Design by Sigridur Halldorsdottir adapted by Carol Rasmussen Noble

Knitting For Profit Ebook

Knitting For Profit Ebook

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Originally published Piecework Magazine, July/August 1996

Called the Thordfs shawl, the original of this traditional Icelandic shawl is part of the Icelandic Craft Council's collection of textiles. It is thought to have been knitted by Thordfs Egilsdottir, a resident of a small fishing village on the west coast of Iceland well known for her craftsmanship with handspun yarns. She used very fine thel (the fine, soft undercoat of the Icelandic sheep) in natural white and shades of moraut (soft brown). This pattern, which captures the spirit of the original, was designed by Icelandic knitter Sigrfdur Halldorsdottir and translated and adapted for PieceWork readers by Carol Noble.

Finished Size: The finished shawl measures 76 inches (193 cm) across the shoulder edge and 37 inches (94 cm) deep at the center back.

Yarn: Fingering-weight wool yarn. Shown in Jaggerspun Maine Line 2/8 (100% wool; 22 40 yd [2048 m]/16 oz [454 g]): natural (white), 3% oz; graphite (dark gray) and arrowhead (gray-beige), 1 oz each; suede (medium brown) and sable (dark brown), % oz each; pewter (light gray), shale (medium gray), sand (beige), and black, 1% oz each. Yarn available in smaller than 1-lb units from Halcyon Yarn (www.halcyonyarn. com) and other suppliers.

Needles: Size 4 (3.5 mm): 32-inch (81.2-cm) circular knitting needle.

Notions: Steel crochet hook, size B/2 (2.5 mm); markers (optional).

Skill Level: Intermediate. NOTES

Carol's shawl is knitted in a fingering-weight yarn in natural and several dyed shades. For a more traditional shawl, you may wish to use Icelandic lace-weight yarn spun from Icelandic wool. Use stitch markers between pattern repeats and at center back if desired.

Carol originally suggested the two-needle chain cast-on or the thumb cast-on, which are the equivalent of the Long Tail or Continental cast-on.

The directions occasionally call for knitting a wrong-side row with a new color which produces "blips" of the old color on the right side of the fabric. This is a deliberate effect to minimize the difference between the right and wrong sides of the shawl.

The charts show most of the right-side pattern rows. Please refer to the row-by-row instructions for how to work wrong-side rows, transitional rows between charts, and the repeated section at the end of Chart D.

Charts B, D, and F show only the first half of right-side rows, with arrows indicating the shawl center. Read each chart row from right to left for the first half of the shawl, then read the chart row backwards from left to right for the second half, reversing the direction of the single decreases. In other words, for the second half of the shawl, substitute k2tog for each ssk symbol and vice versa. The k3tog double decreases are not reversed, and are worked as k3tog throughout the entire row.

Chart B is worked on an even number of stitches with the center of the shawl between the two center stitches on the needle. For Chart B, work each row from right to left, then work the entire row again reading from left to right as explained above. This means you will work a k3tog both before and after the center marker as you reverse the chart direction.

Charts D and F are worked on an odd number of stitches with the center of the shawl positioned exactly on a single center stitch. For these charts, the last stitch of each chart row is the center stitch which is not repeated when you read the chart in reverse. Work to the end of the chart row, work the last stitch once, then begin reading the chart from left to right starting with the second-to-last stitch of the row.

If you're still not certain how to reverse the patterns for halfcharts B, D, and F, the written directions spell out exactly how to work each row. Compare the row-by-row instructions with the charts to understand the reversal better, or work these rows from the text directions.

The original shawl was not finished along its top edge, but you may choose to work the optional top border if desired.

Shawl

With white, cast on 339 stitches loosely on the circular needle using a cast-on method that results in an elastic edge. Work back and forth on the circular needle.

Rows 1, 3, and 5: (Wrong side facing) Knit. See Chart A for Rows 2-12 .

Row 6: Change to gray-beige, k3, *p1, k2, ppso (see Abbreviations in Glossary), yo; rep from * until 3 sts rem, k3.

Row 8: K1, *yo, p1, k2, ppso; rep from * until 2 sts rem, k2.

Rows 10 and 12: Repeat Rows 2 and 4.

Row 13: K168, k2tog, place marker to mark center back, k169—338 sts.

