Doublejersey inlay

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On double-jersey machines, laying-in may be achieved by the tunnel inlay technique. The inlay is fed in advance of the knitting yarn at a feed and is trapped as an almost straight horizontal yarn inside the fabric, behind the cylinder and dial face loops.

To reduce weight, the inlay is usually supplied at every third or sixth feed of a three-colour jacquard design at feeders that always knit some loops on the cylinder.

The tube inlay feed is attached to the feeder guide to supply its yarn low and in advance of the cylinder and dial needles moving out to clear for the ground yarn. To make the inlay visible and to reduce the fabric width and weight, alternate cylinder needles are removed and replaced by dummy or blank needles that prevent the tricks from closing-up or becoming clogged with dirt. Needle selection thus takes place on half-gauged cylinder needles with the inlay (either boucle or over fed yarn) protruding through between these wales.

Rib gating

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First four rows of pattern graph

First four rows of pattern graph

Fig. 13.9 Tuck lace.

Although tunnel inlay is a simple technique (Fig. 13.10), the yarn is not very secure when the fabric is cut into open width; also the yarn has a straight configuration, with little surplus available for elastic extension. If an elastomeric yarn is employed, there is width-wise, but no length-wise, extension and recovery.

The alternative to tunnel inlay is to use a knitting feeder for inlay by missing and tucking on one or both needle beds. Texi pique (Fig. 13.3b) is an example but, as

Tunnel Inlay Technique
Fig. 13.10 Tunnel inlay.
Fig. 13.11 Faneknit inlay device.

tucking occurs on both beds and the cylinder needles are full gauged, the inlay is hidden inside the structure.

The Faneknit device (Fig. 13.11) achieves inlay by tucking only on one bed by employing a V-bladed weft insertion wheel to which the inlay yarn is supplied, and presents it in the correct position to the needle bed. If a needle is lifted to tuck height, the blades present the yarn into its hook. Needles not lifted miss the yarn as the blades take it past the top of their heads.

13.8 The modern circular fabric knitting machine

Figure 13.12 illustrates some of the features of a modern circular fabric-producing machine that ensure that high quality fabric is knitted at speed with the minimum of supervision:

What Circular Fabric
Fig. 13.12 The modem circular single jersey fabric machine.

1,2 The top (1) and bottom (2) stop motions. These are spring-loaded yarn supports that pivot downwards when the yarn end breaks or its tension is increased. This action releases the surplus yarn to the feeder, thus preventing a press-off, and simultaneously completes a circuit which stops the machine and illuminates an indicator warning light.

3 Various spring-loaded detector points. These are carefully positioned around the cylinder according to their particular function. A pointer is tripped to stop the machine by a fault or malfunctioning element such as a yarn slub, fabric lump, needle head, latch spoon, etc.

4 The tape positive feed (4A). This provides three different speeds (course lengths) and is driven and can be adjusted from the drive arrangement (4B).

5 The cylinder needle cam system for each feed - contained in a single replaceable section and having an exterior adjustment for the stitch cam slide.

6 The automatic lubrication system.

7 Start, stop and inching buttons.

8 The cam-driven fabric winding down mechanism, which revolves with the fabric tube.

9 The revolution counters for each of the three shifts and a pre-set counter for stopping the machine on completion of a specific fabric length (in courses).

10 Side creel (optional).

11 Lint blower. This reduces the incidence of knitted-in lint slubs, to improve quality when using open-end spun yarns. It also reduces cross-contamination by fibres from other machines.

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  • jamila abrha
    What is circular fabric?
    8 years ago
  • isembold
    How to inlay elastic yarn insingle jersey fabric?
    3 years ago
  • nina
    How to inlay elastic yarn in single jersey fabric?
    3 years ago

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