Purl structure

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Purl was originally spelt 'pearl' and was so named because of its similar appearance to pearl droplets.

Purl structures have one or more wales which contain both face and reverse loops. This can be achieved with double-ended latch needles or by rib loop transfer from one bed to the other, combined with needle bed racking.

The semi-circles of the needle and sinker loops produced by the reverse loop intermeshing tend to be prominent on both sides of the structure and this has led to the term 'links-links' being generally applied to purl fabrics and machines. Links is the German word for left and it indicates that there are left or reverse loops visible on each side of the fabric [3]. In a similar manner, the German term for rib is rechtsrechts (right-right).

The tricks of the two needle beds in purl machines are exactly opposite to each other and in the same plane, so that the single set of purl needles, each of which has a hook at either end, can be transferred across to knit outwards from either bed (Fig. 7.17). Knitting outwards from one bed, the needle will produce a face meshed needle loop with the newly-fed yarn whilst the same needle knitting outwards with its other hook from the opposite bed will produce a reverse meshed needle loop (Fig. 7.18).

As the needle moves across between the two needle beds, the old loop slides off the latch of the hook that produced it and moves along the needle towards the other hook. It cannot enter because it will pivot the latch closed (an action that must not occur until the new yarn has been fed to that hook).

The needle hook that protrudes from the bed knits with the yarn whilst the hook in the needle trick acts as a butt and is controlled by an element termed a slider (Fig. 7.19). There is a complete set of sliders with their noses facing outwards from each bed. It is the sliders whose butts are controlled by the knitting and needle transfer cam systems in each bed and they, in turn, control the needles.

Each slider is normally provided with two butts - a knitting butt (K) near to its head and the needle hook that is connected to it, and a transfer butt (T) near to its tail. Each butt has its own cam system and track.

(NB The same needle has been drawn twice to show its two possible knitting bed positions) Fig. 7.17 Purl knitting using sliders.
Purl Knit Structure
Fig. 7.18 Purl fabric structure.

There are two types of purl needle bed machine - flat bed purls, which have two horizontally opposed needle beds and circular purls (double cylinder machines), which have two superimposed cylinders one above the other. Both types of machine generally produce garment lengths.

Flat bed purls are no longer built because electronically-controlled V-bed flat machines can now knit types of links-links designs. Small diameter (6 inch/15 cm or less) double cylinder machines are used to knit broad rib socks, whereas larger diameter machines produce knitwear.

V-bed rib machines will knit purl stitch designs if rib loops are transferred across to empty needles in the opposing bed, which then begin to knit in the same wales.

The simplest purl is 1 x 1 purl, which is the garter stitch of hand knitters and consists of alternate courses of all face and all reverse loops and is produced by the needles knitting in one bed and then transferring over to the other bed to knit the next course (Fig. 7.18). Its lateral stretch is equal to plain, but its length-wise elasticity is almost double. When relaxed, the face loop courses cover the reverse loop courses, making it twice as thick as plain. It can be unroved from both ends because the free sinker loops can be pulled through at the bottom of the fabric. In the USA, 1 x 1 purl is sometimes made up at right angles to the knitting sequence and is then termed 'Alpaca stitch'.

Another simple purl is moss stitch, which consists of face and reverse loops in alternate courses and wales (Fig. 7.20). Basket purls consist of rectangular areas of all X or all O loops, which alternate with each other. Examples include 5 x 3 (Fig. 7.21), 7 x 3,4 x 4 (Fig. 7.22). On some of the older machines, a collecting row with all needles knitting in one bed making a plain course is necessary before needles change over beds [4].

The reverse stitches of purl give it the appearance of hand knitting and this is enhanced by using softly spun yarns. It is particularly suitable for baby wear, where width and length stretch is required, and also for adult knitwear.

The double-cylinder half-hose machine is actually a small diameter purl machine that produces ribs by retaining needles in the same set-out for a large number of successive courses.

7.5.1 Purl needle transfer action

The following conditions are necessary in order to achieve the transference of a purl needle from the control of a slider in one bed into the control of a slider in the opposite bed (Fig. 7.19):

1 Engagement of the head of the receiving slider with the needle hook that was originally knitting from the opposing bed.

2 Cam action causing the head of the delivering slider to pivot outwards from the trick and thus disengage itself from the other hook of the needle.

3 Sufficient free space to allow the heads of the sliders to pivot outwards from their tricks during engagement and disengagement of the needles.

4 A positive action which maintains the engagement of the head of a slider with a needle hook throughout its knitting cycle by ensuring that it is pressed down into the trick.

Purl Needle Transfer
  1. 7.19 Purl needle transfer action.
  2. 7.20 Purl notation.
  3. 7.20 Purl notation.
  4. 7.19 Purl needle transfer action.
  5. 5.2 The use of dividing cams

Figure 7.19 illustrates the transfer action using dividing cams, on a revolving double-cylinder machine with internal holding-down sinkers and stationary cam-boxes. The dividing cam principle for slider disengagement was, until recently, in widespread use on half-hose machines, although it had already been replaced on the double-

Purl Fabric Notation

Fig. 7.21 Basket purl with a collecting course.

  1. 7.22 Basket purl without a collecting course.
  2. 7.21 Basket purl with a collecting course.
  3. 7.22 Basket purl without a collecting course.

cylinder garment-length purl machines that succeeded the original Spensa purl machine.

The dividing cam is an internally-profiled, cut-through recess in a flat plate, attached horizontally and externally to the cylinders at a position half-way between them. There is a recess cam position for the top cylinder and another for the bottom cylinder in a different position in the same plate. The principle of the dividing cam operation is that it forms a wedge shape of increasing thickness between the upper surface of the needle hook and the under surface of the extended nose of the delivering slider, pivoting it away from the cylinder so that it disengages from the needle hook.

1 The delivering slider (D) advances with the needle so that the nose of the slider, which is extended into a latch guard, penetrates the profiled recess of the dividing cam. The outer hook of the needle contacts the hook underneath the head of the receiving slider (R), pivoting it out of the cylinder, but it immediately returns and -

2 engages with the needle hook under the influence of a coil spring band (SB) that surrounds each cylinder and ensures that the slider heads are depressed into contact with the needle hooks.

3 As slider D revolves with the cylinder, it passes along the wall of the dividing cam (DC), which increases in thickness so that the slider is pivoted outwards and disengages from the needle hook. Slider D then returns to its cylinder whilst slider R retires into its cylinder, taking the needle with it, ready for the next knitting feed.

7.5.3 The use of spring-loaded cams

Figure 7.23 illustrates the spring-loaded cam method of slider disengagement, used in the SPJ type machine, which is the successor of the Spensa purl but has stationary cylinders (without internal sinkers) and revolving cam-boxes. A similar

Purl Structure
Fig. 7.23 Purl needle transfer using spring loaded cams.

technique is being generally introduced into double-cylinder half-hose machines, although these have revolving cylinders. At the moment of disengagement, the spring-loaded cam presses onto the tail of the delivering slider (D), causing its head to swing away from the cylinder and to disengage itself from the needle hook. The action is made possible by the tapering under-surface of the slider tail.

This method is simpler and safer and operates well at high speeds. The latch guard nose of the slider is extended and pointed to act as a latch-opener as the receiving slider meets the approaching head of the needle, whose latch is specially shaped to facilitate the action. This action reduces the danger of press-offs occurring through latches closing onto empty hooks. (On the Spensa purl, two ends of yarn were knitted so that yarn breakage and a subsequent press-off were less likely to occur).

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