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above: Fluted Fabric Stitch below: Fluted Fabric Stitch in two colors

Jacquard Stitch
Jacquard Stitch

This handsome, well-bred "weave" can be varied in many ways. Its lines need not zigzag; they can be worked as continuous diagonals simply by repeating the first six rows only (for a left diagonal) or the last six rows only (for a right diagonal). Or, the zigzag pattern can be made larger, by continuing the diagonals for a greater distance before turning (i.e., work the first six rows twice, then the last six rows twice, making 24 rows to a repeat). The pattern can be worked also on different multiples, with 3, 5, or 6 plain knit stitches between the slipped stitches; or the woven strands can span 3 stitches instead of 2. Any version is good for making a quietly elegant fabric that will enhance suits, coats, tailored dresses, classic sweaters, cushions, gloves, etc.

Multiple of 6 sts plus 4.

Row 1 (Right side)—Kl, * si 2 wyif, k4; rep from *, end si 2, kl.

Row 2—Pi, si 1 wyib, * p4, si 2 wyib; rep from end p2.

Row 5—K5, * si 2 wyif, k4; rep from *, end si 2, k3.

Row 6—P2, * si 2 wyib, p4; rep from *, end si 1, pi.

Rows 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12—Repeat Rows 6, 5, 4, 3. and 2.

Jacquard Stitch

Jacquard Diamonds

Jacquard Diamonds

These are not "real" diamonds. They are adjoining chevrons, worked horizontally, alternating so as to touch at each crest. If a plain horizontal-wave effect is wanted, Rows 1-10 will give the single chevron pattern.

Multiple of 16 sts plus 1.

Row 1 (Right side)—Kl, * kl5, si 1 wyif; rep from *, end kl6.

Row 2—Pi, si I wyib, * pi3, si 3 wyib; rep from *, end last repeat si 1, pi instead of si 3.

Row 3—Kl, * si 2 wyif, kl 1, si 2 wyif, kl; rep from *.

Row 4—P2, * si 2 wyib, p9, si 2 wyib, p3; rep from * end last repeat p2.

Row 5—K3, * si 2 wyif, k7, si 2 wyif, k5; rep from *, end last repeat k3.

Row 6—P4, * si 2 wyib, p5, si 2 wyib, p7; rep from *, end last repeat p4.

Row 7—K5, * si 2 wyif, k3, si 2 wyif, k9; rep from *, end last repeat k5.

Row 8—P6, * si 2 wyib, pi, si 2 wyib, pi 1; rep from *, end last repeat p6.

Row 9—K7. * si 3 wyif, kl3; rep from end last repeat k7.

Row 10—P8, * si 1 wyib, pi5; rep from end last repeat p8.

Rows II, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18—Repeat Rows 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, and 2.

Repeat Rows 1-18.

Double Knit Fabric

Double Knit Fabric

Contributed by Eugen K. Beugler, Dexter, Oregon

This pattern resembles ribbing on the right side, and a purl fabric on the wrong side. Actually, it is neither. It is a very soft, thick, cosy fabric for warm winter sweaters and really cuddly afghans. This is not the same thing as Double Knitting, which has two separate sides to it (See A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, p. 99).

Odd number of sts.

Row 1 (Right side)—Kl, * si 1 wyib, kl; rep from *. Row 2—Kl. * pi, kl; rep from *

Repeat Rows 1 and 2.

Vandyke Swag Stitch

Vandyke Swag Stitch

Vandyke Swag Stitch

The Swag Stitch technique is used here to make a beautifully "tailored" fabric for suits, jackets, and coats. It is very easy to work, and so even a beginner can use it to make clothes with a trim fashion look.

Multiple of 5 sts plus 2.

Row 1 (Wrong side) and all other wrong-side rows—Kl, purl to last st, kl.

Row 2—Kl, * si 3 wyif, p2; rep from *, end kl. Row 4—Kl, pi, * si 3 wyif, p2; rep from *, end si 3, pi, kl. Row 6—Kl, * p2, si 3 wyif; rep from *, end kl. Row 8—Kl, si 1 wyif, * p2, si 3 wyif; rep from *, end p2, si 2, kl.

Row 10—Kl, si 2 wyif, * p2, si 3 wyif; rep from *, end p2, si 1, kl.

Repeat Rows 1-16.

