Neck Pullover Vest Neckband

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You work this edging in rounds, using a short circular needle or double-pointed needles one size smaller than the needles used for the vest body.

1 Sew both shoulder seams and steam, if yarn's care instructions allow. (For information on seams, see pages 163 and 253-256.)

2 With RS facing, pick up and k sts evenly down left front neck to v-neck center, k the center st from holder, and mark it with a split-ring marker or scrap yarn, pick up and k same number of sts up right front neck to shoulder seam as picked up for left front neck, and k across the back neck sts from holder.

2 Place marker for beg of rnd, join rnd, and work in chosen edging, shaping center v-neck as foll.

4 Rnd 1: Work patt to within 2 sts of center st, k2tog, k center st, ssk, work in patt to end of rnd.

5 Rnd 2: Work edging patt without shaping.

6 Rep rnds 1 and 2 to desired length, ending with rnd 2.

7 BO in patt, working the dec at center v-neck as in previous rnds.

8 Go to "Make Armbands: All Vests," page 148. Cardigan Vest Neckband and Button Bands

You work this edging on a long circular needle so you can comfortably pick up stitches all the way around the fronts and neck. Even though it's on a circular needle, you work back and forth in rows.

1 Sew both shoulder seams and steam, if yarn's care instructions allow. (For information on seams, see pages 163 and 253-256.)

2 Place markers (pm) for buttons (on left front for females and right front for males): Pm h inch up from hem, pm h inch down from beg neck shaping, and place 3 or 5 more markers, evenly spaced, between these two.

3 With RS facing and beg at right front hem, use long circ needle one size smaller than needles used for the vest body to pick up and k sts evenly up right front to shoulder seam, k across the back neck sts from holder, and pick up and k the same number of sts down left front to hem as picked up for right front.

4 Work in edging of your choice for one row.

5 Next row: Work in edging patt and work buttonholes opposite markers this row. (See pages 260-261 for buttonhole techniques.)

6 Cont in patt to desired length.

8 Go to "Make Armbands: All Vests," page 148.

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MAKE ARMBANDS: ALL VESTS

You work the armband edging using a circular needle so as to be able to comfortably pick up stitches all the way around the armhole. You work it back and forth in rows.

1 With RS facing, use a circular needle one size smaller than the needles used for the vest body to pick up and knit sts evenly up the left front armhole to shoulder seam and then the same number of sts down left back armhole to end.

2 Work in chosen edging patt to desired length.

4 Rep for right armband, except start picking up sts on the back.

5 Go to "Finish: All Vests," below.

FINISH: ALL VESTS

1 Weave in rem loose ends.

2 Before sewing side seams, lightly steam shoulder seams to neaten, if yarn's care instructions allow.

3 Sew side seams, including armband edges. (For information on seams, see pages 163 and 253-256.)

4 Lightly steam side seams to neaten, taking care not to mash or stretch out ribbings.

5 For cardigan, sew buttons opposite buttonholes. Reinforce buttonholes, if necessary. (See page 261 for instructions.)

I don't want a thick ribbing around the edges of my vest. If I leave it raw, it looks sloppy. Is there something I can do to neaten it?

Yes, you can work a quick knit row around these edges:

1 Pick up stitches around the edge that you want to work as instructed on the previous pages.

Note: For buttonholes, follow instructions on page 147 to place markers. Work buttonholes opposite markers this first row and then knit 1 more row before proceeding to step 3.

3 Bind off knitwise.

The vest is such an adaptable garment that you can alter the master pattern in a few simple ways to make it into something entirely different than the classic version. You can do any number of things: add a stripe or two across the chest or across the bottom ribbing, or add cables, remembering to increase the number of stitches to account for the pulling. But a really beautiful tweed yarn may be all you need. Here are a just a few more suggestions.

NO-EDGING VEST

If you work your vest neatly in a stitch pattern that lies flat, you can get away with omitting the edgings. This vest is knit in a garter stitch stripe pattern that consists of six rows of stockinette stitch alternated with eight rows of garter stitch. If you're knitting a cardigan like the one shown, one change you will have to make to the master pattern is to cast on about an extra 'A inch worth of stitches to each front piece. This allows the front pieces to overlap for buttoning, as the buttonholes are worked directly into the front piece rather than on a knit-in band. Before you work the front piece that will have the buttonholes, simply place markers for buttons on the opposite front piece and work the buttonholes 2 or 3 stitches in from the front vertical edge, opposite the markers.

COLORFUL VEST

In addition to working the master pattern in a compatible stitch pattern, you can work it in a color pattern that works with your stitch count. This easy vest is knit in several colors but uses only two colors per piece. To work this vertical stripe pattern, simply knit 2 stitches in the first color, then 2 stitches in the second color. Repeat this across the row, turn, and work the same pattern in purl stitches. You need to have a stitch count that is a multiple of 4 stitches to work it this way. Knitting in two colors in an easy repeat like this is also a great way to practice holding one color in the left hand and one color in the right hand.

