Stripy Fair Isle socks

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Cross Stitch Pattern In 5 Minutes

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These socks are much easier than working real Fair Isle. They are based on the basic two-needle sock shape (such as projects 13 and 14) but are worked in a four-colour stripe sequence with slipped stitches to give a Fair Isle look. This technique produces a denser fabric than you would normally get from stocking stitch, which guarantees that the socks are warm and cosy to wear.

KNITTING THE SOCKS (MAKE 2)

Using 2.75mm needles and yarn D, cast on 71 sts. Without breaking off yarn D, join yarn A.

Row 2: (Pi, ki) to last st, pi. Join yarn B. Row 3: Using yarn B, (ki, pi) to last st, ki. Row 4: (Pi, ki) to last st, pi. Join yarn C. Row 5: Using yarn C, (ki, pi) to last st, ki. Row 6: (Pi, ki) to last st, pi. Join yarn D. Row 7: Using yarn D, (ki, pi) to last st, ki. Row 8: (Pi, ki) to last st, pi. Rows 9-16: Repeat rows 1-8 once, carrying yarns up side of work and taking care not to pull them too tightly.

See step 1

Stripy Fair Isle socks

Before you start

Keeping the colour sequence as set by rib, begin working the 2-row slip-stitch stripes. Row 1 (RS): Ki, mik, knit to last st, mik, ki (73 sts).

Row 2 & all unspecified WS rows: Purl. Row 3: Knit.

Row 5: K4, (si 1, k3) to last st, ki. Row 6: P4, (sl 1, P3) to last st, pi. Row 7: K2, (sl 1, k3) to last 3 sts, sl 1, k2. Row 8: P2, (sl 1, P3) to last 3 sts, sl 1, p2.

See steps 2-3

Row 9: K23, k2tog, k23, k2tog tbl, knit to end (71 sts). Row 11: Knit.

repeat from * to end.

repeat from * to end.

See steps 4-5 overleaf

Row 21: K4, (sl 1, k3) 4 times, sl 1, ki, k2tog, k3, (sl 1, k3) 5 times, k2tog tbl, ki, (sl 1, k3) to last st, ki (69 sts).

Row 22: P4, [(sl 1, P3) 4 times, sl 1, P5] twice, (sl 1, p3) 5 times, pi.

Row 33: K21, k2tog, k23, k2tog tbl, knit to end (67 sts). Row 35: Knit.

Row 45: K4, (sl 1, k3) 4 times, k2tog, (k3, sl 1) 5 times, k3, k2tog tbl, (k3, sl 1) to last 4 sts, k4 (65 sts).

MEASUREMENTS

Length from heel to toe: 28cm (nin) Length from top to heel: 26cm (io'/,in)

YARN

DK-weight yarn (100% merino wool; approx. i6om/i75yds per 50g/20z ball) in 4 colours: A Brown marl x 2 balls B Charcoal x 2 balls C Mustard x 2 balls D Burgundy x 2 balls

NEEDLES

Two 2.75mm straight needles

TENSION

31 sts x 45 rows = 10cm (4m) in pattern using 2.75mm needles

ABBREVIATIONS

k - knit; mik - make 1 stitch knitwise; p - purl; RS - right side; st(s) - stitch(es); sl - slip stitch from left to right needle without working it; tbl - through back of loop; tog - together; wrap st - see pages 97-99 (steps 3-8); WS - wrong side

Use a combination of purl and slip stitches on WS rows, keeping the yarn on the WS of the work whenever you slip a stitch.

Carry the yarns not in use up the side of the work instead of breaking them off and rejoining them later. This will save you from having to sew in lots of ends.

Work the slip-stitch pattern that creates the Fair Isle look by combining knit and slip stitches on RS rows.

the projects

Row 57: K19, k2tog, k23, k2tog tbl, knit to end (63 sts). Row 59: Knit.

Row 61: K4, (si 1, k3) 4 times, k3, (si 1, k3) 5 times, k3, (si 1, k3) to last st, ki. Row 62: P4, (si 1, p3) 4 times, p3, (si 1, P3) 5 times, p3, (si 1, p3) to last st, pi. Row 63: K2, (si 1, k3) 4 times, si 1, k2, (si 1, k3) 5 times, si 1, k2, (si 1, k3) to last 3 sts, si 1, k2.

Row 64: P2, (si 1, P3) 4 times, si 1, p2, (si 1, p3) 5 times, si 1, p2, (si 1, P3) to last 3 sts, si 1, p2. Rows 65 & 67: Knit.

Row 69: K4, (si 1, k3) 3 times, si 1, ki, k2tog, (k3, si 1) 5 times, k3, k2tog tbl, ki, (si 1, k3) to last st, ki (61 sts).