Vandyke Swag Stitch

above: Dimple Stitch, right side below: Dimple Stitch, wrong side

Dimple Stitch

Slipped strands, caught up 4 rows later, are used to pull this bold, puffy fabric together. The wrong side, which might serve just as well as a right side, shows a deep honeycomb formation in purl stitches.

Multiple of 6 sts plus 5. Row 1 (Right side)—Knit.

Rows 2 and 4—Kl, * si 3 wyif, p3; rep from *, end si 3, kl. Row 3—Kl. * si 3 wyib, k3; rep from *, end si 3, kl. Rows 5 and 7—Knit. Row 6—Purl.

Row 8—Kl, pi, * insert needle from below under the 3 loose strands of Rows 2, 3. and 4, and knit next st, bringing st out under strands; p5; rep from *, end last repeat pi, kl instead of p5. Row 9—Knit.

Rows 10 and 12—Kl, * p3, si 3 wyif; rep from *, end p3, kl. Row 11—K4, * si 3 wyib. k3; rep from *, end kl. Rows 13 and 15—Knit. Row 14—Purl.

Row 16—Kl, p4, * knit next st under 3 loose strands of Rows 10, 11, and 12; p5; rep from *, end last repeat p4, kl.

above: Dimple Stitch, right side below: Dimple Stitch, wrong side

Blind Buttonhole Stitch

Sweater Dress Knitting Pattern
Blind Buttonhole Stitch

Deeply sunk in a heavy purl fabric, these buttonless "buttonholes" make winter sweaters and sportswear with plenty of texture. The wrong side is a surprise bonus—an attractive design of horizontal welts formed of slipped strands and purl stitches.

Multiple of 10 sts plus 2.

Rows 1, 3, and 5 (Wrong side)—Knit. Rows 2 and 4—Purl.

Rows 6, 8, and 10—K6, * si 5 wyib, k5; rep from *, end si 5, kl.

Rows 7 and 9—Kl, * si 5 wyif, p5; rep from *, end kl. Rows II through 15—Repeat Rows 1 through 5. Rows 16, 18. and 20—Kl, * si 5 wyib, k5; rep from *, end kl. Rows 17 and 19—Kl, * p5, si 5 wyif; rep from *, end kl.

Repeat Rows 1-20.

Blocks and Bars

Blocks and Bars

This fabric must be felt to be appreciated. It is so dense and cosy as to seem almost like a double-knit. With its attractive checkerboard design, it makes wonderful coats, lap robes, cushions, and heavy outdoor sweaters. The wrong side looks like stockinette stitch, with tighter and looser stitches arranged in blocks between purled scallops.

Multiple of 24 sts plus 3. Row 1 (Wrong side)—Purl.

Row 2—Kl, si 1 wyib, * (pi, si 1 wyif) 5 times, pi, (si 1 wyib.

p2) 4 times, si 1 wyib; rep from *, end kl. Row 3—Kl, * (pi. k2) 4 times, pi, (si 1 wyib, kl) 5 times, si

1 wyib; rep from *, end pi, kl. Rows 4 through 12—Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 4 times more; then repeat Row 2 again. Row 13—Purl.

Row 14—Kl. * (si 1 wyib, p2) 4 times, si 1 wyib, (pi, si 1 wyif)

5 times, pi; rep from *, end si 1 wyib, kl. Row 15—Kl. pi, * (si 1 wyib, kl) 5 times, si 1 wyib, (pi, k2)

4 times, pi; rep from *, end kl. Rows 16 through 24—Repeat Rows 14 and 15, 4 times more; then repeat Row 14 again.

Repeat Rows 1-24.

Jewel Cross-Rib

This is a beautiful old pattern derived from a simple Block Stitch, making a very sophisticated texture that resembles small cables enclosing ovals of garter stitch. Its curved and interwoven lines draw the eye into intricate designs, but the pattern is very simple to work.

Multiple of 7 sts plus 1.

Rows 1, 3, and 5 (Wrong side)—P3, * k2, p5; rep from *, end k2, p3. Rows 2, 4, and 6—Knit.

Rows 7 and 9—K2, * si I wyif, k2, si 1 wyif, k3; rep from *, end last repeat k2. Row 8—K2, * si 1 wyib, k2, si 1 wyib, k3; rep from *, end last repeat k2.

