Raschel mesh structures

Mesh structures may be used alone or as the ground for designs produced by pattern bars (Chapter 27). The three main raschel lace gauges are: 28-gauge (E 14), which is coarse gauge (Fig. 28.6) and is mainly used for dress-wear with the designs being emphasised by heavy outline threads; 36-gauge (E 18) which is the standard gauge (Fig. 28.7); and 48 gauge (E 24) which is fine gauge, provides better definition in designs, and is also used for lace edgings, etc. (Fig. 28.8).

Three-course tulle is the standard mesh for raschel lace, producing three courses on each wale with the inlay reinforcement lapping in unison. When the pillar and inlay lap in opposition, a square mesh known as cross tulle or bridal veil net is produced. 3/2 tulle produces alternate rows of smaller mesh and its lapping covers three

Wales Knitting Structures

THE SU UNIT

ECCENTRIC IN THE FORWARD POSITION

ECCENTRIC IN THE FORWARD POSITION

Pontiac Water Tube Ring
ECCENTRIC IN THE BACKWARD POSITION
Wales Knitting Structures
Fig. 28.5 The summary drive (SU) electronic patterning mechanism [Karl Mayer].

Fig. 28.6 28 gauge (E 14) pillar inlay using outline threads [Karl Mayer].

Weft Knitting Machine
Fig. 28.7 36-gauge (E 18) raschel tulle lace (technical face).

Multi guide bar machines and fabrics 347

Multi guide bar machines and fabrics 347

Raschel Fleece Knit Structure
Vertical Inlay Knit Structure
Fig. 28.9 Raschel lace five course tulle with inlay; (a) structure; (b) notation.

wales. Five-course tulle produces larger mesh and is more suitable for 28-gauge fabrics.

Hexagonal pattern paper is more useful than point paper when plotting inlay designs for lace. The staggered vertical column of hexagonals that represent the 0 height link position is then established. Each hexagonal in a horizontal row moving away from the 0 link position will represent an increase of chain link height (in even numbers) (Fig. 28.9, A).

Sometimes, more elaborate grounds are produced by varying the inlay movements of partly-threaded bars or a jacquard-controlled guide bar whilst employing a fully-threaded guide bar to make a ground pillar stitch.

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  • JENS
    What is raschel mesh structure?
    9 years ago

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