Nonjacquard doublejersey structures

Most interlock variation structures have six- or eight-feeder sequences, as only alternate needles in one bed are in action in a course. Single pique or cross tuck interlock (Fig. 13.3a) was one of the first to be produced, by placing tuck cams in the dial at every third feeder. The tuck stitches throw the fabric out approximately 15 per cent wider than normal interlock to a satisfactory finished width of over 60 inches (approximately 1.5 m) for a 30-inch diameter machine. They break up the surface uniformity and help to mask feeder stripiness, but they also increase fabric weight.

Texi pique (Fig. 13.3b) is wider and bulkier and shows the same pique effect on both sides. Cross miss (Fig. 13.3d) is the knit miss equivalent of single pique, but it is narrower and lighter in weight. Piquette (Fig. 13.3e) is a reversible knit miss structure with a light cord effect.

Costa Brava Knitting Structure

Fig. 13.3 Double jersey non-jacquard fabrics.

Bourrelet fabrics have pronounced horizontal cords at regular intervals, produced by knitting excess courses only on the cylinder needles; the cord courses may be in a different colour to the ground courses. There may be half, more than half, or less than half the total number of feeders knitting the cord courses. Interlock rather than rib base bourrelet is usually preferred because it provides a softer, smoother more regular surface with less extensibility, but it requires two feeders per cord row.

Jersey cord (Fig. 13.4a) is an example of a miss bourrelet, and super Roma (Fig. 13.4b) is its equivalent in tuck bourrelet. The latter, sometimes termed horizontal ripple fabrics, tend to be heavier and to have a less pronounced cord than the former, which are termed ottomans in the USA.

Costa Brava is a plain, single-colour structure that requires individual needle selection on a width of four cylinder needles. A diagonal effect is developed on two adjacent cylinder needles, which move by one needle at the first of every three-feeder sequence; the third feeder complements this. These loops are extended by the dial-only knit course at every second feeder. Alternate dial needle knitting produces a twill backing.

Gabardine (Fig. 13.5a) is a simple 2 x 2 twill 'double-blister' fabric (see below) which is useful for fine-gauge men's leisurewear. It has a four needle width repeat, with the dial needles all knitting the backing at every third (ground) feed. A flatter structure, used for the same purpose, is called poplin (Fig. 13.5b), a type of single blister with a two needle width repeat.

The most popular relief design is blister (or cloque), which is normally produced only on circular rib jacquard machines. Each cylinder needle is selected to knit either a ground yarn, which also is knitted on alternate dial needles, or a blister yarn

Jersey cord

Super Roma

• Ô

(•) Knit Tuck JL_ Miss

ÍSr

Î-4

(a)

(b)

  1. 13.4 Further double jersey fabrics.
  2. 13.4 Further double jersey fabrics.

which is only knitted on the cylinder side and floats between blister loops inside the structure, hidden by the ground loops of the face and back.

Double-blister structures have two blister feeder courses between each ground feeder course (Fig. 13.6b).This produces a more pronounced blister relief, with twice as many courses of blister loops to ground loops. It is heavier and has a slower rate of production than single blister. Blister loops at two successive feeders may not necessarily occur on the same needles. They may be in one or more colours with a self-colour or a one- or two-colour ground.

Single blister is sometimes termed three-miss blister (Fig. 13.6a) because each dial needle misses three feeders after knitting; similarly, double blister may be termed five-miss blister. All blister structures show only the ground loops on the back.

Quilted structures are types of blister fabrics where blister yarn knitting occurs on a large number of adjacent cylinder needles so that enclosed pockets, or quilts, are formed by lack of connection between cylinder and dial courses. A number of colours may be used.

Ripple designs show as figured rolls or welts on the all-dial knit side of the structure because there are more loops per wale on this side and every dial needle knits at every feeder. The cylinder needles are only selected to knit to balance the dial loops where the ripple is not required.

Double pique, wevenit and overnit are synonymous terms for the same stable knit miss rib-gated fabric (Fig. 13.7), which is narrower and has a less pronounced pique appearance than single pique and tends to be rather heavy. Although it is now also produced on rib machines, it was originally produced by modifying the interlock machine as follows:

1 Changing from interlock to rib gating.

2 Changing dial cam systems 2 and 3 over in every four-feed sequence.

Rib Interlock Machine Dial Cams
Fig. 13.5 Twill and poplin double jersey.

3 Placing all long needles only in the cylinder if Swiss double pique is required, or all short needles only if French double pique is required.

This arrangement causes all cylinder needles to knit at every alternate feeder as there are no other long cylinder needles, whilst alternate dial needles knit at two successive feeders because identical cam systems are in a two-feeder sequence in the dial. French double pique tends to be wider and slacker than Swiss double pique because, in this structure, the dial needle loops that are held for two feeders can rob extra yarn from the cylinder loops that are knitting in the same course, thus producing long, held loops. Rodier is a term sometimes applied to either double pique or texi pique and mock rodier to piquette.

Costa Brava Knitting Structure
Fig. 13.6 Single and double blister.

Punto di Roma (Fig. 13.8b) has replaced double pique as the most popular nonjacquard double jersey structure. It belongs to a group of structures that are reversible and have a tubular sequence of dial only and cylinder only knit. It has an acceptable weight and finishes with a width of about 70 inches (1.77 m) from a 30-inch diameter machine.

Cortina (Fig. 13.3g) is a six feed version produced on interlock camming with run-through cams where missing is required. Milano Rib (Fig. 13.8c) is the rib equivalent of punto di Roma, with greater extensibility and width, and 50 per cent greater production but there is a danger of a yarn breakage causing a press-off at the all-knit course. It is particularly used in the production of fashioned collars. Evermonte (Fig. 13.8a) has a row of tuck stitches on one side after each tubular course, which produces a slight ripple effect.

Tuck lace or mock transfer (Fig. 13.9) designs consist of two fabrics knitted with different yarns or colours, one produced on the dial and the other on the cylinder.

Doubeljersey

Fig. 13.7 Double pique.

Punto Roma
Fig. 13.8 Milano, punto di Roma and evermonte.

Fig. 13.7 Double pique.

At the all-dial-knit feeders, selected tucking may occur on alternate cylinder needles if required; often the selection is repeated at the next two-feeder sequence to emphasise the effect. The tucks produce a 'semi-breakthrough' effect by displacing the wales of the dial side, which is the effect side, so that the cylinder loops show through at these points as a different colour.

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Responses

  • Marco
    What is roma knit structure?
    8 years ago
  • annabella
    How to knit punto di roma?
    6 years ago
  • arlo
    What are the end use of swiss double pique rib structure?
    3 years ago

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