Elasticised fabrics

Elasticised fabrics have long been used for corsetry, foundation garments, and swimwear, but the introduction of fine-diameter elastane yarns whose elastic exten-

Knit And Purl Raschel Lace Pattern
Fig. 28.12 Elastane fabrics.

sibility and recovery can be 'engineered' to particular requirements has extended the use of these structures into lingerie and active sports and leisure wear. Elasti-cised fabrics are knitted on high-speed raschel and tricot machines as well as in patterned form on multi guide bar lace machines.

The main prerequisites of these machines is delivery of the elastane yarn under conditions of controlled tension, robust knitting elements that will not deflect under the tension of the elastic yarn, and controlled tension for the fabric take-up.

Power net (Fig. 28.12a) is the most widely-known structure for foundation wear. Four half-sett threaded guide bars are used. The two front bars knit the nylon ground and the two back bars inlay the elastane yarn. Only two fully-sett beams, one of nylon and the other of elastic yarn may be needed to supply the requirements of the guide bars. This structure can provide a length-wise extension of 75-85 per cent and a width-wise extension of 65-75 per cent.

For fine-gauge fabrics, elastane yarns with counts from 22 to 78 dtex may be knitted into 'stretch tricot using a locknit construction or special lapping movement (Fig. 28.12b). Compound-needle high-speed raschels are favoured for this type of work.

In patterned multi guide bar elastic lace fabrics, the pattern threads are sandwiched in the centre of the structure with the fully-threaded knitting guide bar placed at the front and the elastane yarn being inlaid by the back bar(s).

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