The multiplegauge technique

Sophisticated fashion tastes have, on occasion, required knitwear garments containing zones of both coarse and fine gauge stitches - which can now achieved on one machine using 'multiple gauges'. This involves a combination of techniques, including half-gauging, using different numbers of yarn ends, intarsia zoning, and blocks of different gauges of needles each working with its corresponding count of yarn and yarn carrier (Fig. 19.6). Stoll have a multi-gauge range:

The '5.2' with 6-gauge needle hooks gives a range from E 5 to E 10. The '6.2' with 8-gauge hooks gives a range from E 6 to E 12. The '7.2' with 10-gauge hooks gives a range from E 7 to E 14.

Stoll and Shima Seiki have demonstrated how an apparent range of gauge structures can be knitted all on the same E 6 gauge machine, using half-gauge and full-gauge needle set-outs, together with different numbers of ends of yarn.

Stoll have knitted a sample range on an E 6.2 gauge CMS 340 using Nm 2/32's yarn. In the finest gauge, every needle knitted a single end of yarn (resultant different count - Nm 16).

In the second sample, two ends of yarn (resultant count - Nm 8) were knitted. In the third sample, half gauge knitting of three ends of yarn (resultant count -Nm 5.3) occurred.

Four ends (Nm 4) were knitted in the fourth sample.

Six ends (Nm 2.7) in the sixth and coarsest sample.

Stoll ready-to-wear integrates many of the laborious and time-consuming making-up processes into the knitting process; for example, pockets, button-hole panels, facings, overlapping collars, bows, and loops.

Aran Shima Seiki Edges Patterns
Fig. 19.6 Multi-gauge technique garment.
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