Locknit (jersey in the USA) or charmeuse (France and Germany) is the most popular of all warp knitted structures and accounts for 70-80 per cent of total output. The longer underlaps of the front bar on the back of the fabric improve extensibility, cover, opacity, and give a smooth, soft handle and good drapability. Its greater cohesion reduces snagging and splitting. Its tendency to curl towards the face at the top and bottom, and towards the back at the sides, can be reduced by heat setting.
On a 28-gauge tricot machine, a fabric might be produced from nylon yarn weighing about 30g/m2 for 20 denier, 82g/m2 for 40 denier. and 152g/m2 for 70 denier. In each case the finished wales per inch are more than 37. Shrinkage is generally between 20 and 30 per cent, but it can be less. An elasticated fabric for lingerie may be produced on the same gauge, using 40 denier nylon on the front bar and 40 denier spandex on the back, with a weight of 158g/m2.
The finest lingerie can be knitted in E 44 gauge from 22dtex polyester with a weight of 46.1 g/m2. Stretch lingerie can be knitted in the same gauge using 44dtex Elastane in the back bar and 44dtex nylon in the front guide bar.
The elasticity of locknit makes it particularly suitable for lingerie and intimate apparel. A knitting width of 168 inches (427 cm) can be finished between 92 and 100 inches (234-254cm), which is a satisfactory width for handling these structures.
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