)" only: K2 (side seam sts), pm, work next (19, 22) sts in modified patt as [k2tog] 2 times, [yo, k1] 4 times, [ssk] 2 times, k1, [k2tog] (2, 3) times, [yo, k1] (2, 3) times, pm, work next 25 sts for feather and fan patt as [yo, k1] 4 times, [ssk] 4 times, k1, [k2tog] 4 times, [yo, k1] 4 times, pm, k2 (center front sts)—2 edge sts at side seam; (19, 22) sts in partial patt, 1 marked full 25-st rep of feather and fan patt, 2 garter sts at center front.

All sizes:

Rep Rows 1-4, keeping 2 sts at center front in garter st, until

Rows 1-4 have been worked 14 times total—56 patt rows total; piece measures about 12" (30.5 cm) from CO for all sizes, measured straight up along the center st of main patt.

Shape Collar

Next row: (RS, Row 1 of patt) Work in patt to last 2 sts, sl m, yo, k2—3 sts in marked center front garter st section. Work

3 rows even in patt, ending with Row 4 and working new st in garter st. Next row: (RS, Row 1 of patt) Work in patt to marked section for center front sts, sl m, knit to last 2 sts, yo, k2—1 st inc'd in center front garter section. Cont in patt, rep the shaping of the last 4 rows 1 more time—38 (41, 44, 51, 54) sts total; 5 sts in garter st at center front. Cont in patt until Rows 1-4 have been worked a total of 20 times, ending with Row 4—80 patt rows total; piece measures 17" (43 cm) from CO for all sizes, measured straight up along a single column of sts at center back.

Shape Armhole

NOTES

As for back and right front armholes, discontinue the partial patt rep at side; instead, work the partial rep sts and side seam edge sts as St st on patt Rows 1-3, and knit them on patt Row

4 to form a garter ridge to match the feather and fan patt. BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 7) sts at beg of next RS row (Row 1 of patt)—34 (37, 39, 46, 47) sts rem; 4 (7, 9, 16, 17) sts on side seam edge of main patt. Work Row 2 of patt even. Cont as established, dec

1 st each end of needle on next 3 RS rows, ending with Row 3 of patt—31 (34, 36, 43, 44) sts rem, 1 (4, 6, 13, 14) st(s) on side seam edge of patt. Work 3 rows even, ending with Row

2 of patt. Reestablish patt on next row (Row 3 of patt) as foll for your size:

Sizes 33 (36, 39)" only: K1 (1, 0), k2tog 0 (1, 2) time(s), [yo, k1] 0 (1, 2) time(s), work next 25 sts for feather and fan patt as [yo, k1] 4 times, [ssk] 4 times, k1, [k2tog] 4 times, [yo, k1] 4 times, k5 (center front sts)—1 (1, 0) edge st at side seam edge, 0 (3, 6) sts in partial patt rep, 1 marked full 25-st rep of feather and fan patt, 5 garter sts at center front edge.

Sizes (45V2, 48V2)" only: Work (13, 14) sts for partial patt as k(0, 4), [k1, yo] (2, 0) times, [ssk] (2, 0) times, k1, [k2tog] (2, 3) times, [yo, k1] (2, 3) times, work next 25 sts for feather and fan patt as [yo, k1] 4 times, [ssk] 4 times, k1, [k2tog] 4 times, [yo, k1] 4 times; k5 (center front sts)—(13, 14) sts in partial patt, 1 marked full 25-st rep of feather and fan patt, 5 garter sts at center front edge. Note: For size 45%" the sts in the first square bracket are deliberately worked in reverse order as k1, yo instead of yo, k1 to avoid having a yo at the selvedge. All sizes: Cont as established until armhole measures about 8 (8%, 9, 9, 9%)" (20.5 [21.5, 23, 23, 24] cm), ending with Row 1 of patt.

Shape Shoulder

Work short-rows as foll:

Short-row 1: (WS, Row 2 of patt) K5 center front sts, p13 (13, 13, 14, 14), place 18 (18, 18, 19, 19) sts just worked on holder for collar, purl to last 7 (8, 9, 12, 13) sts, wrap next st, turn—13 (16, 18, 24, 25) sts. Short-row2: (RS) K6 (8, 9, 12, 12), turn. Short-row 3: P13 (16, 18, 24, 25) to end, working the wrapped st tog with its wrap. Place sts on holder for left front shoulder.

