How To Sew Pocket Lining To Knit Sweater

Sew the open stitches oi the hem to the body by inserting a sewing needle into part of one body stitch (to prevent the stitching from showing on the right side) and through one stitch on the hem as shown. Keep the hem even by sewing through stitches along the same horizontal row of the sweater.

Cast Stitch Round Loom


You must work rapid increases on either side of the neck opening. Mark the three corner stitches. Work a "make one" increase on either s de of these stitches on every round. This will allow the hem to lie flat when sewn down.

by Mari Lynn Patrick

  • You can make a separate pocket lining or knit the lining while making your front(s). Separate linings should he made before other pieces of your sweater. To make a lining, cast on 2 stitches more than the number of stitches to he hound off for your pocket opening. When desired pocket depth is achieved, slip stitches to a holder so that your next row will he worked from wrong side. BE SURE TO MAKE LININGS IN Tl IE SAME COLOR AND PATTERN AS YOUR SWEATER.
  • If your yarn is very bulky, knit the top l!^-2 74-5cm of your pocket lining in the same yarn as used for the sweater front and the remainder in a lighter-weight yarn.
  • Fabric pockets, which are folded in half and hem-stitched, can be used in place of knitted pocket linings to reduce bulk. Just remember to knit a lH-274-5cm pocket lining to prevent the fabric from showing on your finished sweater.
  • When your sweater is knit in a double strand of yarn, hidden pocket linings should be done in a single strand. Check the gauge on your single strand.
  • A pocket lining can be knit as a double length with a separate needle and then folded in half on wrong side and worked back in place with the remaining stitches [Figure 1]. Sides of the lining are stitched closed, and pocket lining stays free. This type of lining should only be made for a lightweight garment.

If you have never made pockets, or wish to add pockets when the pattern doesn't call for any, begin by deciding on the pocket size and where you wish to place the pocket(s). The average size for a woman's pocket is 5-6^"/12.5-16.5cm wide by 5-77M-17.5cm deep. You can add 172.5cm to that in each direction for men and subtract 172.5cm or more for small children.

The lower edge of a horizontal or patch pocket should end no further than 21 or 22 '/53 or 56cm down from the shoulder on a woman's sweater. If your sweater is short, 22 756cm or shorter in length, you should plan a vertical or side seam pocket for easier wear. 1 lorizontal or patch pockets should be placed from 2—476.5-10cm from each side of center front edge and can end at the top of the ribbing or higher if

sweater is extra-long.

A scaled-to-size sketch of your tronr pieces will hest illustrate your pocket placement BEFORE you start knitting.

Patch pockets may he the easiest to knit, hut neatly sewing them to your fronts can he tricky! Hems of VzjX .25cm can he added on 3 sides to give a sharp turning edge to your pocket. For example, work MM/1.25cm tightly in stockinette stitch, then purl the next row on right side for turning ridge and work even tor ^fl/1.25cm more and cast on 2 to 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for side hems. Work inside stitch ot each side hem in a slip stitch for turning ridge to the end ot your pocket. The last K-%71.25-2cm can be worked in ribbing or your chosen edge stitch before binding off.


Work with your stitch gauge to determine the pocket openings size, placement and number of stitches to bind off. Bind off on the right side of work the desired number of stitches (or slip stitches to a holder). If your gauge is 6 stitches = 172.5cm and you want a 5M7l4cm-wide pocket, you would multiply 5>4 by 6 = 33 stitches to be bound off. On the next (wrong side) row, join your separate pocket lining to your pocket

[o enina as follows: Work across stitches of front to last stitch before opening and with wrong side of pocket lining facing, work last stitch of front together with first stitch of lining—then work across lining stitches (from holder), working last stitch of locket lining together with first stitch of front—work to end—pocket lining joined.


If you want a pocket opening on the front, work in pattern to the placement of the pocket opening, attach a separate ball of yarn and bind off 1 or 2 stitches, then continue along the pattern to the end of the row. Work in pattern on each side of the pocket opening with separate balls of yarn to the planned pocket depth. To rejoin the pocket opening, beginning on right side of front, work in pattern to the pocket opening, cast on 1 or 2 sts, drop second ball of yarn and continue to the end of the row.

To make a pocket lining in the side seam on the back section of your sweater, cast on stitches for desired lining width to each side seam and work to planned pocket depth. Bind off these stitches and continue on back as before [Figure 2].

You can also pick up stitches later along the outside pocket opening (nearest seam edge) and knit these stitches for pocket lining [Figure 3]. Or simply make a separate lining and sew in.

Slanted or Curved

SLANTED openings are worked in the same way as vertical openings with decreasing at inside edge of opening (side nearest center front) worked to desired slant. The outer side of the pocket opening is worked straight with a separate ball of yarn, as for a vertical pocket opening. BE SURE that your number of stitches cast on for the lining is at least 3-4 stitches WIDER than the total number of stitches decreased for slant. » .CURVED openings are worked in a similar wary to the s'ant pocket opening—take inspiration for your shape from an armhole curve with its bind-offs and decreases. Both slant and Curved p<x'kets are definitely for more experienced knitters.





r^^rvci CL'OCO

Ribbing to match that of a sweater's edges is frequently used as a pocket edging. Pick up the stitches along the bound-off edge with the same size needle used for edge ribbing, adding 2 or 3 stitches. Work edge for Vi-V\\l.25-2cm, then bind off loosely enough so that edge is elastic. Garter stitch also makes a neat edge and should be worked tightly without increases. Yoti can also experiment with seed stitch, rolled reverse stockinette stitch, or crocheted edges.

If you want to avoid picking tip and sewing down pocket edges, there is an ingenious way to knit edges into fronts BEFORE binding off. First, plan your edge to begin at Vi-Y* 71.25-2cm down from top of pocket opening. On the next right-side row, centering pocket where desired, work pattern to designated stitches tor pocket opening, place a marker, then if you are working ribbing, increase 2 to 3 stitches across pocket area (BEING SURE to begin and end with the same stitch), place a second marker, and complete your row. Continue in pattern on stitches at each side of markers and work pocket edge in ribbing as established, slipping markers on every row, for ^-%7l.25-2cm. On the next right-side row, bind off stitches between markers in rib, and pocket edging is complete [Figure 4|. Then follow steps for inserting pocket lining on next row.



Before sewing, pocket linings should be blocked to size along with the other pieces of your garment, then sewn to the wrong side of fronts using an overcast stitch. First baste or pin linings in place so that stitches and rows match exactly—straight seaming is important! Next, carefully take single stitches so that seaming is invisible on the right side.

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