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TURTLENECK TOP

You can easily make a round-neck vest into an elegant sleeveless turtle-neck top. The only variation to the master pattern is to work the neckband for about 8 to 10 inches for a folded turtleneck or 4 to 5 inches for a mock turtleneck. It's that simple.

CROPPED VEST

If you work the body of the vest—the part that comes before the armhole shaping—a few or several inches shorter than the master pattern indicates, you will have a cropped vest. This would make an excellent layer over a dress, t-shirt, or billowy blouse. The cardigan and the pullover work equally well cropped. This style requires less yarn than the master pattern calls for, so it's a good way to make a sweater without a big investment in yarn.

LONG VEST

If you work the body below the armhole shaping several inches longer than the master pattern specifies, you will end up with a tunic. Remember that you need quite a bit more yarn for this than specified in the master pattern, depending on how many inches are added. Measure from the underarm down to determine the length desired. You may also want to work a longer edging at the hem and sew the side seams, beginning above the edging, to form side slits for a more easy fit.

Here is a project that uses the master pattern as a starting point to produce something new. Adding a few inches to the body length, tapering the sides, and changing the neck shaping transform the classic vest into a flattering women's tunic. The instructions here describe how to make it with either a straight or tapered body.

Specifications

SIZES

Finished chest measurements: 36 (38, 40, 44, 48, 52) inches

MATERIALS

Desired yarn, in the amount specified in Table 43

1 pair straight needles in size needed to obtain gauge

Circular needle 1 size smaller than needles used for vest body to work edgings

1 large stitch holder

Row counter

Tapestry needle

5 buttons

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2'% (2%, 3, 3%, 4, 4%)" 6% (7, 7'%, 7%, 7%, 8)" /

Neck depth

Table 43. Approximate Yardage for Adult Tunic

Gauge (in

Stockinette

Approximate

Yardage

2 sts/in.

400-700 yd.

3 sts/in.

600-950 yd.

4 sts/in.

750-1,250 yd.

5 sts/in.

850-1,350 yd.

6 sts/in.

950-1,600 yd.

Left front

NOTES ON THE SAMPLE

The tunic is knit in elann.com Peruvian Collection Highland Wool (Colors #1068 and #0306, 100% wool, 109 yd./50g ball, 5 sts per inch). It uses the tapered shaping and seed stitch edging. The neckband was worked in seed stitch for 1 inch. The buttons were placed with one button V2 inch down from neck, another button 12 inches up from hem, and three more evenly spaced between those two. The armbands were knit in seed stitch for 3A inch.

How to Make the Tunic

MAKE TUNIC BACK

You have two options for the tunic back: the straight style or the tapered style. The straight style is easiest—it's really just like the master pattern, but longer below the armhole. The tapered style produces an a-line shape and is more feminine.

Straight Tunic Back

1 CO and work desired edging as for vest back on pages 138-139.

Note: Remember that ribbing will pull the hem in. This may not be a desirable look for the edging. Try an edging that lays flat.

2 Work body in St st without shaping until back measures 20 (20, 21, 21, 22, 22) inches from CO edge.

3 Shape armholes and shoulders and finish back as for vest back on pages 138-139.

4 Go to the appropriate directions under "Make Tunic Front," page 154.

Tapered Tunic Back

1 CO sts for your size and gauge according to Table 44.

Note: If you want to work an edging that requires a different number of sts than that specified for your size and gauge in Table 44, you can cast on 1 or 2 fewer sts and work the edging to one row before the end. Increase back to the stitch count specified in Table 44 on the last edging row.

Table 44. Cast On for Tapered Tunic Back

Note: If you want to work an edging that requires a different number of sts than that specified for your size and gauge in Table 44, you can cast on 1 or 2 fewer sts and work the edging to one row before the end. Increase back to the stitch count specified in Table 44 on the last edging row.

Table 44. Cast On for Tapered Tunic Back

Gauge

No. of Sts to CO

2 sts/in.

42 (44, 46, 50, 54, 58) sts

3 sts/in.

64 (67, 70, 76, 82, 88) sts

4 sts/in.

84 (88, 92, 100, 108, 116) sts

5 sts/in.

106 (111, 116, 126, 136, 146) sts

6 sts/in.

126 (132, 138, 150, 162, 174) sts

2 Choose one of the edgings from pages 127-129 and work for the desired length, ending with a WS row.

Note: Remember that ribbing will pull the hem in. This may not be a desirable look for the tunic. Try an edging that lays flat. The sample shown uses seed st for the edging, and the edging is worked for V4 inches.

3 If your edging is shorter than 4 inches, beg with a knit row, work in St st until back measures 4 inches from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

4 Shape sides by dec 1 st each end on specified rows the number of times indicated for your size and gauge in Table 45.

Note: Refer to your gauge swatch to determine your row gauge. If the row gauge you are achieving is not listed for your stitch gauge, choose the closest one for your stitch gauge. Don't use the instructions for any other stitch gauge, even if the row gauge matches yours, or the math will be off.