Row 10 K2, * drop first sl-st off needle to front of work, si next 2 sts to right-hand needle, drop second sl-st off needle to front of work; then pick up the first dropped st onto left-hand needle, si the same 2 sts back to left-hand needle, then with point of right-hand needle pick up the second dropped st and replace it on left-hand needle; k7; rep from end last repeat k6.

Repeat Rows 1-10.

Slip-Stitch Smocking

Contributed by Ifildegard M. Eisner, Aldan, Pennsylvania Multiple of 8 sts plus 7.

Row 1 (Right side)—Kl, * si 1 wyib, k4, pass sl-st over the 4 knit sts, p3; rep from *, end last repeat kl instead of p3.

Row 2—Kl, pi, * kl, knit 1 st under running thread between the st just worked and the next st, kl, p5; rep from *, end last repeat pi, kl instead of p5.

Row 5—K2, * p3, si 1 wyib, k4, pass sl-st over the 4 knit sts; rep from end p3, k2.

Row 6—Kl, * p5, kl, knit 1 st under running thread, kl; rep from *, end p5, kl.

Jewel Cross-Rib

Slip-Stitch Smocking

Twice-Turned Stitch

Wrapping Stitch Twice
above: Twice- Turned Stitch below: Twice-Turned Ribbing

This attractive, deep-textured fabric has stitches that are turned once as slipped, and a second time as they are knitted through the back. (See Twice-Turned Check.) The variation, below, is even deeper in texture and has the appearance of a ribbing, though not much elasticity. Either version is nice for thick, cosy jackets, coats, and blankets.

Row 2—Kl, * keeping yarn in back, insert needle from the left into back loop of next st, as if to pl-b, and slip the st from this position; kl; rep from *. Row 3—PI, * si 1 wyif, pi; rep from *. Row 4—Kl, ♦ kl-b, kl; rep from

Repeat Rows 1 -4.

VARIATION: TWICE-TURNED RIBBING

Odd number of sts.

Row 1 (Wrong side)—Kl, * pi, kl; rep from *. Row 2—Pi, * slip next st from back as in Row 2 above; pi; rep from *.

Row 3—Kl, * si 1 wyif, kl; rep from *. Row 4—PI, * kl-b, pi; rep from *.

Repeat Rows 1-4.

Slip-Cross Open Cable

Note: On right-side (even-numbered) rows si all sl-sts wyib. On wrong-side (odd-numbered) rows si all sl-sts wyif.

Panel of 10 sts.

Row 1 (Wrong side)—K3, pi, k2, pi, k3. Row 2—P3, si 1, p2, si 1, p3. Row 3—K3, si I, k2, si 1, k3.

Row 4—PI, si the next 2 purl sts, drop next st off needle to front of work, si the same 2 purl sts back to left-hand needle, pick up dropped st and knit it, p4, drop next st off needle to front of work, p2, pick up dropped st and knit it. pi. Rows 5 and 7—Kl, pi, k6, pi, kl. Row 6—Pi, kl, p6, kl, pi. Row 8—PI, si 1, p6, si 1, pi. Row 9—Kl, si 1, k6, si 1, kl.

Knitting Coin Cable Patterns
center pasfa.:-Slip-Cross Open Cable side panels: Slip-Cross Coin Cable

Row 10—PI, drop next st off needle to front of work, p2, pick up dropped st and knit it; p2, si the next 2 purl sts, drop next st off needle to front of work, si the same 2 purl sts back to left-hand needle, pick up dropped st and knit it, p3.

Row 14—P3, drop next st off needle to front of work, si the 2 purl sts, drop next st off needle to front; then holding the 2 purl sts on right-hand needle, pick up the first dropped st onto left-hand needle, then si the 2 purl sts back to left-hand needle; then pick up the second dropped st and return it to left-hand needle; then kl, p2, kl across these 4 sts; p3.

Repeat Rows 1-14.

Slip-Cross Coin Cable

Panel of 9 sts.

Row 6—P2, drop first sl-st off needle to front of work, si next 3 sts, drop second sl-st off needle to front; then holding the 3 knit sts on right-hand needle pick up the first dropped st onto left-hand needle; then si the 3 knit sts back to left-hand needle; then with point of right-hand needle pick up the second dropped st and place it on left-hand needle; then k5, p2.

