Heel flap: Place 15 sts on each side of seam st, plus the seam st itself, onto 1 needle to work for heel flap—31 sts. Hold rem 30 sts on 2 needles to be worked later for instep. With RS facing, join yarn to beg of heel sts. Work 31 heel sts back and forth in rows as foil:
Row 1: (RS) SI 1, k4, k2tog, l<5, k2tog, kl, pi (seam st), kl, [k2tog, k5] 2 times—27 sts rem.
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INSTEP PATTERN (worked over 26 sts) Rnds 1 and 2: [K2, p2] 6 times, k2. Rnds 3 and 4: [P2, k2] 6 times, p2. Repeat Rnds 1 -4 for pattern.
Row 2: (WS) SI 1, pl2, kl, pl3. Row 3: [SI 1, kl] 3 times, si 1, k2iog, [si 1, kl ] 9 times—26 sts rem. Row 4: SI 1, purl to end. Row 5: *S11, kl; rep from *. Rep the last 2 rows 13 more times, then work Row 4 (WS) once more—32 rows total; 16 chain sts (slipped selvedge sts) along edge of heel flap. Turn heel: Work short rows as foil: Row 1: (RS) SI 1, kl6, k2tog, turn. Row 2: (WS) SI 1, p8, p2tog, turn. Row 3: SI 1, k8, l<2tog, turn. Rep Rows 2 and 3 until all heel sts have been worked, ending with a WS row—10 heel sts rem.
Gussets: Rejoin for working in the rncl as foil:
Rncl 1: With needle 1, klO heel sts, then pick up and knit 16 sts along right side of heel flap; with needle 2, k2, work instep patt (see above) over center 26 sts, k2; with needle 3, pick up and knit 16 sts along left side of heel flap, then knit the first 5 sts from needle 1 again—72 sts total; 21 sts each on needles 1 and 3, 30 instep sts on needle 2. Rnd begins at back of heel. Rnd 2: On needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, kl; on needle 2, work instep sts as established; on needle 3, kl, si 1, kl, psso, knit to end—2 sts dec'd.
Rnd 3: On needle 1, knit; on needle 2, work instep sts as established; on needle 3, knit. Rep Rnds 2 and 3 seven more times—56 sts rem; 13 sts each on needles 1 and 3, 30 instep sts on needle 2.
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