Row 14: Change to dark gray, k1, * k3tog, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3*; rep from * to * 14 times more, k3tog; rep from * to * 15 times, k3tog, k1—334 sts. See Chart B for Rows 14-36. Row 15 and all following odd-numbered rows through Row

35: K1, purl to last st, k1. Row 16: K1, k3tog, k2, *yo, k2, yo, k3, k3tog, k3*; rep from * to

  • 13 times more, [yo, k2] twice, k3tog twice, k2; rep from * to
  • 14 times, [yo, k2] twice, k3tog, k1—330 sts.

Row 18: K1, k3tog, k1, *yo, k2, yo, k3, k3tog, k3*; rep from * to

  • 13 times more, yo, k2, yo, k1, k3tog twice, k1; rep from * to
  • 14 times, yo, k2, yo, k1, k3tog, k1—326 sts.

Row 20: Change to medium gray, k1, k3tog, *yo, k2, yo, k3, k3tog, k3*; rep from * to * 13 times more, yo, k2, yo, k3tog twice; rep from * to * 14 times, yo, k2, yo, k3tog, k1—322 sts. Row 22: K1, k2tog, *k2, yo, k3, k3tog, k3, yo*; rep from * to * 13 times more, k2, ssk, k2tog; rep from * to * 14 times, k2, ssk, k1—318 sts.

Row 24: K1, k2tog, k1, *yo, k3, k3tog, k3, yo, k2*; rep from * to

* 12 times more, yo, k3, k3tog, k3, yo, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1; rep from * to * 13 times, yo, k3, k3tog, k3, yo, k1, ssk, k1—314 sts.

Row26: K1, k2tog, *yo, k3, k3tog, k3, yo, k2*; rep from * to * 12 times more, yo, k3, k3tog, k3, yo, ssk, k2tog; rep from * to * 13 times, yo, k3, k3tog, k3, yo, ssk, k1—310 sts. Row 28: Change to light gray, k5, *k3tog, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3*; rep from * to * 12 times more, ssk, k3, ssk, [k2tog, k3] twice, yo, k2, yo, k3; rep from * to * 12 times, k3tog, k5—306 sts. Row 30: K4, *k3tog, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3*; rep from * to * 12 times more, ssk, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3; rep from

Row 32: K3, *k3tog, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3*; rep from * to * 12 times more, ssk, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3; rep from

Row 34: K2, *k3tog, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3*; rep from * to * 12 times more, ssk twice, k2tog twice, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3; rep from * to

Row 36: K1, *k3tog, k3, yo, k2, yo, k3*; rep from * to * 12 times more, k3tog; rep from * to * 13 times, k3tog, k1—290 sts. Row 37: Change to white, knit.

Rows 38 and 40: K1, k2tog, purl to last 3 sts, ssk, k1—286 sts after Row 40. See Chart C for Rows 38-56. Rows 39 and 41: Knit.

Row 42: Change to gray-beige, k1, k2tog, k1, *p1, k2, ppso, yo;

rep from * until 3 sts rem, ssk, k1—284 sts. Rows 43 and 45: K1, purl to last st, k1. Row 44: K1, k2tog, k1, *p1, k2, ppso, yo; rep from * until 4 sts rem, k1, ssk, k1—282 sts.

Row 46: Change to white, k1, k2tog, knit until 3 sts rem, ssk, k1—280 sts.

Rows 47 and 49: Knit.

Rows 48 and 50: K1, k2tog, purl until 3 sts rem, ssk, k1—276 sts after Row 50.

Row 51: Change to gray-beige, k1, purl to last st, k1.

Row 52: K1, k2tog, *p1, k2, ppso, yo; rep from * until 3 sts rem, ssk, k1—274 sts.

Row 54: K1, k2tog, *p1, k2, ppso, yo; rep from * until 4 sts rem, k1, ssk, k1—272 sts.

Row 56: K1, k2tog, purl until 3 sts rem, ssk, k1—270 sts.

Row 58: K1, *k3tog, [k1, p1, k1] into next st; rep from * until 4 sts rem, k3tog, k1—267 sts. See Chart D for Rows 58-122 .

Row 59 and all following odd-numbered rows: Knit.

Row 60: Ssk, *k3tog, [k1, p1, k1] into next st*; rep from * to * 31 times more, k3tog, k1; rep from * to * 32 times, k3tog, k2tog—261 sts.

Row 62: Ssk, k3tog, *[k1, p1, k1] into next st, k3tog*; rep from * to * to 3 center back sts, k3tog twice; rep from * to * until 2 sts rem, k2tog—8 sts dec'd.

