Most fully-fashioned and stitch-shaped underwear and outerwear garments, halfhose, and socks have ribbed borders containing a welt sequence that is produced by causing the sets of needles to act independently of each other after the 1 x 1 rib setup course.
When the rib border is to be knitted in 2 x 2 rib, the needle bed is either shogged to form a skeleton 1 x 1 rib needle arrangement or it is knitted on a normal 1 x 1 rib needle set-out followed by rib loop transfer to achieve 2 x 2 rib for the border.
Three types of welt are possible when needles are arranged in 1 x 1 rib set-out. These are:
1 The tubular or French welt.
2 The roll or English welt.
3 The racked welt.
The tubular welt (Fig. 16.4) is the most popular welt because it is a balanced structure that is reversible, lies flat, can be extended to any depth and is elastic. Its only disadvantage is that it can become baggy during washing and wear unless knitted tightly. Apart from old Cottons Patent Rib Frames, most garment-length knitting machines can knit this welt.
The split welt is actually a tubular welt knitted at the end of the garment sequence instead of at the beginning. It is used as an open tube for a collar or stolling, to fit over the cut edge of a garment to which it is then linked by a through stitch.
The roll welt (Fig. 16.5) is produced by knitting approximately four courses on one set of needles only whilst continuing to hold the setting-up course of loops on the other set of needles. It is bulkier and less elastic than the tubular welt and has the disadvantage of long held loops. This welt is knitted particularly on half-hose and links-links garment-length circular machines.
A reverse roll welt is knitted for sleeves with turn-back cuffs and for turn-over top socks. To obtain this welt, the opposite set of needles (the bottom set of needles on half-hose machines) are caused to hold their loops so that the roll of the welt appears on the other side of the structure, but it is on the face when the fabric is folded over.
The racked welt (Fig. 16.6) is neat and inconspicuous, rather like the set-up course of hand knitting in appearance, and is favoured for collars and other trimmings. It
is not as elastic as the other two welts and is normally only knitted on V-bed flat machines. It is produced by racking the needle bed by one needle space after the set-up course and retaining this arrangement.
Was this article helpful?