How To Make An Inset Pocket

Inset pockets have a less noticeable appearance than patch pockets, as the front of the pocket is actually your knit garment. You knit the back of the pocket, or the lining, separately and put it on a stitch holder ahead of time; then you incorporate it when knitting the face of the garment that contains the pocket. You should follow your pattern's instructions for size and placement of an inset pocket. The following steps illustrate how to create an inset pocket.

1 Knit the pocket lining(s) to the size indicated in your pattern's instructions. Instead of binding off the stitches, put them on a stitch holder. Steam the lining to block it.

Note: Pocket linings are usually knit in stockinette stitch so that they lie flat. You can knit a pocket lining in the same color as the overall piece, or, if you prefer, you can knit the lining in an accent color.

2 On the piece of the garment that will hold the pocket, work across the row on the RS to where the pocket will be placed. Bind off the same number of stitches as used to knit your pocket lining and work to the end of the row.

3 On the following row (WS), work across to the bound-off stitches. Hold your pocket lining so that the WS is facing you. (The RS of the lining will be facing the WS of the main garment piece.) Work across the lining stitches from the holder.

Note: You may have to slip your lining stitches from the holder to a needle if the stitch holder feels awkward or is not facing the right direction for you to work from it.

4 On the next row (RS), work across as usual and continue on that piece of the garment as established.

5 At the finishing stage of your garment, pin the bottom and sides of the pocket lining in place and stitch to attach (see "How to Attach a Patch Pocket" on the previous page).

6 Steam the sewn-in lining to flatten it, taking care not to press, which would bring the outline of the lining to the front of your work.

Note: You can also make an inset pocket by putting the stitches where the pocket is to be placed onto a holder after working across them on the RS. Then you continue across the row to the end and place the lining. At the finishing stage, you can then work from the held stitches to create an edging, such as ribbing, seed stitch, or garter stitch.

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