Row 70: P4, (si 1, P3) 4 times, p2, (si 1, P3) 5 times, p2, (si 1, p3) 4 times, pi. Row 71: K2, (si 1, k3) 4 times, si 1, ki, (si 1, k3) 5 times, si 1, ki, (si 1, k3) to last 3 sts, si 1, k2.

Row 72: P2, (si 1, P3) 4 times, si 1, pi, (si 1, P3) 5 times, si 1, pi, (si 1, p3) to last 3 sts, si 1, p2. Rows 73 & 75: Knit.

Row 77: K4, (si 1, k3) 4 times, k2, (si 1, k3) 5 times, k2, (si 1, k3) to last st, ki. Row 78: P4, (si 1, P3) 4 times, p2, (si 1, p3) 5 times, p2, (si 1, p3) to last st, pi. Row 79: As row 71.

Row 80: P2tog, (si i, P3) 4 times, si 1, pi, (si 1, P3) 5 times, si 1, pi, (si 1, P3) to last 3 sts, si 1, p2 (60 sts). Break off all yarns except yarn A, then work the heel using yarn A only.

HEEL-FIRST SIDE

On following rows, work each wrap bar and slip stitch together as one.

Row 17: K9 and turn.

Row 19: K10 and turn.

Row 21: K11 and turn.

Row 23: K12 and turn.

Continue the slip-stitch pattern up the leg section. Here, row 15 is being worked using yarn D, while stitches of yarn C from the previous row are slipped.

On the following WS row, the stitches that were slipped on row 15 are slipped once again. Take care to slip the correct stitches so that the Fair Isle pattern emerges correctly.

Continue the slip-stitch pattern up the leg section. Here, row 15 is being worked using yarn D, while stitches of yarn C from the previous row are slipped.

On the following WS row, the stitches that were slipped on row 15 are slipped once again. Take care to slip the correct stitches so that the Fair Isle pattern emerges correctly.

Stripy Fair Isle socks see also

Wrap stitch, pages 97-99 (steps 3-8)

Row 25: K13 and turn. Row 27: K14 and turn. Row 29: K15 and turn. Row 31: Knit all sts.

HEEL-SECOND SIDE

On following rows, work each wrap bar and slip stitch together as one.

Row 17: P9 and turn.

Row 19: P10 and turn.

Row 21: P11 and turn.

Row 23: P12 and turn.

Row 25: P13 and turn.

Row 27: P14 and turn.

Row 29: P15 and turn.

Row 31: Purl all sts.

Without breaking off yarn A, rejoin yarn B. FOOT

Row 2: Purl. Rejoin yarn C.

Row 3: Using yarn C, k4, (si 1, k3) 4 times, k2, (si 1, k3) 5 times, k2, (si 1, k3) 4 times. Row 4: P3, (si 1, P3) 4 times, p2, (si 1, P3) 5 times, p2, (si 1, P3) 4 times, pi. Rejoin yarn D.

Row 5: Using yarn D, k2, (si 1, k3) 4 times, si 1, ki, (si 1, k3) 5 times, si 1, ki, (si 1, k3)

Row 6: Pi, (si 1, p3) 4 times, si 1, pi, (si 1, p3)

5 times, si 1, pi, (si 1, P3) 4 times, si 1, p2. Row 7: Using yarn A, knit.

Continue in pattern as set by these 8 rows until foot measures 18cm (7m) from end of heel, ending after a repeat of row 8. Break off all colours except yarn A.

Row 1 (RS): K12, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, k24, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, knit to end (56 sts).

See step 6

Row 2 & all unspecified WS rows: Purl. Row 3: Knit.

Row 5: K11, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, k22, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, knit to end (52 sts). Row 7: Knit.

Row 9: K10, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, k20, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, knit to end (48 sts). Row 11: K9, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, ki8, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, knit to end (44 sts).

Row 13: K8, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, ki6, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, knit to end (40 sts).

Row 14: P7, p2tog tbl, p2, p2tog, pi4, p2tog tbl, p2, p2tog, purl to end (36 sts).

Row 15: K6, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, ki2, k2tog, k2, k2tog tbl, knit to end (32 sts).

ROW 16: P5, p2tOg tbl, p2, p2tOg, piO, p2tOg tbl, p2, p2tog, purl to end (28 sts).

Cast off remaining sts knitwise. See step 7

FINISHING

Sew in any loose ends to WS on all pieces, then block and steam gently. Fold the sock lengthways RS together and sew the back seam using a fine backstitch. Turn RS out and fold so that the seam is at centre back. Oversew the toe seam on the RS.

See step 8

Decrease the number of stitches at the start of the toe section by working two stitches together using k2tog or k2tog tbl and yarn A.

When you have finished working the toe, cast off the remaining stitches knitwise.

After you have sewn the back seam using a fine backstitch, turn the sock RS out and oversew the toe seam. Keep the seam fine for a comfortable fit.

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