Overfed pile structures

Overfed pile structures are achieved usually by supplying warp at a faster rate to the back guide bar than is required for the conventional structure, so that the surplus warp forces its way through to the surface on the technical face as a pile. One example is airloop, which is reverse locknit having a front-to-back guide bar run-in ratio of approximately 1 to 2.3 instead of 1 to 1.2. The structure has a less definite pile and a soft hand. A crepe effect is achieved but the pile height and density tends to vary from centre to edge and the fabric is unstable and stretchy, like a single bar structure. Another structure is made with locknit if the run-in of the two bars is the same instead of having a front-to-back ratio of 4:3. Mechanisms have also been used to produce similar effects; these include a tension bar that dips to feed more yarn for either the overlap or the underlap, and patterning by selecting the tension on the warp threads to reduce the pile yarn then later releasing it to overfeed. Variation in shade is achieved by using two different coloured warps, one in each guide bar.

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