Row 64: Repeat Row 62.

Rows 65-122: Repeat Rows 63 and 64 twenty-nine more times—13 sts.

Rows 123 and 125: Knit.

Break yarn and thread through remaining 3 sts to fasten off.

Lace Border

With right side facing and white yarn, pick up and knit 339 sts along the cast-on edge of the shawl. This counts as Row 1 of

Chart E. See Chart E for Rows 3-15.

Row 2 and every following even-numbered row: K1, purl to last st, k1.

Row 3: K3, *p1, k2, ppso, yo; rep from * until 3 sts rem, k3.

Row 5: K1, *yo, p1, k2, ppso; rep from * until 2 sts rem, k2.

Row 7: Change to gray-beige, knit.

Row 11: Change to white, k2, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 13: Change to gray-beige, knit.

Row 15: Change to beige, k1, k2tog, knit rem sts of row—338 sts.

Row 17: K2, k2tog, yo, *ssk, k7, k2tog, yo; rep from * until 4 sts rem, ssk, k2—307 sts. See Chart F for Rows 17-31. Row 19: K3, yo, k1, *[yo, ssk] twice, k1, [k2tog, yo] twice, k1; rep from * until 3 sts rem, yo, k3—309 sts. Row 21: Change to medium brown, k3, [yo, k1] twice, *yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k3tog, yo, k2tog, [yo, k1] twice; rep from * until 4 sts rem, yo, k1, yo, k3—373 sts. Row 23: [K3, yo] twice, k1, *yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k1; rep from * until 6 sts rem, [yo, k3] twice—437 sts. Row 25: K3, yo, k5, yo, k1, *yo, k5, yo, k3tog, yo, k5, yo, k1; rep from * until 8 sts rem, yo, k5, yo, k3—501 sts. Row 27: Change to dark brown, k3, yo, k7, yo, k1, *yo, k15, yo, k1; rep from * until 10 sts rem, yo, k7, yo, k3—565 sts. Row29: K3, yo, k5, yo, k4, yo, k1, *yo, k4, yo, k9, yo, k4, yo, k1;

rep from * until 12 sts rem, yo, k4, yo, k5, yo, k3—691 sts. Row 31: Knit.

Break yarn. With right side of shawl facing, fasten black yarn to one corner of shawl with crochet hook. Ch 10, sc next 3 sts of border together, *ch 10, sc next 3 sts of border together, [ch 10, sc next 4 sts of border together] twice; rep from * until 6 sts of border rem, [ch 10, sc next 3 sts of border together] 2 times. Fasten off.

Top Border (optional)

With right side facing and beige, pick up and knit about 362 sts along top edge of shawl (about 8 sts for every 7 rows). The exact stitch count is not critical as long as there are enough sts so top edge can stretch to the correct blocked dimensions, but not so many sts that the edge ruffles. Knit 1 wrong-side row. Change to medium brown and knit 2 rows. Change to dark brown and knit 2 rows. Change to black and knit 1 row. Using black, bind off all sts on next row as if to knit.

Finishing

Darn in the loose ends of yarn. Soak the shawl in cool water until it is thoroughly wet. Squeeze gently, then roll the wet shawl in towels to absorb the excess water. Lay the damp shawl on dry bath towels spread on the carpet, bed, or other flat area. Stretch the shawl to its final size. Pin in place, starting with the center back; then pin the shoulder edge and the shorter edges. Finally, pin each crocheted loop out to a point. When the shawl is completely dry (this may take several days), remove the pins. —

Suppliers

Halcyon Yarn, 12 School St., Bath, ME 04530. (800) 341-0282.

www.halcyonyarn.com Schoolhouse Press, 6899 Cary Bluff, Pittsville, WI 54466. (715) 884-2799. Icelandic lace-weight yarn. www.schoolhousepress.com

Further Reading

Halldorsdottir, Sigridur. Thrihyrnur og Langsjol. Reykjavik: Heimilsdhnadharfelag Islands, 1988

Special thanks to Margaret Johnson and Louise Heite for their invaluable assistance.

Chart A

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Chart D

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Key k2tog ssk

(See Abbreviations)

k3tog

|o] yo

  • k1,p1,k1] in next st t center back (See Notes) ffl pi, k2, ppso (See Abbreviations)
  • no stitch

Chart key updated 7/23/07

Copyright Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

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