Repeat Rows 1-8.

Slip-Cross Double Cables

These are pretty cables, easy to work, and done without any-actual cabling. Other arrangements of slipped and slip-crossed stitches in the cable form arc possible, but these three will serve as a demonstration. If desired, the twist row may be omitted from Versions I and II, by working Row 2 in these versions the same as Row 2 of Version III.

All three versions: Panel of 12 sts.

Notes: Right Slip-Cross (RSC), worked on 4 sts: drop 1st sl-st off needle to front of work, si the next 2 purl sts, drop 2nd sl-st off needle to front of work; then with left-hand needle pick up the 1st dropped st, then si the same 2 purl sts back to left-hand needle, then with right-hand needle pick up 2nd dropped st and place it on left-hand needle; then kl, p2, kl across the 4 sts.

Left Slip-Cross (LSC), worked on 4 sts: drop 1st sl-st off needle to front of work, si the next 2 purl sts, drop 2nd sl-st oif needle to front of work; then si the 2 purl sts back to left-hand needle, pick up the 2nd dropped st and knit it, p2, then pick up the 1st dropped st and knit it.

Knit Complicated Cables

Slip-Cross Double Cables left: Version I,

"Opening" Cable with Left Twist right: Version II,

"Closing" Cable with Right Twist center: Version III,

Medallion Cable with Purl Twist

Slip-Cross Double Cables left: Version I,

"Opening" Cable with Left Twist right: Version II,

"Closing" Cable with Right Twist center: Version III,

Medallion Cable with Purl Twist

VERSION I:

"OPENING" CABLE WITH LEFT TWIST

Row 1 (Wrong side)—K2, pi, k2, p2, k2, pi, k2. Row 2—P2, kl, p2, skip next st and knit in back of 2nd st. then knit in front of skipped st, then si both sts from needle together; p2, kl, p2. Row 3—Repeat Row 1.

Row 4—P2, si 1 wyib, p2, si 2 wyib, p2, si 1 wyib, p2. Row 5—K2, si 1 wyif, k2, si 2 wyif, k2, si 1 wyif, k2. Row 6—P2, RSC, LSC, p2.

Repeat Rows 1-6.

VERSION II:

"CLOSING" CARLE WITH RIGHT TWIST

Work the same as Version I, with the following exceptions:

Row 2—P2, kl, p2, skip next st and knit in front of 2nd st, then knit in front of skipped st, then si both sts from needle together; p2, kl, p2. Row 6—P2, LSC, RSC, p2.

VERSION III:

MEDALLION CABLE WITH PURL TWIST

Row 1 (Wrong side)—K2, pi, k2, p2, k2, pi, k2. Row 2—P2, kl, P2, k2, p2, kl, p2.

Row 3—K2, pi, k2, skip next st and purl the 2nd st, then purl the skipped st and si both sts from needle together; k2, pi, k2. Row 4—Repeat Row 2. Row 5—Repeat Row 1.

Row 6—P2, si I wyib, p2, si 2 wyib, p2, si 1 wyib, p2.

Row 7—K2, si 1 wyif, k2, si 2 wyif, k2, si 1 wyif, k2.

Rows 12 and 13—Repeat Rows 6 and 7.

Repeat Rows 1-14.

Bud Stitch

In both Bud Stitch and Cornflower Pattern, each motif consists of five "made" stitches, like a bobble; but these increased stitches are differently handled. In Bud Stitch they are drawn all together to make a clump, five rows later. In Cornflower Pattern they are fanned out to each side. Both patterns make a novel and intriguing texture, the Bud Stitch being a little more highly embossed.

Note: The 3 stitches slipped knitwise in Rows 6 and 12 of this pattern are slipped all together, not one at a time. Insert needle into 3rd, 2nd, and 1st stitch in that order, and slip them off.

Multiple of 10 sts plus 2.

Row 2—K8, * (kl, yo, kl, yo, kl) in next st, k9; rep from *, end last repeat k3.

Row 3—P3, * purl the 5 new sts wrapping yarn twice for each st, p9; rep from *, end last repeat p8.

Row 4—K8, * si 5 wyib dropping extra wraps, k9; rep from *, above: Bud Stitch end last repeat k3. below: Cornflower Pattern

Row 5—P3, * si 5 wyif, p9; rep from end last repeat p8.

