Here are stepbystep instructions on exactly how to work stitch and row gauge into the size and shape

you like. Once you have determined the appropriate needle size, you can then make the other two swatches.

In our example, using a medium-weight wool with a size 6 needle, the gauge over reverse stockinette stitch is 6 stitches and 8 rows to 1". As you can see from the photo, we have measured the entire center cable panel, which is 7" and has 42 stitches. We have done the same with the zigzag pattern over 16 stitches, which equals 2The row gauge of these two patterns is identical to the reverse stockinette stitch gauge of 8 rows to 1". This is important to ensure the consistency of the row gauges.

Ordinarily we would begin our calculations with the back of the sweater. But since we want the diamond pattern to end with a full repeat before the front neck shaping, we will start with the front.

Begin by calculating the pattern placement on the front. This will determine the total number of stitches. Use the schematic drawing from your original sketch and place all your patterns and measurements on the drawing, as we have done.

The width of the front piece above the ribbing is 22". Since the diamond panel is going to be in the center of the piece, and we know it measures 7" wide, we can determine the width of the fabric on either side of the diamond panel by subtracting 7"

from 22" and dividing by two. Thus 22" minus 7" equals 15", divided by two equals So there will be of fabric on each side of the cable, f On each side of the center cable there is a zigzag pattern that is placed in the wnter of each shoulder. At this point it is necessary to jump ahead to figure out the width of each shoulder after the armhole decreases. The two shoulders plus the neck width add up to the cross back (measurement from shoulder to shoulder), which we know to be 20". The neck width is 7" on the schematic. Therefore, 20" minus 7" equals 13," divided by two equals 6!^" for each shoulder.

THE FIRST—AND ABSOLUTELY THE MOST ESSENTIAL-STEP IS TO DETERMINE YOUR GAUGE.

To center the zigzag pattern on the shoulders, subtract 1V{ (the width of the zigzag in the gauge swatch) from 6V:\ The result is 4", which divided by two equals 2". Work 2" in reverse stockinette stitch on either side of the zigzag above the armholes, and 3" at the side edges below the armholes. As you can see, the width of the sweater is determined by the particular patterns and their gauges.

The row gauge of the patterns is important in determining the length of the sweater. In our example, the row gauge is 8 rows to 1". The desired total length is 30". When you subtract the 2" of ribbing, that leaves 28" for the length of the cable patterns. One full diamond cable repeat is 52 rows. Divide that by 8 (rows per inch), and the result is 6V"—the total height of one diamond pattern.

Let s start with five repeats of the diamond. By multiplying 5 times 6K" we find that our length above the ribbing (not including the neck drop) will be 32^", which

  • according to our schematic is much too long. Four full repeats would give us 26".
  • That leaves exactly 2" to work the neck shaping. However, if it doesn't work out so

Perfectly, it may be necessary to adjust the finished length of the piece in order to fit

Hfrnill repeat, or you can add or subtract ribbing from the lower edge if it s only a latter of an inch or so.

You are ready to draw the patterns on the schematic and determine the pHfiber of stitches you will need by using the various stitch gauges. As you can see P011* the schematic, there will be a total of 134 stitches and 22" above the ribbing: 18 Patches (3") in reverse stockinette stitch (rev St st), 16 stitches (2M") in zigzag pattern, 12 stitches (2") in rev St st, 42 stitches (7") in center cable pattern, 12 stitches (2") in

Stockinette Stitch Stst

The schematic shows a total of 134 stitches, measuring 22 inches in width, above the ribbing. On either side of a 42-stitch center-cable pattern are 12 stitches in reverse stockinette, then 16 stitches in zigzag, and. at the edges. 18 stitches in reverse stockinette.

rev St st, 16 stitches (2Av) in zigzag pattern, 18 stitches (3") in rev St st.

To shape the armholes, decrease 6 stitches (1") on each side for a cross back measurement of 20". For the angled armhole, we decreased 1 stitch each side every other row six times for a total of 122 stitches. Next, figure out the shoulder and neck shaping. For each shoulder you are decreasing 40 stitches (6^"). The shoulder depth is 8 rows (1"). Since you can only hind off from one shoulder on every other row (at the beginning of the row) you need to divide the stitches as evenly as possible over 4 rows. So you bind off 10 stitches from each shoulder edge four times.

The neck shaping is more difficult to calculate. You know that you need to decrease 42 stitches in 16 rows (2") while creating a nice curve. Experiment with graph paper until you find the right curve. To see the actual curve, knitters graph paper is especially helpful since it corresponds to the actual gauge. For a more general approach, bind off about 3" to 4 worth of stitches at the center, then divide the remaining decreases in half. It is best to bind off 2 to 4 stitches a few times, then 1 stitch until you finish the shaping. For our example, bind off the center 24 stitches (4"), which leaves 9 stitches each side to decrease in 14 rows. After that, bind off from each side 3 stitches once, 2 stitches once, then decrease 1 stitch every other row four times tor a total of 42 stitches bound off in 14 rows. Work the 2 remaining rows even. This process takes a little trial and error. When calculating any shaping, be sure always to keep in mind both the stitch and row gauges of each pattern used, and how decreasing in the various patterns will affect the look of the finished piece.

The back piece is worked the same as the front, omitting the neck shaping.

Now that you know the basics of converting inches to stitches, figuring the sleeve is quire simple. Since it is knitted entirely in reverse stockinette stitch, only one gauge is involved.

There are just a few points to remember when working out the sleeve. To get the most accurate sleeve length, rake your measurement from the center back neck to the wrist. Subtract half the cross back measurement (10") from this total measurement, add about 1" tor ease, and you have your total sleeve length.

As this style has an angled armhole, the width at the top of the sleeve should be twice the armhole depth (10" times 2 equals 20").

You should also shape the top 1" (8 rows) of the sleeve exactly like the armhole shaping—that is, bind oft 1 stitch at each end every other row 6 times.

To be sure that your cuff is not too loose or too tight, make a small swatch in ribbing and base the number of stitches on this gauge. —-

Epipen Needle Size And Gauge Junior

Jr r

Gauge tends to vary with different patterns, even when yarn and needle size remain the same. So it's essential to measure all patterns in a sweater. Shown here is the entire center cable pattern, which measures 7 inches and has 42 stitches. To get the most accurate reading, do not use the edge of the tape measure, and make sure it is straight.

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Responses

  • russom
    What equals a row of stitches?
    6 years ago
  • myley mclean
    HOW TO DECREASE AT EACH SIDE OF ROW?
    6 years ago
  • eliza
    What is 20 minus 7 equals?
    6 years ago
  • Kiros
    How to measure gauge in reverse stockingnette stitch?
    6 years ago
  • Olivier
    How do you measure a cable pattern for gauge?
    4 years ago

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