Heel flap: SI the last 36 sts of rnd onto one needle for heel. Hold rem 28 sts on 2 needles to be worked later for instep. Work 36 heel sts back and forth in rows as foil: Row 1: (WS) SI 1, *p5, p2tog; rep from *— 31 sts rem.
Row 2: (RS) [SI 1, kl] 2 times, si 1, k2tog, [si 1, kl] 12 times—30 sts rem. Row 3: SI 1, p29. Row 4: *S1 1, kl; rep from *. Rep the last 2 rows 15 more times, ending with a RS row—17 chain edge sts (slipped selvedge sts) along each side of heel flap. Turn heel: Cont in short rows as foil: Row 1: (WS) SI 1, pl8, p2tog, pi, turn. Row 2: (RS) SI 1, k9, k2tog, kl, turn. Row 3: SI 1, purl to 1 st. before gap made by last row, p2tog, pi, turn. Row 4: SI 1, knit to 1 st before gap made by last row, k2tog, kl, turn. Rep Rows 3 and 4 until all sts have been worked, ending with a RS row—20 heel sts rem.
Gussets: Rejoin for working in the rnd as foil:
Rnd 1: With needle containing heel sts (needle 1), pick up and knit 17 sts along right side of heel flap; with needle 2, work first 28 instep sts in fancy patt as established (Rnd 1 of patt), Ml pwise (Glossary, page 115; purl this st hereafter to balance patt on instep); with needle 3, pick up and knit 17 sts along left side of heel flap, then knit the first 10 sts from heel needle again—83 sts total; 27 heel sts each on needles 1 and 3, 29 instep sts on needle 2. Rncl begins at back of heel.
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Rnd 2: On needle 1, kl, k2tog, 1<20, k2tog, k2; on needle 2, work instep sts in patt as established; on needle 3, k2, si 1, kl, psso, k20, k2tog, kl—79 sis rem. Rnd 3: Knit sts on needles 1 and 3; work sts in patt as established on needle 2. Rnd 4: On needle 1, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2; on needle 2, work instep sts as established; on needle 3, k2, si 1, kl, psso, knit to end—2 sts dec'd.
Rep Rnds 3 and 4 eight more times—61 sts rem; 16 sts each on needles 1 and 3, 29 instep sts on needle 2. Cont even as established until loot measures 7Y" (19 cm) from back of heel, or 2" (5 cm) less than desired total length.
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