Row 6—K8, * si 3 knitwise—k2 tog—p3sso, k9; rep from *, end last repeat k3.

Row 8—K3, * (kl, yo, kl, yo, kl) in next st, k9; rep from *, end last repeat k8.

Row 9—P8, * purl the 5 new sts wrapping yarn twice for each st, p9; rep from end last repeat p3.

Row 10—K3, * si 5 wyib dropping extra wraps, k9; rep from *, end last repeat k8.

Row 11—P8, * si 5 wyif, p9; rep from *, end last repeat p3.

Row 12—K3, * si 3 knitwise—k2 tog—p3sso, k9; rep from *, end last repeat k8.

Repeat Rows 1-12.

Cornflower Pattern

See Bud Stitch.

Multiple of 18 sts plus 2.

Row 1 (Right side)—K5, * (kl, yo, kl, yo, kl) in next st, kl7; rep from \ end last repeat kl4.

Row 2—PI4, * purl the 5 new sts wrapping yarn twice for each st, pi7; rep from *, end last repeat p5.

Row 3—Kl, * si 4 wyib. drop first elongated st off needle to front of work, si the same 4 sts back to left-hand needle, pick up dropped st knitwise and si it onto left-hand needle; then k2 tog-b (the elongated st and the next st); k3, si 3 wyib dropping extra wraps, drop last elongated st off needle to front, si 4 wyib, pick up dropped st onto left-hand needle, si the same 4 sts back to left-hand needle; k3, k2 tog (the last of the 4 sts and the elongated st); k9; rep from *, end kl.

Row 4—P14, * si 3 wyif, pi7; rep from end lasl repeat p5.

Row 5—K2, * si 3 wyib, drop next elongated st off needle to front, si the same 3 sts back to left-hand needle, pick up dropped st knitwise and si it onto left-hand needle; then k2 tog-b; k2, si 1 wyib, drop next elongated st off needle to front, si 3 wyib, pick up dropped st onto left-hand needle, si the same 3 sts back to left-hand needle; k2, k2 tog, k 11; rep from

Row 7—KI4, * (kl, yo. kl, yo, kl) in next st, k 17; rep from *. end last repeat k5.

Row 8—P5, * purl the 5 new sts wrapping yarn twice for each st, pi7; rep from *, end last repeat pi4.

Row 9—K10, rep from * of Row 3; end last repeat kl instead of k9.

Row 10—P5, * si 3 wyif, pi7; rep from *, end last repeat pi4.

Row 11—Kl I, rep from * of Row 5; end last repeat k2 instead of kl 1.

Repeat Rows 1-12.

Sprig Pattern

Here is an ingenious texture stitch to place all over your pastel spring sweater or your little girl's party dress. The directions are long, but the pattern is very easy to learn in one repeat.

Multiple of 16 sts plus 5.

Notes: Right Cross (RC)—si 1 purl st wyib, drop next (slipped) st off needle to front of work, si the same purl st back to left-hand needle, pick up dropped st and knit it, pi.

Left Cross (LC)—drop (slipped) st off needle to front of work, pi, then pick up dropped st and knit it.

Inc 5—(kl, yo, kl, yo, kl) in the same st. All slip-stitches on wrong-side rows are slipped with yarn in front.

Row 1 (Right side)—P2, * inc 5, p3, kl, p3; rep from *, end p3. Row 2—K3, * k3, si 1, k3, p5; rep from * end k2. Row 3—P2, * k5, p3, inc 5, p3, k5, p3, kl, p3; rep from *, end p3. Row 4—K3, * k3, si 1, k3, pi, p3 tog, pi, k3, p5, k3, pi, p3 tog, pi; rep from end k2.

Row 5—P2, * si 1—k2 tog—psso, p3, k5, p3, si 1—k2 tog—psso, p3, kl, p3; rep from *, end p3.

Row 6—K6, * si 1, k7, pi, p3 tog, pi, k7; rep from *, end last repeat k6. Row 7—P6, * si 1—k2 tog—psso, p5, p2 tog, (kl, yo, kl) in next st, p2 tog, p5;

rep from *, end last repeat p4. Row 8—K5, * si 1, pi, si 1, kl3; rep from *. Row 9—P12, * RC, kl, LC, pi 1; rep from end last repeat p4. Row 10—K4, * (si 1, kl) twice, si 1, kll; rep from *, end kl.