I Table 45. Tapered Tunic Back: Side Shaping 1

Stitch Gauge

Row Gauge

Dec 1 St Each End Every

2 sts/in.

2V2 rows/in.

13th (13th, 14th, 14th, 15th, 15th) row, 3 times

2 sts/in.

3 rows/in.

16th (16th, 17th, 17th, 18th, 18th) row, 3 times

3 sts/in.

4 rows/in.

12th (12th, 13th, 13th, 14th, 14th) row, 5 times

3 sts/in.

4V2 rows/in.

14th (14th, 15th, 15th, 16th, 16th) row, 5 times

4 sts/in.

5 rows/in.

13th (13th, 14th, 14th, 15th, 15th) row, 6 times

4 sts/in.

5V2 rows/in.

14th (14th, 15th, 15th, 16th, 16th) row, 6 times

5 sts/in.

6 rows/in.

12th (12th, 13th, 13th, 13th, 13th) row, 8 times

5 sts/in.

7 rows/in.

14th (14th, 15th, 15th, 16th, 16th) row, 8 times

6 sts/in.

7V2 rows/in.

13th (13th, 14th, 14th, 15th, 15th) row, 9 times

6 sts/in.

8 rows/in.

14th (14th, 15th, 15th, 16th, 16th) row, 9 times

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You should have rem the number of sts indicated for your size and gauge in Table 46.

5 Cont without further shaping until back measures 20 (20, 21, 21, 22, 22) inches from CO edge.

6 Shape armholes and shoulders and finish back as for vest back on pages 138-139.

7 Go to the appropriate directions under "Make Tunic Front," below.

Table 46. Tapered Tunic Back:

Stitches Remaining After Side Shaping

Gauge

No. of Sts After Shaping Sides

2 sts/in.

36 (38, 40, 44, 48, 52) sts

3 sts/in.

54 (57, 60, 66, 72, 78) sts

4 sts/in.

72 (76, 80, 88, 96, 104) sts

5 sts/in.

90 (95, 100, 110, 120, 130) sts

6 sts/in.

108 (114, 120, 132, 144, 156) sts

MAKE TUNIC FRONT

The directions here are for a cardigan tunic with a round neck, in both the straight and tapered styles. Straight Tunic: Left Front

1 CO as for adult cardigan left front on page 144 and work desired edging as for tunic back.

2 Work body in St st without shaping until left front measures 20 (20, 21, 21, 22, 22) inches from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

3 Shape armholes as for adult cardigan left front on pages 144-145.

4 AT THE SAME TIME, when armhole measures 5 (5, 5V2, 6V2, 772, 8V2) inches, beg neck shaping on next WS row: Beg this row (neck edge), BO the number of sts indicated for your gauge in Table 47.

1 Table 47. Tunic Left Front: Begin Neck Shaping 1

Gauge

No. of Sts to BO Beg Next WS Row

2 sts/in.

4 sts

3 sts/in.

6 sts

4 sts/in.

8 sts

5 sts/in.

10 sts

6 sts/in.

12 sts

0 Dec 1 st at neck edge every row the number of times indicated for your size and gauge in Table 48.

© Dec 1 st at neck edge every other row the number of times indicated for your size and gauge in Table 49.

Note: If the number of times indicated for your size and gauge is 0, skip ahead to step 7.

  • Work without further neck shaping until front measures same as back to beg shoulder shaping, ending with a WS row. After neck and armhole shaping, you should have rem the number of sts indicated for your size and gauge in Table 50.
  • Shape and finish shoulder as for adult cardigan left front on page 145.

Q Go to "All Tunics: Right Front" page 157.

I Table 48. Ilinic Left Front: Neck Shaping

Gauge

No. of Times to Dec 1 Stat Neck Edge Every Row

2 sts/in.

2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) times

3 sts/in.

2 (2, 4, 4, 5, 5) times

4 sts/in.

4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 6) times

5 sts/in.

4 (4, 5, 7, 7, 8) times

6 sts/in.

4 (5, 7, 8, 8, 10) times

Table 50. Tunic Left Front: Shoulder Stitches Remaining After Neck and Armhole Shaping

Gauge

No. of Sts After Shaping Armhole and Neck

2 sts/in.

5 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts

3 sts/in.

7 (8, 9, 10, 12, 13) sts

4 sts/in.

9 (10, 12, 14, 16, 18) sts

5 sts/in.

12 (13, 15, 17, 20, 23) sts

6 sts/in.

14 (15, 18, 21, 24, 27) sts

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Vests

I Table 49. Hi nie Left Front: Finish Neck Shaping 1

Gauge

No. of Times to Dec 1 Stat Neck Edge Every Other Row

2 sts/in.

1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 3) times

3 sts/in.

2 (2, 1, 1, 1, 1) times

4 sts/in.

All sizes: 2 times

5 sts/in.

3 (3, 3, 2, 2, 2) times

6 sts/in.

4 (4, 3, 3, 3, 2) times

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