Sleeves

With smaller needles, CO 36 (38, 40, 42, 44) sts. Knit 4 rows. Change to larger needles. Row 1: (RS) Knit. Row 2: Purl.

Row 3: K6 (7, 8, 9, 10), pm, [k2tog] 4 times, [yo, k1] 8 times,

Cont in patt until Rows 1-4 have been worked a total of 12 times, ending with Row 4—48 patt rows total; piece measures 10%" (26 cm) from CO for all sizes measured straight up at center. Inc row: (RS, Row 1 of patt) K2, M1 (see Glossary), work in patt to last 2 sts, M1, k2—2 sts inc'd. Work new sts in St st on patt Rows 1-3, and knit them on patt Row 4 to form a garter ridge to match the feather and fan patt. Cont in patt, inc 1 st each end of needle in this manner every 8 (6, 6, 0, 0) th row 2 (5, 2, 0, 0) times, then every 6 (4, 4, 4, 4)th row 3 (1, 6, 9, 10) time(s)—48 (52, 58, 62, 66) sts. Cont as established until piece measures 19 (19, 19%, 19%, 20)" (48.5 [48.5, 49.5, 49.5, 51] cm) from CO measured straight up at center, ending with a WS row.

Shape Cap

BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 7) sts at beg of next 2 rows—40 (44, 48, 52, 52) sts rem. Dec 1 st each end of needle every other row 3 (4, 6, 14, 7) times, then every 4th row 3 (3, 2, 0, 1) time(s), then every other row 2 (3, 4, 0, 6) times—24 center patt sts rem; cap measures about 5 (5%, 6, 6, 6%)" (12.5 [14.5, 15, 15, 16.5] cm) measured straight up at center. BO all sts.

Finishing

Stretch pieces firmly to finished measurements and pin them in place. To create the effect of faux waist shaping, stretch the hem and bustline areas of back and fronts wider than waist sections. Steam-block and allow to air-dry. Place sts for right front and right back shoulders on smaller needles. Hold shoulder sts with RS facing tog and use larger needle and the three-needle method (see Glossary) to join shoulder sts tog. Join left back and left front shoulders in the same manner.

Left Collar

Return held 18 (18, 18, 19, 19) sts of left front to larger needles, and join yarn with RS facing. Reestablish patt on next row (Row 3 of patt) as foll: K1 (1, 1, 2, 2), [k2tog] 4 times, [yo, k1] 4 times, k5 (center front sts). Cont in established patt until collar extension reaches to center back neck, about 3% (3%,

3%, 3%, 3%)" (8.5 [8.5, 8.5, 9, 9] cm), ending with RS Row 3

of patt. Shape collar using short-rows as foll:

Row 1: (WS) Knit to last 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts, wrap next st, turn.

Knit across all sts, working wrapped sts tog with their wraps. Place sts on holder.

Right Collar

Return held 18 (18, 18, 19, 19) sts of right front to larger needles, and join yarn with RS facing. Reestablish patt on next row (RS; Row 3 of patt) as foll: K5 (center front sts), [yo, k1] 4

times, [ssk] 4 times, k1 (1, 1, 2, 2). Cont in established patt until collar extension reaches to center back neck, about 3% (3%,

3%, 3%, 3%)" (8.5 [8.5, 8.5, 9, 9] cm), ending with WS Row 2

of patt. Shape collar using short-rows as foll:

Row 1: (RS) Knit to last 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts, wrap next st, turn.

Knit across all sts, working wrapped sts tog with their wraps. Return held sts of left collar to smaller needle. Hold ends of collar tog with WS facing tog and use larger needle and the three-needle method to join ends of collar tog; the welt from the join will be on the RS of the body but will not show on the public side of the garment when the collar is folded back. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew collar selvedge to back neck. Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve and side seams. Weave in loose ends. Lightly block seams again. —

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