Jacquard raschels

Although first patented by Samuel Draper of Nottingham in 1837, the selective control of individual guide lapping in a guide bar by means of an overhead jacquard only developed into a sophisticated technique during the late 1960s.

On Karl Mayer machines using mechanical jacquard control, the principle employed was to deflect selected guides in a fully-threaded jacquard bar guide bar by means of selectively lowered dropper pins carried in a separately-shogged displacement pin bar.

Those guides have a greater or lesser extent of lap than the undeflected guides of the same guide bar which lap the distance controlled by the guide bar shogging at that course. The pins are kept in the displacement position or raised out of action by means of a verdol jacquard apparatus and harness arranged above the machine.

By this means, the underlaps of individual guides in knitting, inlay or fall-plate jacquard guide bars can be varied in extent. Also, on some machines, an inlay movement may be converted into a selected overlap, thus producing a plated overlap design in colour on the technical face of the fabric.

The type of deflection is dependent upon the relative lapping movements of both bars and the exact moment when the pin contacts the guide, so that the guide is either deflected towards or away from its direction of lapping. Figure 28.13 illustrates how a semi-transparent two-needle inlay (a) can be deflected to the left at odd courses to produce open-work areas of one-needle inlays (b), or at even courses to produce solid areas of three-needle inlays (c).

Usually it is necessary to supply the warp for the jacquard bar from individual packages mounted on a creel. There is normally only one, or occasionally two, jacquard guide bars and the remainder are conventionally controlled guide bars.

The guides of the jacquard bar may have a gauge twice as fine as the needles so that there are two guides between adjacent needles, arranged in two staggered rows (A, Fig. 28.14), each capable of having a different yarn type or count if necessary.

The jacquard bars are arranged not to swing, otherwise the harness strings could become entangled.

Fig. 28.13 Jacquard inlay deflection units.

Fig. 28.14 Mechanical jacquard apparatus.

Resting position Displacement position

Fig. 28.14 Mechanical jacquard apparatus.

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