Row 11—Pll, * RC, pi, kl, pi, LC, p9; rep from *, end last repeat p3. Row 12—K3, * (si 1, k2) twice, si 1, k9; rep from *, end k2. Row 13—P10, * RC, p2, kl, p2, LC, p7; rep from *, end last repeat p2. Row 14—K2, * (si 1, k3) twice, si 1, k7; rep from *, end k3. Row 15—P3, * p3, kl, p3, inc 5; rep from end p2. Row 16—K2, * p5, k3, si 1, k3; rep from end k3. Row 17—P3, * p3, kl, p3, k5, p3, inc 5, p3, k5: rep from *, end p2. Row 18—K2, * pi, p3 tog, pi, k3, p5, k3, pi, p3 tog, pi, k3, si 1, k3; rep from *, end k3.

Row 19—P3, * p3, kl, p3, si 1—k2 tog—psso, p3, k5, p3, si 1—k2 tog—psso; rep from *, end p2.

Row 20—K6, * pi, p3 tog, pi, k7, si 1, k7; rep from *, end last repeat k6. Row 21—P4, * p2 tog, (kl, yo, kl) in next st, p2 tog, p5, si 1—k2 tog—psso, p5;

rep from end pi. Row 22—* K13, si 1, pi, si 1; rep from *, end k5. Row 23—P4, * RC, kl, LC, pll; rep from end pi. Row 24—K12, * (si 1, kl) twice, si 1, kl 1; rep from *, end last repeat k4. Row 25—P3, * RC, pi, kl, pi, LC, p9; rep from *, end p2. Row 26—Kll, * (si 1, k2) twice, si 1, k9; rep from *, end last repeat k3. Row 27—P2, * RC, p2, kl, p2, LC, p7; rep from *, end p3. Row 28—K10, * (si 1, k3) twice, si 1, k7; rep from », end last repeat k2.

Repeat Rows 1-28.

Saracen's Crown

This beautiful pattern makes a unique panel decoration for any sweater. Though the directions may seem complicated, it is simple to work. After making just one Crown, the knitter can easily see just how to make the next, without any further reading of the directions. Saracen's Crown can be arranged as a spot-pattern, as well as a panel.

Panel of 17 sts.

Notes: K1-2w Kl wrapping yarn twice around needle.

Dw—drop wrap; that is, drop extra wrappings off needle as the stitch is slipped.

RSC (Right Slip-Cross)—si 2 purl sts, drop next (elongated) st off needle to front of work, si the same 2 purl sts back to left-hand needle, pick up dropped st and place it on left-hand needle, then kl, p2 across these 3 sts.

LSC (Left Slip-Cross)—drop the elongated st off needle to front of work, si next 2 purl sts, pick up dropped st and place on left-hand needle, si the same 2 purl sts back to left-hand needle, then p2, kl across these 3 sts.

Saracen's Crown

Row 1 (Right side)—P4, k9, p4. Row 2—K4, p9, k4.

Row 3—P4, kl-2w, k3. (kl, yo, kl, yo, kl) in next st, k3, kl-2w, p4. Row 4—K4, si 1 wyif dw, p3, p5 wrapping yarn twice for each st, p3, si 1 wyif dw, k4.

Row 5—P2, RSC, kl-2w, k2, si 5 wyib dw, k2, kl-2w, LSC, p2.

Row 6—K5, si 1 wyif dw, p2, si 5 wyif, p2, si 1 wyif dw, k5.

Row 7—P3, RSC, kl-2w, k2 tog, si 3 wyib, ssk, kl-2w, LSC, p3.

Row 8—K6, si 1 wyif dw, pi, si 3 wyif, pi, si 1 wyif dw, k6.

Row 9—P4, RSC, kl-2w, si 2 knitwise—kl—p2sso, kl-2w, LSC, p4.

Repeat Rows 1-14.

CHAPTER TH R E E

Berry Boosters

Berry Boosters

Acai, Maqui And Many Other Popular Berries That Will Change Your Life And Health. Berries have been demonstrated to be some of the healthiest foods on the planet. Each month or so it seems fresh research is being brought out and new berries are being exposed and analyzed for their health giving attributes.

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